E55AMG05

I've done all the hard parts up till now. I got the fan shroud off np. I just messed one part up. I kinda cracked the plastic part of the idler pulley(serpentine belt) that's exactly next to the alternator. I cracked it but not the TEETH OF THE PULLEY where the serpentine belt goes just a lil bit on the side. Is that bad? and is that plastic pulley expensive why is that crap plastic? i noticed it has a spacer to seperate itself from the super charger belt with the other pulley. And how I broke it was from when I used a pry bar to loose the alternator.

So everything is good so far except for the pulley . How ever I am almost half done. Ok now all that's blocking me is the hoses, wires & pipes. I have no room to get this alternator out. I removed the wire from the alternator np positive battery is disconnected np. What can I do what hose is safe to remove and if so the clips on the end of the hose is like impossible to budge its like hard. I squeezed one of the hose and can hear the coolant. Idk what to do. I tried every possible solution and position removal for the alternator.

I wish I can show pics ill show them later PLZ any advice.

Plutoe

Remove the belts, pullies and coolant hose/bracket---disconnect and remove from bottom----------you are on a lift!!

E55AMG05

See that is the part that I am afraid to do because idk how to remove the clips that hold the hose in place

Plutoe

Well then you need to lower the hood----go to your computer and do a google search for MB hose clamp tools!!

E55AMG05

Update got the tools removed the hose and just pulled the alternator out. Took it to auto advance for the alternator diagnostic and the alternator failed meaning its shot. I still dnt believe that. Probably could be the regulator voltage

MercFiveHundred

Don't believe Autozone or Advance untrained personnel using that alternator testing machine. I've brought an alternator (97 e320) there and the guy tested it and came back and said it was bad. I asked for him to do a retest while i watch. He completely ignore the instructions and tested with the wrong wire setup. I informed him that the instructions said to use the other wire hookup. Then the testing machine resulted in a good alternator. Remember, they are in the business of selling you another alternator. I would watch them, if you didnt already,

E55AMG05

No way. he gave me a printed receipt from the machine of how much voltage the alternator is producing and it said 11.4 and next to it says max 14.4 and than after it says fail. you know what you are right something is sketchy there. I asked him if it could be the regulator voltage which is a common problem he said "papa idk what it could be the problem but the machine says its fail no bueno" but I am pretty sure that its not the voltage regulator anymore because when the message "disabled functions" light came on short after the ABS light went on than and now the battery is like officially dead. wont charge and I kept jumping the cable trying to turn the car on hopeing for a miracle and sometimes it did but once I removed the cables from charging it would slowly turn off. <<<< all that WAS BEFORE I REMOVED THE ALTERNATOR. anyways it is time for a new battery im not worried about that. what I am worried is if it could be the regulator voltage. I took it off and have it here in my room but I think I shot the alternator officially by forcing it to turn on. keep in mind I only forced four times in a 3 week radius. the forth time that I tried to turn it on this time it turned on but than this message came after BATTERY/ALTERNATOR VISIT WORKSHOP I think the alternator is killed for sure this time idk.

Critter

Seeing it is just a PITA to change the alternator you have two options, change out the regulator and retest prior to install or purchase another alternator and drive. If the battery is dead chances are the alternator has been overworked for a while so it could be a short lived success if you just do the regulator, also if the car has high mileage another alternator would probably be a wise investment. Fresh battery is a given. Not sure what you mean by forcing the alternator to turn on but if the regulator is bypassed then you run the risk of frying other sensitive electronics with overvoltage.

jps026

How did you get the Alternator out? I can't get mine out and I've removed everything. What the procedure? Thanks

cmriv

LUBE!!!!!!! And a forceful hand, however don't break your timing case cover.... that'll be a tisk tisk....

DH1951

Many so called "shot" alternators are the result of worn brushes. The E55 AMG is on the list of cars where the voltage regulator can be changed IN the car.
I have just replaced mine (2005 E55 AMG) as preventive maintenance. Jack up front of car and place on jack stands.
Remove the engine splash shields to reveal the alternator with enough room to get your hands in there.

From Alex at Legitstreetcars on YouTube check to see if your car is listed.


The Lucky ones. No removal needed

1. 211 Chassis- 2003-2006 E320, E500, E55 AMG, E320 CDI
   
2. 204 Chassis 2009-2015 C63 AMG
   
3. 164 Chassis 2007-2011 ML63 and R63
   
4. 164 Chassis 2006-2007 ML500 and R500
   
5. 221&216 Chassis, S63 and CL63
   
6. 221&216 Chassis S550 and CL550. Can be done in car, but dipstick oil tube needs to comeout.
   
7. 220 Chassis S430,S500, S55 AMG. Can be done in car but it’s easier to take it out.
   

The Not So Lucky Ones. Removal of Alternator needed

1. 202 Chassis 1998-2002 C-Class
   
2. 208 Chassis 1997-2002 or 2003 if Convertible CLK-Class
   
3. 210 Chassis 1996-2002 E-Class
   
4. 163 Chassis 1998-2005 ML-Class
   
5. 203 Chassis 2001-2007 C-Class
   
6. 170 Chassis 1997-2004 SLK-Class
   
7. 171 Chassis 2005-2012 SLK-Class
   
8. 164 Chassis 2006-2012 ML-Class
   
9. 204 Chassis 2008-2014- C-Class