2005 E320 CDI Engine Mounts
04-01-2013, 12:45 PM
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2005 E320 CDI
2005 E320 CDI Engine Mounts
Guys, I need some verification info.
The car is 2005 E320 CDI with 114,000 miles on it. I maintain and repair myself. The car has been wonderful, but as we all know it needs attention.
So, time for engine mount replacement.
I got the parts from parts.com in original MB boxes. The parts number on the boxes are
A 211 240 3 017
A 211 240 0 417
Could please somebody verify if these are the correct part numbers? They differ from what I have as info, but part numbers change, so my info may be obsolete.
Any help would be appreciated. Also when I am done I will post detailed information on the process.
The car is 2005 E320 CDI with 114,000 miles on it. I maintain and repair myself. The car has been wonderful, but as we all know it needs attention.
So, time for engine mount replacement.
I got the parts from parts.com in original MB boxes. The parts number on the boxes are
A 211 240 3 017
A 211 240 0 417
Could please somebody verify if these are the correct part numbers? They differ from what I have as info, but part numbers change, so my info may be obsolete.
Any help would be appreciated. Also when I am done I will post detailed information on the process.
The following users liked this post:
tofuji (10-31-2017)
04-01-2013, 01:36 PM
#2
Hi
I would suggest you check with the dealer to make sure. What are the symptoms on the CDI of your mounts needing replacement? On my CDI I have a very slight shake at idle but after all it's a diesel!
I would suggest you check with the dealer to make sure. What are the symptoms on the CDI of your mounts needing replacement? On my CDI I have a very slight shake at idle but after all it's a diesel!
04-01-2013, 02:29 PM
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2005 E320 CDI
If I don't get an answer from the group I will probably go that way. The symptoms are that gradually, over the last couple of years the vibrations in the body have become noticeable. With new engine mounts the vibrations are almost imperceptible. When the situation deteriorates gradually, one may not notice because it is very slow and you get used to it. With 113 K miles on the car,I am sure it is time. This is very heavy engine with huge torque and a lot of vibrations. They also look pretty bad.
04-01-2013, 05:10 PM
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2015 E 250, 1999 BMW M Roadster, 1939 International Harvester, 2023 GLC
this is interesting. I have 162,000 on my 05 CDI. I have not done the motor mounts. I really do not feel any unusual vibration but like you mentioned I may just not notice it?
Will you change your self or have a shop change them.
Have you experience a broken from spring yet? The passenger side broke sitting in my garage around 125k, so I have two new front springs
Will you change your self or have a shop change them.
Have you experience a broken from spring yet? The passenger side broke sitting in my garage around 125k, so I have two new front springs
04-01-2013, 05:35 PM
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2005 E320 CDI
this is interesting. I have 162,000 on my 05 CDI. I have not done the motor mounts. I really do not feel any unusual vibration but like you mentioned I may just not notice it?
Will you change your self or have a shop change them.
Have you experience a broken from spring yet? The passenger side broke sitting in my garage around 125k, so I have two new front springs
Will you change your self or have a shop change them.
Have you experience a broken from spring yet? The passenger side broke sitting in my garage around 125k, so I have two new front springs
) Looked at the service DVD and it really doesn't seem to be a big deal if you follow the procedure. I looked for step by step description from someone who has done it, but couldn't find one. So if I do it I will post one.Have not had any issues with springs, but the car has never been heavily loaded or on bad roads. Shocks is next, sometimes in the fall. No problems so far, but with this mileage it is about time (better said - overdue).
04-02-2013, 01:37 PM
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2005 E320 CDI
Thanks to konigstiger for the PM. It has been confirmed, the above part numbers are correct and are cross referenced with the manufacturer. I am starting the project tonight. Wish me luck and I will hopefully post detailed instructions with pictures.
04-02-2013, 02:31 PM
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2015 E 250, 1999 BMW M Roadster, 1939 International Harvester, 2023 GLC
Next time I go see my indy service guy I will have him take a look at my mounts.
The sping breaking was odd as all my driving is highway and I drive this car very mello. I do not have a curb going into by drive or any other good reason for a spring to break. In all the cars I have owned this has never happend. This repair was resonable in cost as I also did some other suspension parts at the same time. I stuck with OEM springs. Must be that heavy cast iron engine block
let me know how the car feels after the new mounts are in ?
The sping breaking was odd as all my driving is highway and I drive this car very mello. I do not have a curb going into by drive or any other good reason for a spring to break. In all the cars I have owned this has never happend. This repair was resonable in cost as I also did some other suspension parts at the same time. I stuck with OEM springs. Must be that heavy cast iron engine block
let me know how the car feels after the new mounts are in ?
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04-03-2013, 01:34 AM
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E320CDI, CLK55, and a Smart
Will e55 or e63 engine mounts work as well? I'm wondering which ones are more heavy duty. Cdi or amg? Cdi engines have more shake at idle but amg have more torque.
04-03-2013, 09:14 AM
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04 e320 4matic wagon
Hi everyone,
I am considering buying a diesel, and i think i read somewhere that the better years would be 05 and 06, if anyone has any input would be appreciated,have had a jetta diesel 01 and loved it, lost it in divorce so want to get back to diesel. also would appreciate any input on things to look for when shopping for car.
thanks
I am considering buying a diesel, and i think i read somewhere that the better years would be 05 and 06, if anyone has any input would be appreciated,have had a jetta diesel 01 and loved it, lost it in divorce so want to get back to diesel. also would appreciate any input on things to look for when shopping for car.
thanks
04-03-2013, 11:57 AM
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2005 E320 CDI
Hi everyone,
I am considering buying a diesel, and i think i read somewhere that the better years would be 05 and 06, if anyone has any input would be appreciated,have had a jetta diesel 01 and loved it, lost it in divorce so want to get back to diesel. also would appreciate any input on things to look for when shopping for car.
thanks
I am considering buying a diesel, and i think i read somewhere that the better years would be 05 and 06, if anyone has any input would be appreciated,have had a jetta diesel 01 and loved it, lost it in divorce so want to get back to diesel. also would appreciate any input on things to look for when shopping for car.
thanks
These cars could be temperamental and they need attention. 
(This is a joke of course, but as every joke it has some truth to it.)
04-09-2013, 10:20 AM
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2005 E320 CDI
On Friday, as I intended, I replaced the engine mounts on my 2005 E 320 CDI with 113 K miles on it. It took me about 6 hours to do it in my garage, without lift or other fancy equipment. I did not remove steering rack, air filter assembly or anything else. It is much easier if you have someone to help you. Less boring, sharing the beer is nice and a second pair of hands and eyes helps.
My very good independent quoted me $180 for labor. The parts are OEM MB from parts.com for $260 (shipping included). I also have the official MB service DVD which guided me initially. I am cheap, but I am not that cheap, so I decided to let my mechanic do it. Then I decided to tackle the challenge, just for the sake of it.
Here is a step bystep description of what was done, together with PITA code, ranging from 1 to 10 with 1 being the lowest.
1. Lift the car on stands. You will have some workto do under it. Two in the front is mandatory, but four are better and more convenient. Lift it high enough, so you could work relatively comfortably under the car. I did it with two.
2. Remove all 3 soundproof panels under the car.
3. Open the hood and remove the top engine covers.
4. Remove the right (passenger side) front wheel. You will need as much space as possible to work there. Removing the left frontwheel is optional. I don’t think it makes a difference.
5. Unbolt the two mount bolts from theundercarriage – PITA 2. Wrench size 13 mm, they are easily removed with socket and extension.
6. Lift the engine with your floor jack. Initially you need to lift it no more than 1-1/2 inch. PITA – 5. Good floor jack is necessary in this step. Be careful there! Slide the jack under the front center of the car. Find the imaginable lateral axis below the engine that connects the two engine mounts. That is where the engine is balanced and where you should lift it. The point is about the middle of the oil pan, 2-3 inches ahead of the drain plug. Put 1 or 2 square pieces of wood on the jack to distribute the pressure surface on the oil pan as evenly as possible. Start lifting SLOWLY and CAREFULLY. Thatis where the second guy comes into play. While one is lifting, the second is watching under the car the process. You must not allow any damage or deformation on the oil pan.
7. Time to remove the rear transmission mount from under the car. PITA – 3. Two bolts 16mm wrench connect the mount to the transmission. Two bolts 13 mm wrench connect it to the chassis. All of them are easily removed. Slide out the rear transmission mount and install the new one.
8. Unbolt the top bolt of the left engine mountwith wrench 16 mm. PITA – 4. This is done from the top of the engine with regular box wrench. Slide the engine mount out. Insert the new engine mount in place and put in place the bolt from the bottom of the chassis. Do not tighten it yet. Later you will need to adjust the mount and insert the top bolt. It is easier to work if you can move a little the mount around.
9. Remove the right mount. PITA – 9. This is the most interesting part where you likely will spend most of your time. MB DVD states that the mount cannot be taken out by itself. You must first detach the right engine support from the crankcase to which the top of the mount is attached and then unbolt the mount itself. That is correct. There is not enough space there to work comfortably. The top right screw of the console is the worst one. It is almost invisible and inaccessible. The console is bolted to the engine block with four screws external torx 12. I was able to take out the top right screw with long torx socket and ratchet with small head. The other bolts are relatively easy to unscrew from under the car.
10. When the support is detached, you can rotate the entire assembly in such a way that you can easily unscrew the top bolt from the mount. You do not have to take the entire assembly out. You just need to access the top screw to remove it. This is also done from under the car. Slide the freed right mount out, insert the new one, match the notch in the console to the one in the mount and put the top screw back. If you do not have enough gap to remove the old mount, lift the engine a little bit. Do not overdo it. Put the support back in place and tighten the bolts back. It sounds easy but the place is tight, so patience and persistence is important.
11. Lower the engine a little bit and put the bottom screw of the right mount back in place. Do not tighten yet.
12. Lower the engine a little more. Go back to the left mount, match the notch to the mount and put the top bolt. Do not tighten yet.
13. SLOWLY lower the engine. Watch it to go back in place with the mounts properly positioned.
14. When you are sure everything is seated properly, mounts are in place in their notches, without being squeezed or deformed, andthe engine is sitting securely and solidly in place, go ahead and tighten securely the bottom and top bolts.
Put all the covers back and you are done.
My old mounts were all fried and cracked. They were about ¾ inch lower than the new mounts and now the engine sits a little bit higher.There are definitely less vibrations and the engine runs smoother than before. If you have questions, please ask. It was well worth the experience but if youare doing it to save money, in my case $180, it is probably not worth it. Ifyou have to pay dealer prices… well it is up to you.
I am also attaching PDF file for your convenience.
My very good independent quoted me $180 for labor. The parts are OEM MB from parts.com for $260 (shipping included). I also have the official MB service DVD which guided me initially. I am cheap, but I am not that cheap, so I decided to let my mechanic do it. Then I decided to tackle the challenge, just for the sake of it.
Here is a step bystep description of what was done, together with PITA code, ranging from 1 to 10 with 1 being the lowest.
1. Lift the car on stands. You will have some workto do under it. Two in the front is mandatory, but four are better and more convenient. Lift it high enough, so you could work relatively comfortably under the car. I did it with two.
2. Remove all 3 soundproof panels under the car.
3. Open the hood and remove the top engine covers.
4. Remove the right (passenger side) front wheel. You will need as much space as possible to work there. Removing the left frontwheel is optional. I don’t think it makes a difference.
5. Unbolt the two mount bolts from theundercarriage – PITA 2. Wrench size 13 mm, they are easily removed with socket and extension.
6. Lift the engine with your floor jack. Initially you need to lift it no more than 1-1/2 inch. PITA – 5. Good floor jack is necessary in this step. Be careful there! Slide the jack under the front center of the car. Find the imaginable lateral axis below the engine that connects the two engine mounts. That is where the engine is balanced and where you should lift it. The point is about the middle of the oil pan, 2-3 inches ahead of the drain plug. Put 1 or 2 square pieces of wood on the jack to distribute the pressure surface on the oil pan as evenly as possible. Start lifting SLOWLY and CAREFULLY. Thatis where the second guy comes into play. While one is lifting, the second is watching under the car the process. You must not allow any damage or deformation on the oil pan.
7. Time to remove the rear transmission mount from under the car. PITA – 3. Two bolts 16mm wrench connect the mount to the transmission. Two bolts 13 mm wrench connect it to the chassis. All of them are easily removed. Slide out the rear transmission mount and install the new one.
8. Unbolt the top bolt of the left engine mountwith wrench 16 mm. PITA – 4. This is done from the top of the engine with regular box wrench. Slide the engine mount out. Insert the new engine mount in place and put in place the bolt from the bottom of the chassis. Do not tighten it yet. Later you will need to adjust the mount and insert the top bolt. It is easier to work if you can move a little the mount around.
9. Remove the right mount. PITA – 9. This is the most interesting part where you likely will spend most of your time. MB DVD states that the mount cannot be taken out by itself. You must first detach the right engine support from the crankcase to which the top of the mount is attached and then unbolt the mount itself. That is correct. There is not enough space there to work comfortably. The top right screw of the console is the worst one. It is almost invisible and inaccessible. The console is bolted to the engine block with four screws external torx 12. I was able to take out the top right screw with long torx socket and ratchet with small head. The other bolts are relatively easy to unscrew from under the car.
10. When the support is detached, you can rotate the entire assembly in such a way that you can easily unscrew the top bolt from the mount. You do not have to take the entire assembly out. You just need to access the top screw to remove it. This is also done from under the car. Slide the freed right mount out, insert the new one, match the notch in the console to the one in the mount and put the top screw back. If you do not have enough gap to remove the old mount, lift the engine a little bit. Do not overdo it. Put the support back in place and tighten the bolts back. It sounds easy but the place is tight, so patience and persistence is important.
11. Lower the engine a little bit and put the bottom screw of the right mount back in place. Do not tighten yet.
12. Lower the engine a little more. Go back to the left mount, match the notch to the mount and put the top bolt. Do not tighten yet.
13. SLOWLY lower the engine. Watch it to go back in place with the mounts properly positioned.
14. When you are sure everything is seated properly, mounts are in place in their notches, without being squeezed or deformed, andthe engine is sitting securely and solidly in place, go ahead and tighten securely the bottom and top bolts.
Put all the covers back and you are done.
My old mounts were all fried and cracked. They were about ¾ inch lower than the new mounts and now the engine sits a little bit higher.There are definitely less vibrations and the engine runs smoother than before. If you have questions, please ask. It was well worth the experience but if youare doing it to save money, in my case $180, it is probably not worth it. Ifyou have to pay dealer prices… well it is up to you.
I am also attaching PDF file for your convenience.
Last edited by Morde5; 04-09-2013 at 11:22 AM.
04-12-2013, 11:24 PM
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2012 W212 | 2016 W205
Hi everyone,
I am considering buying a diesel, and i think i read somewhere that the better years would be 05 and 06, if anyone has any input would be appreciated,have had a jetta diesel 01 and loved it, lost it in divorce so want to get back to diesel. also would appreciate any input on things to look for when shopping for car.
thanks
I am considering buying a diesel, and i think i read somewhere that the better years would be 05 and 06, if anyone has any input would be appreciated,have had a jetta diesel 01 and loved it, lost it in divorce so want to get back to diesel. also would appreciate any input on things to look for when shopping for car.
thanks
Only thing id recommend checking for is leaking injectors and as soon as you see one, get it resealed or replaced. The longer you leave it the harder they are to remove.
Had the head off mine a few months ago and the mechanic was shocked, there was absolutely no wear and tear on any of the interior components, it looked new in there!
Great engine! Good luck!
04-13-2013, 12:25 AM
#14
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2005 E320 CDI
I have an 04 E270CDI and I love it. The car has just done over 340,000kms and the engine is still in fantastic shape and hasn't really cost us that much to maintain over the years!
Only thing id recommend checking for is leaking injectors and as soon as you see one, get it resealed or replaced. The longer you leave it the harder they are to remove.
Had the head off mine a few months ago and the mechanic was shocked, there was absolutely no wear and tear on any of the interior components, it looked new in there!
Great engine! Good luck!
Only thing id recommend checking for is leaking injectors and as soon as you see one, get it resealed or replaced. The longer you leave it the harder they are to remove.
Had the head off mine a few months ago and the mechanic was shocked, there was absolutely no wear and tear on any of the interior components, it looked new in there!
Great engine! Good luck!
04-13-2013, 12:43 AM
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2012 W212 | 2016 W205
Could you please elaborate about the specs of this engine? Power? Torque? MPG or L/100 km? We here in the US are very diesel deprived and what you guys have access to we can only dream of. Every time I go to Europe, I salivate over these G SUVs. Very basic, 5 cyl. 2.5 L engine, nothing fancy but they will outlast you. If I could put my hands on one of these with manual. Dream coming true. Here the G class is over $100K US with some pointless AMG engine. Oh well, ... the future
Engine Location Front
Configuration In-line
Engine Size (cc) 2685
Cam Double Overhead Cam
Engine Cycle 4 Stroke
Engine Type Piston
Engine Number 647961 30 ######
Cylinders 5
Valves per Cylinder 4
Compression Ratio 18
Power 130kW @ 4200rpm
Torque 425Nm @ 2000-2000rpm
Acceleration 0-100Km/h (secs) 9.2
Induction System Turbo
Fuel Type Diesel
Fuel Tank Capacity (litres) 65
Fuel Delivery Direct Injection
Method of Delivery Electronic
Fuel Urban (l/100km) 10.0
Carbon Dioxide (g/km) 188
Fuel Extra Urban (l/100km) 5.4
Fuel Combined (l/100km) 7.1
10-31-2017, 07:34 PM
#16
Thanks for this great post...it shave five hours off the joy (well, almost). I would never have thought of taking the motor mount off in one piece and dividing it in that small space. It worked like a charm!!
I am a retired Pastor (almost 80 yrs old) in Hawaii, and a former diesel truck driver/owner/heavy duty mechanic...and still like maintaining my Mercedes (2).
Aloha, (Rev. Dr,) Tom Fujita, Aiea, HI 96701
I am a retired Pastor (almost 80 yrs old) in Hawaii, and a former diesel truck driver/owner/heavy duty mechanic...and still like maintaining my Mercedes (2).
Aloha, (Rev. Dr,) Tom Fujita, Aiea, HI 96701
