OM642 intake port shutoff motor
04-18-2013, 03:35 PM
#1
OM642 intake port shutoff motor
Well, the inevitable happened yesterday. Smelled burning, then a check engine. Knew exactly what it was.
Codes are:
2530-001
Check component M55 (Inlet port shutoff motor). Short circuit to positive
2513-001
Check component M55 (Inlet port shutoff motor). Positioner signals fault.
Turbo inlet seal was changed about 1.5 years ago. Don't have the tools or means where I'm at to see if it's caused by oil leakage on to the motor, or if the flaps themselves are jammed due to EGR carbon.
In remotest Vermont, nearest dealership is booked until end of April. Apologies in advance if you see me limping around, very slowly.
Codes are:
2530-001
Check component M55 (Inlet port shutoff motor). Short circuit to positive
2513-001
Check component M55 (Inlet port shutoff motor). Positioner signals fault.
Turbo inlet seal was changed about 1.5 years ago. Don't have the tools or means where I'm at to see if it's caused by oil leakage on to the motor, or if the flaps themselves are jammed due to EGR carbon.
In remotest Vermont, nearest dealership is booked until end of April. Apologies in advance if you see me limping around, very slowly.
05-05-2013, 11:53 AM
#2
Two online orders for gaskets, two runs to the local stealership for forgotten seals/parts, a long weekend, and a helpful friend with an enclosed garage and many socket sets later, and the inlet port shutoff motor is changed!
Hardest part is removing the exhaust collector bolts, as these have very limited clearance. The amount of oil that was in the area below the air inlet ducting was amazing. I even had to separate and clean the engine wiring loom as it was literally dripping with oil. Not too sure what the penultimate failure cause of the existing motor is, as it is pretty well sealed in general. It did get hot enough to burn a hole in the casing, which was probably what the burning smell was.
These instructions proved invaluable:
http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/sh...ad.php?t=93389
along with WIS and EPC for things like torque specifications and recommendations when bolts could not be reused.
I have to admit that I was a bit strong-armed in reattaching the plastic intake manifold, which resulted in the plastic being split. This added $270 to the total cost, which came in at around $450. A local dealership quoted $1550 plus tax for this same thing.
Hardest part is removing the exhaust collector bolts, as these have very limited clearance. The amount of oil that was in the area below the air inlet ducting was amazing. I even had to separate and clean the engine wiring loom as it was literally dripping with oil. Not too sure what the penultimate failure cause of the existing motor is, as it is pretty well sealed in general. It did get hot enough to burn a hole in the casing, which was probably what the burning smell was.
These instructions proved invaluable:
http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/sh...ad.php?t=93389
along with WIS and EPC for things like torque specifications and recommendations when bolts could not be reused.
I have to admit that I was a bit strong-armed in reattaching the plastic intake manifold, which resulted in the plastic being split. This added $270 to the total cost, which came in at around $450. A local dealership quoted $1550 plus tax for this same thing.
07-16-2013, 07:01 PM
#3
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Join Date: Mar 2012
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2008 E320 Bluetec
port shutoff motor
So the Mercedes mechanic tells me because the labor involved is extensive, it will cost me ONLY $2800 to replace the port shutoff motor. Any suggestions. ??
07-17-2013, 01:01 PM
#6
Around 75k miles is when mine failed. Ironically, in the week or so the engine was in "limp mode" with limited to no turbo boost, I achieved some of the best MPG #s on the highway of 39.8 MPG. Very slow accelerating, but no upper speed limit, etc.
Unknowns when the motor is changed is if the flaps themselves are jammed due to carbon buildup. Mine were still easily moveable by hand. If the flaps are jammed the manifolds need to be removed which is no easy task. I understand at that point it's probably worth changing other stuff like the EGR cooler seals.
Search the Jeep forums for info on theories and modifications, as some of the Grand Cherokees used the same engine.
Unknowns when the motor is changed is if the flaps themselves are jammed due to carbon buildup. Mine were still easily moveable by hand. If the flaps are jammed the manifolds need to be removed which is no easy task. I understand at that point it's probably worth changing other stuff like the EGR cooler seals.
Search the Jeep forums for info on theories and modifications, as some of the Grand Cherokees used the same engine.
07-17-2013, 06:26 PM
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
I 'believe' 89K and 75K miles is really nothing for a diesel; the I6 guys are probably having a laugh now. Mine's only done 35K miles and zero problems so far. It will be several years before I hit 75K unless I accept a long commuting contract; anything is possible.
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08-02-2013, 10:21 AM
#8
134K and looks like mines done.
Where's the best place to get one? And do you have the list of gaskets and seals needed?
08-02-2013, 10:29 AM
#9
MBWorld Fanatic!
Tried to save mine with a good intake cleaning using BG Products ISC. Made an in-line (in between the intercooler and turbo) mister and thought I might get away with cleaning and then replacing the blown fuse under the hood (#55 I think it was). No joy. Fuse just blew again. Motor must be toast.
Where's the best place to get one? And do you have the list of gaskets and seals needed?
Where's the best place to get one? And do you have the list of gaskets and seals needed?
08-02-2013, 11:09 AM
#10
To be honest, I can't be very much help in terms of what parts are needed because I was short of a gasket or two, and ordered too many of another gasket and seal. There were other seals in the charge air pipe that the WIS recommended be replaced once separated which I did. My advice is to get in to the EPC and make a list. If there is a specific part you are unsure if you must change, post the part # and section/subsection # from the EPC and I'll check.
All of the thin metal gaskets that are removed I would definitely replace. You will also likely need the plastic linkages that connect the motor to the flaps. It is reconnecting these fiddly linkages that are probably the hardest part of the job. Also, many of the bolts that hold the turbo bits together to the exhaust are "torque to yield" which means they should not be reused. I would also consider replacing the swirl oil separator itself, as the diaphragm in mine was kind of shrunken and misshaped.
I'm sorry I sound like I'm only telling you half the story, but it was kind of rushed weekend to get this done successfully.
My two part sources are:
parts.com - which is now fulfilled by dealerships in the Autonation.com network
and
oem.mercedes-benzparts.com - which is fulfilled by MB of Chicago
I did also order a turbo to air filter box assembly which has the leaking gasket in it (because I split my original one) to one that has the improved turbo gasket design from ecstuning.com . On reflection I could've ordered it from any of the other places instead.
Here's the appearance of the resdesigned gasket.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Mercedes_Be...ake/ES2574406/
There are times when parts.com is slightly less expensive than mercedes-benzparts.com and vice versa. Perhaps to avoid selling to trade, they typically take 1-2 extra days to assemble and ship out orders, but both have been reliable. When searching for part numbers, you must eliminate spaces, and the any letter that appears at the begining of the part #. Both sell only genuine parts, and are SUBSTANTIALLY cheaper than walking up at the dealership. You can also try the usual places like rockauto.com and such, but I hate dealing with interchange lists, and guessing who really makes what aftermarket part.
Let me know if you need help determining which parts to get...and I'll try to help. Oddly enough, while the engine was in limp-home because of this, I got the best highway MPGs ever. The ECU just restricts turbo and torque application, not engine speed or vehicle speed. It was a bit like someone had pressed the "ECO" button on a 'modern' car. LoL
All of the thin metal gaskets that are removed I would definitely replace. You will also likely need the plastic linkages that connect the motor to the flaps. It is reconnecting these fiddly linkages that are probably the hardest part of the job. Also, many of the bolts that hold the turbo bits together to the exhaust are "torque to yield" which means they should not be reused. I would also consider replacing the swirl oil separator itself, as the diaphragm in mine was kind of shrunken and misshaped.
I'm sorry I sound like I'm only telling you half the story, but it was kind of rushed weekend to get this done successfully.
My two part sources are:
parts.com - which is now fulfilled by dealerships in the Autonation.com network
and
oem.mercedes-benzparts.com - which is fulfilled by MB of Chicago
I did also order a turbo to air filter box assembly which has the leaking gasket in it (because I split my original one) to one that has the improved turbo gasket design from ecstuning.com . On reflection I could've ordered it from any of the other places instead.
Here's the appearance of the resdesigned gasket.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Mercedes_Be...ake/ES2574406/
There are times when parts.com is slightly less expensive than mercedes-benzparts.com and vice versa. Perhaps to avoid selling to trade, they typically take 1-2 extra days to assemble and ship out orders, but both have been reliable. When searching for part numbers, you must eliminate spaces, and the any letter that appears at the begining of the part #. Both sell only genuine parts, and are SUBSTANTIALLY cheaper than walking up at the dealership. You can also try the usual places like rockauto.com and such, but I hate dealing with interchange lists, and guessing who really makes what aftermarket part.
Let me know if you need help determining which parts to get...and I'll try to help. Oddly enough, while the engine was in limp-home because of this, I got the best highway MPGs ever. The ECU just restricts turbo and torque application, not engine speed or vehicle speed. It was a bit like someone had pressed the "ECO" button on a 'modern' car. LoL
Last edited by apl175; 08-02-2013 at 11:24 AM.
08-02-2013, 01:42 PM
#13
To be honest, I can't be very much help in terms of what parts are needed because I was short of a gasket or two, and ordered too many of another gasket and seal. There were other seals in the charge air pipe that the WIS recommended be replaced once separated which I did. My advice is to get in to the EPC and make a list. If there is a specific part you are unsure if you must change, post the part # and section/subsection # from the EPC and I'll check.
All of the thin metal gaskets that are removed I would definitely replace. You will also likely need the plastic linkages that connect the motor to the flaps. It is reconnecting these fiddly linkages that are probably the hardest part of the job. Also, many of the bolts that hold the turbo bits together to the exhaust are "torque to yield" which means they should not be reused. I would also consider replacing the swirl oil separator itself, as the diaphragm in mine was kind of shrunken and misshaped.
I'm sorry I sound like I'm only telling you half the story, but it was kind of rushed weekend to get this done successfully.
My two part sources are:
parts.com - which is now fulfilled by dealerships in the Autonation.com network
and
oem.mercedes-benzparts.com - which is fulfilled by MB of Chicago
I did also order a turbo to air filter box assembly which has the leaking gasket in it (because I split my original one) to one that has the improved turbo gasket design from ecstuning.com . On reflection I could've ordered it from any of the other places instead.
Here's the appearance of the resdesigned gasket.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Mercedes_Be...ake/ES2574406/
There are times when parts.com is slightly less expensive than mercedes-benzparts.com and vice versa. Perhaps to avoid selling to trade, they typically take 1-2 extra days to assemble and ship out orders, but both have been reliable. When searching for part numbers, you must eliminate spaces, and the any letter that appears at the begining of the part #. Both sell only genuine parts, and are SUBSTANTIALLY cheaper than walking up at the dealership. You can also try the usual places like rockauto.com and such, but I hate dealing with interchange lists, and guessing who really makes what aftermarket part.
Let me know if you need help determining which parts to get...and I'll try to help. Oddly enough, while the engine was in limp-home because of this, I got the best highway MPGs ever. The ECU just restricts turbo and torque application, not engine speed or vehicle speed. It was a bit like someone had pressed the "ECO" button on a 'modern' car. LoL
All of the thin metal gaskets that are removed I would definitely replace. You will also likely need the plastic linkages that connect the motor to the flaps. It is reconnecting these fiddly linkages that are probably the hardest part of the job. Also, many of the bolts that hold the turbo bits together to the exhaust are "torque to yield" which means they should not be reused. I would also consider replacing the swirl oil separator itself, as the diaphragm in mine was kind of shrunken and misshaped.
I'm sorry I sound like I'm only telling you half the story, but it was kind of rushed weekend to get this done successfully.
My two part sources are:
parts.com - which is now fulfilled by dealerships in the Autonation.com network
and
oem.mercedes-benzparts.com - which is fulfilled by MB of Chicago
I did also order a turbo to air filter box assembly which has the leaking gasket in it (because I split my original one) to one that has the improved turbo gasket design from ecstuning.com . On reflection I could've ordered it from any of the other places instead.
Here's the appearance of the resdesigned gasket.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Mercedes_Be...ake/ES2574406/
There are times when parts.com is slightly less expensive than mercedes-benzparts.com and vice versa. Perhaps to avoid selling to trade, they typically take 1-2 extra days to assemble and ship out orders, but both have been reliable. When searching for part numbers, you must eliminate spaces, and the any letter that appears at the begining of the part #. Both sell only genuine parts, and are SUBSTANTIALLY cheaper than walking up at the dealership. You can also try the usual places like rockauto.com and such, but I hate dealing with interchange lists, and guessing who really makes what aftermarket part.
Let me know if you need help determining which parts to get...and I'll try to help. Oddly enough, while the engine was in limp-home because of this, I got the best highway MPGs ever. The ECU just restricts turbo and torque application, not engine speed or vehicle speed. It was a bit like someone had pressed the "ECO" button on a 'modern' car. LoL
Your comment regarding your MPG is interesting, I wonder what position the flaps were at or what else the ECU did to fuel delivery etc. if anything. Sounds
Ike it's begging for an ECU mod to cash in on that efficiency. You weren't driving downhill in both directions were you?
08-02-2013, 02:31 PM
#14
http://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/
Free for customers in the USA - though you might need a credit card to verify your identity. Benefit is that you can put in your VIN# , and it will show you specific parts for your vehicle. Assemble your parts shopping list, and just cut and paste part #s in to your favorite supplier website. You can also click on the "datacard" and see all the option codes your car was built with.
08-02-2013, 05:47 PM
#15
Electronic Parts Catalog.
http://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/
Free for customers in the USA - though you might need a credit card to verify your identity. Benefit is that you can put in your VIN# , and it will show you specific parts for your vehicle. Assemble your parts shopping list, and just cut and paste part #s in to your favorite supplier website. You can also click on the "datacard" and see all the option codes your car was built with.
http://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/
Free for customers in the USA - though you might need a credit card to verify your identity. Benefit is that you can put in your VIN# , and it will show you specific parts for your vehicle. Assemble your parts shopping list, and just cut and paste part #s in to your favorite supplier website. You can also click on the "datacard" and see all the option codes your car was built with.
09-26-2013, 12:09 PM
#16
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This just happened on my 08 E320 BT. Code 2513-001 M55. What parts do I need to order and any install instructions/vacation pics available? EPC site is not letting me register.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
09-26-2013, 10:40 PM
#17
I strongly recommend that you try again to register at the EPC site. Certain components such as the intake gasket were replaced by redesigned parts in later model years. It is not possible to give out part #s with any assurance they will fit your vehicle 100% other than if you use the EPC.
Alternatively, I would recommend a one day subscription to Startekinfo where you can get access to the parts list, AND detained disassembly instructions that have the fastener torque specs, and cautionary notes. The factory instructions available here will also explicitly state when a particular bolt, washer, gasket or seal must NOT be reused.
Apologies that I cannot be of more assistance.
Alternatively, I would recommend a one day subscription to Startekinfo where you can get access to the parts list, AND detained disassembly instructions that have the fastener torque specs, and cautionary notes. The factory instructions available here will also explicitly state when a particular bolt, washer, gasket or seal must NOT be reused.
Apologies that I cannot be of more assistance.
09-27-2013, 09:23 AM
#18
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Thanks for the reply.
Dealer and MBUSA are actually going to help us out on this. We had extended warranty for three years that was not used at all and expired in June. They are covering 75% of all parts and labor. They found a leaking gaskets that caused inlet motor not to work anymore. I'll post parts and part numbers once I have my car back.
Dealer and MBUSA are actually going to help us out on this. We had extended warranty for three years that was not used at all and expired in June. They are covering 75% of all parts and labor. They found a leaking gaskets that caused inlet motor not to work anymore. I'll post parts and part numbers once I have my car back.
