Transmissions oil change
Which oil is better, Shell ATF 134 or Mobil 134? Have anyone notice any difference?
What about the transfer case, should this be change around the same time?
i purchased the parts from autohausaz. after much research, i used valvoline maxlife dex/merc atf to flush and fill at 80k. i think someone had done it at 39-40k since the transmission pan nut was stripped, and i drained the fluid by removing the pan slowly so that the fluid drained out in a controlled fashion. i flushed the torque converter by following the 'banjo bolt line' [see other posts] out to the atf cooler [where it is easier to work with], disconnected it, and attached clear tubing which i bought at a nearby hardware store. my daughter helped hold the tubing as it drained and was fascinated when the fluid colour changed from a murky brown to a bright red. after the initial drain and fill [~5 qts], i added 2 to 3 quarts [measured as it drained out] every time i started and stopped the car [after ~30sec] slowly running through all the gears. i needed a total of ~12 1/2 quarts. i used the atf dipstick [purchased elsewhere on-line] to check levels cold and at 80 degrees C. thoroughly clean the pan and the magnet - i used a spray cleaner and lint-free cloth. torque all the bolts to specification.
i also changed the adapter plug whilst i was down there.
the car runs great. i drive ~500 miles every week and am currently at a little over 92k.
hope this helps.
thanx to all previous posts on this topic.
cheers!
Thanks a ton!
Here is the link you requested - http://www.benzworld.org/forums/4904874-post3.html
Cheers!
You'll need:
- 4-5 quarts of ATF, Shell 134 is the least expensive fluid that meets the MB spec.
- Transmission filter kit (kit comes with a rubber gasket for the pan). Mann makes a good filter and is widely available.
- Dipstick, get one from eBay, or borrow it.
Get under the car, unbolt the cover under the transmission pan.
Drain transmission thru the drain bolt. Once that's done you'll see 6 nuts that hold the pan in place. Be careful removing the pan, there's usually a quart left in there. Make sure you have a drain pan and a helper to catch the fluid.
Clean the pan and magnets, replace the pan gasket and pop the filter out and replace it.
DO NOT over tighten the bolts when reinstalling the pan. They strip easily, so use a torque wrench or hand tight + quarter turn.
Fill the transmission thru the dipstick tube, use a funnel with a hose attachment.
The correct way to measure the trans fluid level is with the car running, and in D so the fluid is cycling thru the torque converter (make sure you chock the wheels/ebrake)
If your first drain/fill comes out really dirty you can repeat these steps. You can drain/fill without replacing the filter until the fluid comes out red, then replace the filter once more.
Last edited by sv650john; Feb 24, 2014 at 04:32 PM.
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Question on the torque converter flush using the clear hose:
I attached a screenshot of the procedure. This part doesn't make sense to me. it says to:
"....unscrew banjo bolt (3) from connection. Connect connection fitting (4) with an approx. 1.5-meter long hose using hose clamp (5). Mount banjo bolt (3) and oil cooling line (2) to connection fitting (4). I do not know where you can find connection fitting or the part # for it, but you can try to slip the hose on the bolt and tight it with hose clamp...."
So, if you unscrew the bolt from the fitting and attach the hose to the fitting, how do you subsequently "mount the banjo bolt and cooling line to connection fitting" if there's a clear hose on it???? Is this procedure describing some kind of an additional tee fitting that isn't shown in the picture?
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https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-new-post.html See the begining post(s) of this thead.
Your TC likely has a drain plug. Draining by the drain plug will lkely remove more crud than by "flushing" and is safer for you don't want particulates floating in your tranny system.


