Another Airmatic Question
12-06-2015, 11:32 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Another Airmatic Question
I know I know a lot of airmatic questions but this one has me stuck!
So one day I am driving down the road and the "Airmatic Visit Workshop" comes on W/E
A month or so after that message comes on something weird been going on
I turn the car off for about an hour or 2 I see the front (both sides) are way lower than its supposed to be. I'm driving the car and although it feels a LITTLE bumpier it's nothing major. It stays that way for about a week
So after the week passes everything is working perfect. Its not sitting low not riding funny or nothing air compressor comes on and all is well.
Now after 3 days of it driving normal, I turn my car off and I'm sitting in there for about 1 1/2 now the REAR is super low!!
Why is it doing that????
So one day I am driving down the road and the "Airmatic Visit Workshop" comes on W/E
A month or so after that message comes on something weird been going on
I turn the car off for about an hour or 2 I see the front (both sides) are way lower than its supposed to be. I'm driving the car and although it feels a LITTLE bumpier it's nothing major. It stays that way for about a week
So after the week passes everything is working perfect. Its not sitting low not riding funny or nothing air compressor comes on and all is well.
Now after 3 days of it driving normal, I turn my car off and I'm sitting in there for about 1 1/2 now the REAR is super low!!
Why is it doing that????
12-06-2015, 12:10 PM
#2
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2004 E320
What I learned about my air suspension system when it failed:
If your suspension isn't staying up, is giving you warnings, etc, then you have a worn/tired system. To fix it you have to look at ALL the components.
The pump gets tired. So, either rebuild it or replace it.
The shocks and struts get tired. The bags get leaks. And the result is that the car leans or sags. Depending on which end or even which side of the car is going down, that's where you need to begin the repair.
The rear suspension is actually FOUR components not just the 2 rear bags. You will need to replace all 4.
Do the whole car suspension. You'll be glad you did. As a note, you don't have to do the whole thing at once. You can do the pump (and relay). Then the individual front struts, back shocks and then the rear bags.
If your suspension isn't staying up, is giving you warnings, etc, then you have a worn/tired system. To fix it you have to look at ALL the components.
The pump gets tired. So, either rebuild it or replace it.
The shocks and struts get tired. The bags get leaks. And the result is that the car leans or sags. Depending on which end or even which side of the car is going down, that's where you need to begin the repair.
The rear suspension is actually FOUR components not just the 2 rear bags. You will need to replace all 4.
Do the whole car suspension. You'll be glad you did. As a note, you don't have to do the whole thing at once. You can do the pump (and relay). Then the individual front struts, back shocks and then the rear bags.
12-06-2015, 12:13 PM
#3
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
I would guess your compressor is not making the pressure it should.
That can vary between the loads and temperatures as those affect the given pressure.
$40 for rebuild kit and about $10 for new filter.
I made pictorial in this section.
That can vary between the loads and temperatures as those affect the given pressure.
$40 for rebuild kit and about $10 for new filter.
I made pictorial in this section.
12-06-2015, 01:06 PM
#4
Member
Thread Starter
What I learned about my air suspension system when it failed:
If your suspension isn't staying up, is giving you warnings, etc, then you have a worn/tired system. To fix it you have to look at ALL the components.
The pump gets tired. So, either rebuild it or replace it.
The shocks and struts get tired. The bags get leaks. And the result is that the car leans or sags. Depending on which end or even which side of the car is going down, that's where you need to begin the repair.
The rear suspension is actually FOUR components not just the 2 rear bags. You will need to replace all 4.
Do the whole car suspension. You'll be glad you did. As a note, you don't have to do the whole thing at once. You can do the pump (and relay). Then the individual front struts, back shocks and then the rear bags.
If your suspension isn't staying up, is giving you warnings, etc, then you have a worn/tired system. To fix it you have to look at ALL the components.
The pump gets tired. So, either rebuild it or replace it.
The shocks and struts get tired. The bags get leaks. And the result is that the car leans or sags. Depending on which end or even which side of the car is going down, that's where you need to begin the repair.
The rear suspension is actually FOUR components not just the 2 rear bags. You will need to replace all 4.
Do the whole car suspension. You'll be glad you did. As a note, you don't have to do the whole thing at once. You can do the pump (and relay). Then the individual front struts, back shocks and then the rear bags.
For example right now the back is low but it's not deflated it still feels comfortable (I know what a blown strut/bag feels like)
12-06-2015, 01:06 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
What would be a way to check the compressor and the relay?
12-06-2015, 04:36 PM
#6
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2004 E320
There isn't any real reliable way to check that the pump is functioning properly. Bypassing the relay only makes the pump run. It doesn't make the pump build pressure.
If the pump runs but your system still sags, then the pump may not be building enough pressure. You can take off an air line and put in a pressure gauge but you still don't know more than that the pump runs and builds pressure. You don't know if that's enough pressure (should be 10-12 bar or ~150psi) OR if there's enough volume.
If you've already changed the rest of the system then you should be changing or rebuilding the pump at this point. When you do that you will also see the distribution block where the pump air line connects to the system. That block has a couple of electrical connections. Those operate solenoids to prevent air from backflowing and leaking down through the compressor. You can rebuild the solenoid seats or replace the block (expensive) if necessary. I would consider that only as a last resort if everything else has been replaced and there are no leaks found with soapy water solution.
If the pump runs but your system still sags, then the pump may not be building enough pressure. You can take off an air line and put in a pressure gauge but you still don't know more than that the pump runs and builds pressure. You don't know if that's enough pressure (should be 10-12 bar or ~150psi) OR if there's enough volume.
If you've already changed the rest of the system then you should be changing or rebuilding the pump at this point. When you do that you will also see the distribution block where the pump air line connects to the system. That block has a couple of electrical connections. Those operate solenoids to prevent air from backflowing and leaking down through the compressor. You can rebuild the solenoid seats or replace the block (expensive) if necessary. I would consider that only as a last resort if everything else has been replaced and there are no leaks found with soapy water solution.
12-06-2015, 07:34 PM
#7
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
If you read my pictorial, you will find what I did to monitor the compressor work.
