E500 doesn't turn on 😕
Here is what happens:
-I turn the key to on position for some sec and everything ok
-Then turn it to start, to turn the engine on
-The fan starts to work but the starting motor doesn't make a sound and the car doesn't turn on.
So please if anyone knows something about this issue please help me. Cheers
Last edited by Kicost; Jan 4, 2016 at 10:58 AM.




Other test would be turning all headlights on and see how low voltage will go.
Welcome to the forum.
I think it doesn't has to do too much with the voltage because the battery is brand new and has the right voltages...
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Problems - immediately - alternator died. Next day - instrument panel died. Hopefully no other problems. I got the panel repaired and will reinstall tomorrow.




Problems - immediately - alternator died. Next day - instrument panel died. Hopefully no other problems. I got the panel repaired and will reinstall tomorrow.
I jumped several MB just fine, but with #2 cables capable of carrying 100's of amps. Typical (cheap) jump cables are #10 capable of about 50 amp.
Typical failure is that with small cables the computer initiate starter, then voltage drops, shutting off computers in the middle of cycle.
That leads to loosing rolling codes on keys and other electronic gremlins.
Did not hear that can fry alternator, but even so VR cost about $40 so that is not the biggest worry.
Proving the shop screw up something like that is not going be easy, so good luck.
Of course shop denied any culpability and said the damage was not related, thought it was obviously related as it appeared immediately after the jump.
Anyhow didn't mean to hijack this thread. Thanks.
Turn the key to the first detent with the display showing the temperature and push the little odometer-reset thing three times -- push-push-push -- and the thing will beep and show you voltage at the battery. "UB12.0" for example.
As to your underlying problem, like all things with that car, it could be anything. If it isn't insufficient power, it could be anything from the starter to the interlock that prevents the engine from turning over when the car is in gear. Self-diagnosis rarely does anything but cost you money in the end.
Find a good independent mechanic that is familiar with Mercedes and honest. Mine actually has my exact model and year, so that's helpful. You don't need some car salon, just a good mechanic. The two best in my area are at the local tire place and the local Gulf station, and they put the dealer technicians to shame with their willingness and ability to take the time to diagnose problems correctly and not just start swapping parts.
Last edited by wjcandee; Jan 9, 2016 at 09:06 AM.


Because they are salary and can spend 2 weeks working on the same car and still collect a check. Easy there killa....






My local dealer collected the payment for alignment, while kicking the car back to me with 8 measurements in red.
When I complained, they took the car back and hold it for 3 days, still leaving 3 parameters in red giving my BS about rusted bolts.
The only worse are doctors.


My local dealer collected the payment for alignment, while kicking the car back to me with 8 measurements in red.
When I complained, they took the car back and hold it for 3 days, still leaving 3 parameters in red giving my BS about rusted bolts.
The only worse are doctors.




