E-Class (W211) 2003-2009

camber bolts

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Old 05-23-2014, 03:44 AM
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camber bolts

Ive been told to install new camber bolts as Ive found my car a little 'twitchy' particularly on uneven surfaces or at higher speeds >80kph. Should I seriously consider this cost or first get w balance and wheel alignment done which hasnt been done for a long teim
Ive recently bough a 2nd hand 2008 E280 with 72K on it
HELP ME PLEASE
Old 05-23-2014, 03:50 AM
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Calm down just a little buddy. Definitely get it balanced and have an alignment first. You're probably going to have to describe this "twitchy" feeling as well before someone can help out. Camber bolts are for when your car is lowered and you have negative camber to correct.. Definitely not worth the $350 charge if you don't know what's going on.
Old 05-23-2014, 03:55 AM
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GDAY!
The twitchy feeling is something is difficuilt to explain but suffice to say I dont feel comfortable in the car. It occasionally veers towards the left but also I find I need to have full control of my sterring wheel as the car does occasionally skid ever so slightly at times - nothing too serious but I felt more comfortable in old honda than I do in my car! Consider the feeling as though you are going through a wet patch and you lose control for <1sec - a I said happens mostly on uneven surfaces and espcially when I pick up speed
Old 05-23-2014, 03:56 AM
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by the way - they charge us $650 Australian dollars here for that privilige!
Old 05-23-2014, 04:02 AM
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Well definitely get an alignment first and have the shop bring everything back in spec. That might solve the veering left issue. And since you say the twitchy feeling happens on uneven surfaces.. maybe it's just your tires aren't gripping on enough. I'm no expert on this so maybe someone can help chime in. Also $650 AUS is still about $600 USD which is absolutely ridiculous.
Old 05-23-2014, 03:26 PM
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07 E320 Bluetec
Originally Posted by mmirpuri
GDAY!
The twitchy feeling is something is difficuilt to explain but suffice to say I dont feel comfortable in the car. It occasionally veers towards the left but also I find I need to have full control of my sterring wheel as the car does occasionally skid ever so slightly at times - nothing too serious but I felt more comfortable in old honda than I do in my car! Consider the feeling as though you are going through a wet patch and you lose control for <1sec - a I said happens mostly on uneven surfaces and espcially when I pick up speed
At least one of your rear wheel toe-in/out is most likely considerably out either due to an impact or most likely a loose/worn bolt/bushing on one of the rear wheel lower arms. Raise rear wheels to check which one. It may be feasible to tighten the loose bolt if it's not worn however a worn bushing will need replacement. A bushing replacement is not too difficult if you have the tools however will need subsequent realignment; tightening a loose bolt may buy you time. Definitely get an alignment if you can't locate the cause.

Don't ask how I know. Mine was a result of modifications.

Let us know what it was.

Last edited by pinebaron; 05-23-2014 at 03:30 PM.
Old 05-26-2014, 01:19 AM
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Since the mid 90's there has been no accurate Camber and Caster adjustment facility fitted OEM!

Only current adjustment is front and rear Toe.

To attempt to return vehicle to factory specs to resolve premature inner edge tire wear, improve traction, fix steering pull the only alternative for Camber and Caster is to fit offset, slotted bolts.

But these are inaccurate one only position bolts with a minuscule .3 of one degree adjustment.

After installation it's no wonder many owners then go on to stating dealerships or alignment shops still did not get it right/fix the problem.


We saw the need therefore "to fix it right the first time" by designing, developing, patenting (and re-instating from the 1990's) a fully adjustable front suspension.

The current K-MAC kits have up to 4 times the adjustment of the one position offset bolts (both Positive or Negative). And unlike the bolts can be accurately adjusted - under load, direct on alignment turntable (no need to jack and reinstall each time).

Ongoing precise adjustment of both Camber and Caster settings if altering suspension height, fitting wide profile tires/wheels or for curb knock damage with the unique K-MAC patented design is just a single wrench/no dis-assembly.

For the rear similar kits for precise Camber adjustment with additional Toe to compensate for the new Camber facility.

Bonus with the four front and four rear bushes is that they are designed with twice the load bearing area and also replace the highest wearing suspension bushings.



Old 05-26-2014, 01:45 AM
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It kind of sounded like you were describing tramlining a bit, where due to your wide tires you grab on to inconsistencies in the road and it can feel twitchy.

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