Transmission Issue, Value body?




Do you think the first issue threw a code since the car was not able to shift? I am going to the dealer tomorrow and my extended warranty will want to see codes..This is more than likely a valve body/ conductor plate issue, I believe..
Any feedback is appreciated. Thank you.
I am not sure about the throwing of a code. I would think it would, but I am not sure.
They may want to update the software first, if that has not already been done.
Plus, are you up to date on transmission fluid/filter changes?
You may end up in the same place-a conductor plate change-but they may want to try the interim steps if such have not already been taken.
Last edited by Barry45RPM; Sep 9, 2014 at 06:35 PM.




I am not sure about the throwing of a code. I would think it would, but I am not sure.
They may want to update the software first, if that has not already been done.
Plus, are you up to date on transmission fluid/filter changes?
You may end up in the same place-a conductor plate change-but they may want to try the interim steps if such have not already been taken.












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I'm aware of it, and am always vigilant for its random appearance, but I am not going to pay to open the trans again and do any work on it. The car has 84,000 miles on it and is in every other way is mint.
The last repair was done under the ELW the Summer of 2013. Car aged out of ELW Feb 2014.
I had a 2004 E550 for 3 years which was the 1st year in the US for the 7 speed, and it was a mess. IMHO, I don't think MB ever developed this transmission into a great, smooth, dependable unit like the 5 speed was. I realize they had to add additional gears to get better MPG and to look competitive with other car companies... but on newer models when you start the car it defaults to a 6 speed. If you want all 7 speeds you have to press the S/C or now the S/E button each time you start it. Good luck.
Mercedes will not sell the valve body to him as they claim it is a "theft deterrent device." Mind you, the Indy shop I use is probably the best in all of Dallas for European cars (Autoscope). Off to dealer it has to go, but I'm curious what the price is (Autoscope had quoted $2,500 parts and labor).
Last edited by thegamemodo9; Sep 19, 2014 at 09:55 AM.




They are suggesting I pay for teardown of the pan to see if there is any debris, if so the extended warranty would have more evidence and move further. But i don't think there would be any debris found in the pan... So until a code or any hard evidence can be proven towards it being a valve body, I'm stuck.




Mercedes will not sell the valve body to him as they claim it is a "theft deterrent device." Mind you, the Indy shop I use is probably the best in all of Dallas for European cars (Autoscope). Off to dealer it has to go, but I'm curious what the price is (Autoscope had quoted $2,500 parts and labor).




They are suggesting I pay for teardown of the pan to see if there is any debris, if so the extended warranty would have more evidence and move further. But i don't think there would be any debris found in the pan... So until a code or any hard evidence can be proven towards it being a valve body, I'm stuck.




I even explained how its not safe to drive on the highway because it will not upshift at times.
The company is GWC.
Lesson learned is unless it's an extended warranty through the dealership/manufacturer, I'm not buying one ever again.
Good luck and thank you for the estimate.




Have CEL and a bunch of codes now obviously, so the extended warranty has enough f****** hard evidence now.




The dealer claims this is NOT possible because the conductor plates have been updated and will not work on an older valve body, therefore I myself have to purchase a valve body & conductor plate as a assembly to put into the used tranny...
Also funny how the warranty told me to go to aamco because " They have the same tools mercedes has to do your transmission"








I have a situation and need help with diagnosing the problem. Changed out my battery one day, drove the car around, Every thing seemed to be working fine. Stopped for gas, started the car back up, proceeded to move forward and heard a clunk...clunk. The car was very hesitant to get out of gear...almost as if I was starting to drive with the emergency break on. After about 5seconds, the car was fine. Next day, as i pressed the gas, the car would barely move and when it did move it wouldn't respond to me pressing the pedal. As I put the car in gear, it would just rev as if it wasn't getting in gear. After turning the car off and trying again 3mins later, put the car in gear, the car went forward, but still not the way it should have. It felt like either it was slipping, or just plain wasn't going in to gear. Could this be transmission? Sensor related? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks



