When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
4matic binding / locking at high steering angle E500
I did a lot of researching on this after the problem slowly got worse. My car has about 90k miles on it and I couldn't find any definitive answers on what the problem was exactly. I bought the car about 10k miles ago and the car turned smoothly in parking situations. The behavior degraded rapidly until the wheels would skid and scuff in both forward and reverse directions. It felt like a very aggressive locking center differential like on a rally car.
I am aware that there is a T case TSB for these cars but I wanted to try a few things first knowing the German mentality of "lifetime fluids"
I ordered MB T Case fluid from Pelican Parts because I've done a lot of Honda Element service and I know that old/ bad fluid can lead to wheel binding in those cars. It was just a feeling that the old fluid, especially in a situation where the capacity is so low would help this situation.
Cliff's notes- this worked.
To replace the transfer case fluid raise and level the car. The transfer case is located in about the middle of the car and it resides above a black metal brace that spans the driveshaft tunnel. The brace is held to the car with 3 16mm bolts per side and one near the center. The brace is held to the transfer case with 3 13mm bolts in the center of the brace. These need to be removed as well.
Before dropping the brace have a floor jack ready and in place to bear the weight of the transfer case because with the brace removed, it will essentially fall out of the car. I used a small piece of 2x4 and jacked lightly on the body of the t case before removing the brace. Sorry I don't have pics.
With the brace out of the way, you'll see that the drain plug is slightly blocked by the bushing mount. Remove the bushing mount with 4 torx bolts that go into the aluminum Transfer case housing. With the bushing mount off the fill and drain are both visible.
Remove the fill first. It uses I think a 6 or 8mm allen. Use heat if needed. They are tight. Once the fill is out, remove the drain. Nasty, black fluid will come out and not a lot of it!
Let it drip for a bit and replace the drain plug, pump the new T Case fluid in through the fill plug slowly until it begins to overflow. It doesn't take much but you want to make sure the car is level and it's settled before buttoning up.
Replace the fill plug, the bushing brace and the TCase mount. Use antiseize!
Set the car back down and drive some figure 8s. I drove for a day and the car is perfect now. It doesn't immediately resolve the problem, the plates in the differential need to get lubricated with the new lube which takes some time.
Hands-on work is about an hour. Probably less. With setup/cleanup I did this in my driveway in the rain in about 2 hours. The dealership wants $600 for it.
Buy yourself a beer and celebrate. This should apply to all 4matics of this generation.
I did a lot of researching on this after the problem slowly got worse. My car has about 90k miles on it and I couldn't find any definitive answers on what the problem was exactly. I bought the car about 10k miles ago and the car turned smoothly in parking situations. The behavior degraded rapidly until the wheels would skid and scuff in both forward and reverse directions. It felt like a very aggressive locking center differential like on a rally car.
I am aware that there is a T case TSB for these cars but I wanted to try a few things first knowing the German mentality of "lifetime fluids"
I ordered MB T Case fluid from Pelican Parts because I've done a lot of Honda Element service and I know that old/ bad fluid can lead to wheel binding in those cars. It was just a feeling that the old fluid, especially in a situation where the capacity is so low would help this situation.
Cliff's notes- this worked.
To replace the transfer case fluid raise and level the car. The transfer case is located in about the middle of the car and it resides above a black metal brace that spans the driveshaft tunnel. The brace is held to the car with 3 16mm bolts per side and one near the center. The brace is held to the transfer case with 3 13mm bolts in the center of the brace. These need to be removed as well.
Before dropping the brace have a floor jack ready and in place to bear the weight of the transfer case because with the brace removed, it will essentially fall out of the car. I used a small piece of 2x4 and jacked lightly on the body of the t case before removing the brace. Sorry I don't have pics.
With the brace out of the way, you'll see that the drain plug is slightly blocked by the bushing mount. Remove the bushing mount with 4 torx bolts that go into the aluminum Transfer case housing. With the bushing mount off the fill and drain are both visible.
Remove the fill first. It uses I think a 6 or 8mm allen. Use heat if needed. They are tight. Once the fill is out, remove the drain. Nasty, black fluid will come out and not a lot of it!
Let it drip for a bit and replace the drain plug, pump the new T Case fluid in through the fill plug slowly until it begins to overflow. It doesn't take much but you want to make sure the car is level and it's settled before buttoning up.
Replace the fill plug, the bushing brace and the TCase mount. Use antiseize!
Set the car back down and drive some figure 8s. I drove for a day and the car is perfect now. It doesn't immediately resolve the problem, the plates in the differential need to get lubricated with the new lube which takes some time.
Hands-on work is about an hour. Probably less. With setup/cleanup I did this in my driveway in the rain in about 2 hours. The dealership wants $600 for it.
Buy yourself a beer and celebrate. This should apply to all 4matics of this generation.
Hi
I have 05 e500 4 matic transfer case problem at 24000 miles after two year
Dealer replace under warranty , three year latter it come back again they change new fluitd and told me noise will go away after 500 Milles but it not and they ask for $5400 for new one
I looked up internet no one known how to fix it
I went to auto parts got gear oil 75-140
To put in buy my self no machanic want to do that. And the noise went away after a week I m so happy save me $5379 after four year later I did change one more time real smooth drive I still keep my car now 91000k
I hope you can save a lot of money and that for your family vacation
Thank
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
