Who has over 100,000 miles on their gasoline W211?
#201
It wont break :p
There's a thread entitled "How many miles on your W211?" but it has a bunch of low mile cars and doesn't differentiate between gasoline and diesel.
How far can a gasoline W211 go? I don't seem to read much about them over 100,000 miles. Do they disintegrate? Just die sudden deaths?
For example, I spoke to the service manager at the Toyota dealership and asked what kind of mileage older Sequoias are coming in with and he said regularly over 300,000 miles and if well maintained close to 500,000 miles. I know many people with similar stories, in varied cars. I know it's apples and oranges (or is it) but for those of us with gasoline cars who are considering keeping them over 100,000 miles I'm curious about what we might be getting into.
So... to aid us folks considering going over to the dark side of 100,000+ miles in gasoline W211's, those of you who have done it can you please post something along the lines of:
-Year
-Model
-Miles
-Mechanical issues
-Any other input you can give
Thanks!
How far can a gasoline W211 go? I don't seem to read much about them over 100,000 miles. Do they disintegrate? Just die sudden deaths?
For example, I spoke to the service manager at the Toyota dealership and asked what kind of mileage older Sequoias are coming in with and he said regularly over 300,000 miles and if well maintained close to 500,000 miles. I know many people with similar stories, in varied cars. I know it's apples and oranges (or is it) but for those of us with gasoline cars who are considering keeping them over 100,000 miles I'm curious about what we might be getting into.
So... to aid us folks considering going over to the dark side of 100,000+ miles in gasoline W211's, those of you who have done it can you please post something along the lines of:
-Year
-Model
-Miles
-Mechanical issues
-Any other input you can give
Thanks!
Last edited by W211_ZANTE; 09-05-2017 at 06:46 AM.
#203
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2000 E320 2009 E550
WHO HAS OVER 100K
Purchase new on European Delivery. Just turned 100,000 miles. Schedule E is due in 6,000 miles. Replaced front struts at independent about nine months ago. The independent had to replace the front struts about a month ago no charge when error appeared on the screen CAR TOO LOW.
Rear axle seals replaced by independent about a year ago. Previously replaced by authorized dealer twice under warranty. The independent said it looks like there was some type of glue paste on the seals. The first time the dealer repair the seals after I found a leak on the floor. About a month later there was a leak on the floor. The dealer billed Mercedes for new seals. Nothing major battery changed, tires replaced and normal maintenance. Tire sensors were replaced on all wheels at different times.
I will take it to the independent for Service E and the 100,000 miles service.
Rear axle seals replaced by independent about a year ago. Previously replaced by authorized dealer twice under warranty. The independent said it looks like there was some type of glue paste on the seals. The first time the dealer repair the seals after I found a leak on the floor. About a month later there was a leak on the floor. The dealer billed Mercedes for new seals. Nothing major battery changed, tires replaced and normal maintenance. Tire sensors were replaced on all wheels at different times.
I will take it to the independent for Service E and the 100,000 miles service.
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markpetersonii (09-20-2017)
#205
There's a thread entitled "How many miles on your W211?" but it has a bunch of low mile cars and doesn't differentiate between gasoline and diesel.
How far can a gasoline W211 go? I don't seem to read much about them over 100,000 miles. Do they disintegrate? Just die sudden deaths?
For example, I spoke to the service manager at the Toyota dealership and asked what kind of mileage older Sequoias are coming in with and he said regularly over 300,000 miles and if well maintained close to 500,000 miles. I know many people with similar stories, in varied cars. I know it's apples and oranges (or is it) but for those of us with gasoline cars who are considering keeping them over 100,000 miles I'm curious about what we might be getting into.
So... to aid us folks considering going over to the dark side of 100,000+ miles in gasoline W211's, those of you who have done it can you please post something along the lines of:
-Year
-Model
-Miles
-Mechanical issues
-Any other input you can give
Thanks!
How far can a gasoline W211 go? I don't seem to read much about them over 100,000 miles. Do they disintegrate? Just die sudden deaths?
For example, I spoke to the service manager at the Toyota dealership and asked what kind of mileage older Sequoias are coming in with and he said regularly over 300,000 miles and if well maintained close to 500,000 miles. I know many people with similar stories, in varied cars. I know it's apples and oranges (or is it) but for those of us with gasoline cars who are considering keeping them over 100,000 miles I'm curious about what we might be getting into.
So... to aid us folks considering going over to the dark side of 100,000+ miles in gasoline W211's, those of you who have done it can you please post something along the lines of:
-Year
-Model
-Miles
-Mechanical issues
-Any other input you can give
Thanks!
Model - E500
Miles - 125k
Issues - Just replaced the ignition switch, SBC unit. Currently have a small leak in the main rear seal, front right ball joints need to be replaced, Climate control controls don't really work (only blows on the windshield for the passenger and for the driver it blows through the middle vents)and the alarm siren doesn't work.
#207
Member
Really, 100K miles?? try 300+ my wifes car has 303K miles - Original transmission, rear axle, water pump, head gaskets.
Did have to change catalytic converters last month and will need motor mounts next month.
cheers
Did have to change catalytic converters last month and will need motor mounts next month.
cheers
#208
I have a 2004 mercedes e320 w211 with 188k miles. It is very clean, no rust (california car), no dents, not even a scratch . AMG package sun visors, heated and cooled seats, navigation Love this car my favorite body style MB ever made . I replaced valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, and air filter 3 months ago when I first got it with 155k miles . I replaced fuel pump today . Other than that the car hasn't asked for much i dont have any problems with it not a single light on the dash 🙄 by the way I drove the car from san Diego California to Chicago and came back with only an oil change
#209
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2003 E500 Benz & 2015 BMW M235ix
My 2003 E500 Still Running Great 184,000 Miles
Just hit the 184,000 miles. Running rough at idle so had plugs and wires replaced at an independent MB Shop. Still some occasional misfires, so DIY project: I replaced all eight ignition coils myself with Bosch parts from Advance Auto.....guy said they are same German-made parts sold to Mercedes Benz as OEM. My cost $69 each; MB Dealer $166 - $211 depending whether you get them from an online discount MB Dealer (e.g., www.getmercedesparts.com or www.parts.mercedesbenzofDurham.com). Runs like silk now! Here's how I've maintained my E500 since I bought it Pre-owned in 2005 at local MB Dealer: Mobil 1 change every 5k - 6k miles; transmission fluid & filter changed each 40k miles; other fluids changed periodically such as brakes, power steering, coolant, etc; change spark plugs every 50k - 70k miles (MB says every 100k miles...... no way!).
Based upon www.mercedessource.com recommendation for high miles vehicles, I'm also going to start changing just the oil filer myself in between oil changes at 3k miles.
Major repairs: Intake Manifold replaced 183,000 miles; both front air shocks, one about 75,000 miles, the other about 165,000 miles; front end ball joints etc second time about 155,000 miles; water pump about 150,000 miles; fan belt pulley & tensioner about 160,000 miles. Warranty Repairs: Radiator and transmission torque converter from glycol contamination @ 45,000 miles; SBC Unit @ 60,000 miles.
The above are just what I recall without doing through all my maintenance records.
I'll be happy to answer any questions from you folks.
Based upon www.mercedessource.com recommendation for high miles vehicles, I'm also going to start changing just the oil filer myself in between oil changes at 3k miles.
Major repairs: Intake Manifold replaced 183,000 miles; both front air shocks, one about 75,000 miles, the other about 165,000 miles; front end ball joints etc second time about 155,000 miles; water pump about 150,000 miles; fan belt pulley & tensioner about 160,000 miles. Warranty Repairs: Radiator and transmission torque converter from glycol contamination @ 45,000 miles; SBC Unit @ 60,000 miles.
The above are just what I recall without doing through all my maintenance records.
I'll be happy to answer any questions from you folks.
There's a thread entitled "How many miles on your W211?" but it has a bunch of low mile cars and doesn't differentiate between gasoline and diesel.
How far can a gasoline W211 go? I don't seem to read much about them over 100,000 miles. Do they disintegrate? Just die sudden deaths?
For example, I spoke to the service manager at the Toyota dealership and asked what kind of mileage older Sequoias are coming in with and he said regularly over 300,000 miles and if well maintained close to 500,000 miles. I know many people with similar stories, in varied cars. I know it's apples and oranges (or is it) but for those of us with gasoline cars who are considering keeping them over 100,000 miles I'm curious about what we might be getting into.
So... to aid us folks considering going over to the dark side of 100,000+ miles in gasoline W211's, those of you who have done it can you please post something along the lines of:
-Year
-Model
-Miles
-Mechanical issues
-Any other input you can give
Thanks!
How far can a gasoline W211 go? I don't seem to read much about them over 100,000 miles. Do they disintegrate? Just die sudden deaths?
For example, I spoke to the service manager at the Toyota dealership and asked what kind of mileage older Sequoias are coming in with and he said regularly over 300,000 miles and if well maintained close to 500,000 miles. I know many people with similar stories, in varied cars. I know it's apples and oranges (or is it) but for those of us with gasoline cars who are considering keeping them over 100,000 miles I'm curious about what we might be getting into.
So... to aid us folks considering going over to the dark side of 100,000+ miles in gasoline W211's, those of you who have done it can you please post something along the lines of:
-Year
-Model
-Miles
-Mechanical issues
-Any other input you can give
Thanks!
Last edited by mcleantmw; 09-23-2017 at 01:04 PM. Reason: Add spark plugs changes frequency
#210
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2007 E350 Sedan
That's interesting to me. My 2007 E350, now at 176,000, has begun to throw a code randomly indicating a misfire on the #3 cylinder. I plan to replace just that ignition coil and see if that takes care of things, and if it doesn't to replace the rest. The coil replacement process looks pretty straight-forward. Looks like the design on them changed some since your model, and there are not the same number of wires and plugs to deal with.
I know this sounds stupid, but my biggest challenge on that is going to be getting the engine cover off. The front is a snap, but the back hangs on like grim death.
I know this sounds stupid, but my biggest challenge on that is going to be getting the engine cover off. The front is a snap, but the back hangs on like grim death.
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2003 E500 Benz & 2015 BMW M235ix
It's recommended to replace all eight (or six) ignition coils instead of just a faulty one. That's what I've seen as a recommendation.
That's interesting to me. My 2007 E350, now at 176,000, has begun to throw a code randomly indicating a misfire on the #3 cylinder. I plan to replace just that ignition coil and see if that takes care of things, and if it doesn't to replace the rest. The coil replacement process looks pretty straight-forward. Looks like the design on them changed some since your model, and there are not the same number of wires and plugs to deal with.
I know this sounds stupid, but my biggest challenge on that is going to be getting the engine cover off. The front is a snap, but the back hangs on like grim death.
I know this sounds stupid, but my biggest challenge on that is going to be getting the engine cover off. The front is a snap, but the back hangs on like grim death.
#212
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2007 E350 Sedan
I have seen the same. If I can get that back cover off easily enough, I may just take the opportunity to replace all six. Replacing just one may somehow stress the others, and the cost is not huge.
#214
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2003 E500 Benz & 2015 BMW M235ix
That's true, but if you have a 184,000 high mileage vehicle like mine, it's likely that all ignition coils are near their end of life, and it makes sense to replace all eight of them instead of just the defective one. Same goes for routine replacement of spark plugs, replacing all eight makes to most sense for the same reason. But that's just my perspective, and unless it's a low mileage vehicle where just one ignition coil fails, I've read it's best to replace all ignition coils instead of just one.......something to do with intermixing a brand new one with the rest that are worn and operate less efficiently......just what I've read from seasoned mechanics.
#215
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2003 E500 Benz & 2015 BMW M235ix
Removing/replacing ignition coils
FYI, took me about 1 1/2 hours to replace all eight of the ignition coils on my 2003 E500. Most challenging was removing to the two spark plug wires from each coil. Likely, I just had my plugs and wires replaced so the rubber cups from each two sets spark plug wire going into each coil was not "fused on" from wear & tear and heat. I just used a small head screw driver to loosing up each wire cup all the way around and then could pull the cup off. Removing and replace the electrical connector on each coil was easy. Also was cautious about unscrewing the small bolt hold each coil so that I didn't drop it down the side of the engine.......I had no spares!
#216
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2007 E350 Sedan
I think that the design has changed for my 2007. It certainly doesn't look the same, anyway.
See this link (hope it works!)
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item5
See this link (hope it works!)
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item5
#217
Out Of Control!!
That's true, but if you have a 184,000 high mileage vehicle like mine, it's likely that all ignition coils are near their end of life, and it makes sense to replace all eight of them instead of just the defective one. Same goes for routine replacement of spark plugs, replacing all eight makes to most sense for the same reason. But that's just my perspective, and unless it's a low mileage vehicle where just one ignition coil fails, I've read it's best to replace all ignition coils instead of just one.......something to do with intermixing a brand new one with the rest that are worn and operate less efficiently......just what I've read from seasoned mechanics.
#218
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2003 E500 Benz & 2015 BMW M235ix
Ignition Coils for 2007 E350
I don't think that's the correct coil for your vehicle. I'd suggest you first find the part you need on one of the online MB Dealer's parts sites such as www.getmercedesparts.com They offer discount prices on the MB parts if you order them online (not onsite at the dealer). See the part data below for your vehicle which you indicated is a 2007 MB E350. Looks just like the same part design as for my 2003 E500 except with a different part number. Then you can ensure it's the same type part when researching substitutes at other discount parts stores, e.g., AdvanceAuto.
ELECTRICAL / IGNITION SYSTEM / IGNITION SYSTEM / IGNITION COIL
2729060060 - IGNITION COIL
E350
Here's the gif picture: https://www.getmercedesparts.com/med.../5/5717175.gif
MSRP Core ? Save Online Price
$75.00 $0.00 $16.50 $58.50
ELECTRICAL / IGNITION SYSTEM / IGNITION SYSTEM / IGNITION COIL
2729060060 - IGNITION COIL
E350
Here's the gif picture: https://www.getmercedesparts.com/med.../5/5717175.gif
MSRP Core ? Save Online Price
$75.00 $0.00 $16.50 $58.50
I think that the design has changed for my 2007. It certainly doesn't look the same, anyway.
See this link (hope it works!)
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item5
See this link (hope it works!)
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item5
#221
Out Of Control!!
#222
Former Vendor of MBWorld
That's interesting to me. My 2007 E350, now at 176,000, has begun to throw a code randomly indicating a misfire on the #3 cylinder. I plan to replace just that ignition coil and see if that takes care of things, and if it doesn't to replace the rest. The coil replacement process looks pretty straight-forward. Looks like the design on them changed some since your model, and there are not the same number of wires and plugs to deal with.
I know this sounds stupid, but my biggest challenge on that is going to be getting the engine cover off. The front is a snap, but the back hangs on like grim death.
I know this sounds stupid, but my biggest challenge on that is going to be getting the engine cover off. The front is a snap, but the back hangs on like grim death.
--Kyle
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2003 E500 Benz & 2015 BMW M235ix
Removing the Air Intake Cover
So, see the photo of the backside of the cover with both pieces attached. After you take the front cover off, there are four clamp on brackets you can see at the front and rear of the air filter housing. I pull up the main cover front the back or front to unsnap the two brackets and then pull up on the opposite end to dislodge the other two. You see that the large round gasket must align with the MAF bracket in the back of the engine when you replace the main air intake cover.......once that aligned you can push down hard to engage the two back brackets and then push down the front of the cover for the other two brackets.
#224
Member
That's interesting to me. My 2007 E350, now at 176,000, has begun to throw a code randomly indicating a misfire on the #3 cylinder. I plan to replace just that ignition coil and see if that takes care of things, and if it doesn't to replace the rest. The coil replacement process looks pretty straight-forward. Looks like the design on them changed some since your model, and there are not the same number of wires and plugs to deal with.
I know this sounds stupid, but my biggest challenge on that is going to be getting the engine cover off. The front is a snap, but the back hangs on like grim death.
I know this sounds stupid, but my biggest challenge on that is going to be getting the engine cover off. The front is a snap, but the back hangs on like grim death.