Kicost

Hello everyone, i was searching for solutions online and i found this forum. I got a 2005 E500 and one day it just not wanted to turn on.
Here is what happens:
-I turn the key to on position for some sec and everything ok
-Then turn it to start, to turn the engine on
-The fan starts to work but the starting motor doesn't make a sound and the car doesn't turn on.
So please if anyone knows something about this issue please help me. Cheers

kajtek1

Display car voltage on the cluster and observe how much it changes during the procedure.
Other test would be turning all headlights on and see how low voltage will go.
Welcome to the forum.

Kicost

Thank you for the welcome.
I think it doesn't has to do too much with the voltage because the battery is brand new and has the right voltages...

kajtek1

How do you know that without testing?

Kicost

Because i just bought it and the lights stay on for as long as i keep them on :/

SteveE400

I'm using Keyless Go, but do you need to have your foot on the brake pedal in order to start the car? If so, there could be a failure of the electronics in the braking system (brake light switch, etc.). If I press "Start" without pressing the brake, the car just sits and doesn't try to turn over.

cmriv

maybe you need a starter???? you could always jump it to verify it is good or bad.....

kajtek1

Jump starting digital car often ends with thousand of dollars fried electronics.
You better understand what you are doing.

Kamisama

Kajtek1 - do you have any good links describing potential hazards with jumping MB? Reason - a shop jumped my car and lots of stuff happened directly after as well as within a few days after. I'd like to print out the links, roll them up and shove them right up the guys orifice.


Problems - immediately - alternator died. Next day - instrument panel died. Hopefully no other problems. I got the panel repaired and will reinstall tomorrow.

konigstiger

See attachment for jump starting.

kajtek1

tiger posted the factory jump recommendation, but I would highlight the note about having sufficient size jump cables as that is main reason for failures.
I jumped several MB just fine, but with #2 cables capable of carrying 100's of amps. Typical (cheap) jump cables are #10 capable of about 50 amp.
Typical failure is that with small cables the computer initiate starter, then voltage drops, shutting off computers in the middle of cycle.
That leads to loosing rolling codes on keys and other electronic gremlins.
Did not hear that can fry alternator, but even so VR cost about $40 so that is not the biggest worry.
Proving the shop screw up something like that is not going be easy, so good luck.

cmriv

simple: take the wire coming from the starter, going to your front sam, and put a jump box is series with it..... ground the jump box with its negative lead, and tap the wire from your sam going to your starting with the positive lead on the jump box. If your starter clicks, you know your starter isn't bad....

cmriv

a wiring diagram and jump box and pin location in sam is all you need. I believe it's the big purple wire if i'm not mistaken....

Kamisama

Appreciate the info. I'd say the engine was hot and not sure of the quality of cable they used, but could have something to do with the damage.

Of course shop denied any culpability and said the damage was not related, thought it was obviously related as it appeared immediately after the jump.

Anyhow didn't mean to hijack this thread. Thanks.

Kamisama

Good info. Thanks. No luck with them admitting anything. I paid for a new alternator and repaired the instrument panel. If I had it to do over I'd buy a panel from ebay and change the data chip to make it work. That would have been way cheaper.

wjcandee

Meaningless. If you didn't fully-charge it, the fact that it's new means nothing, regardless of whether the store said it was fully-charged. They are 100-percent unreliable about statements like that.

Turn the key to the first detent with the display showing the temperature and push the little odometer-reset thing three times -- push-push-push -- and the thing will beep and show you voltage at the battery. "UB12.0" for example.

As to your underlying problem, like all things with that car, it could be anything. If it isn't insufficient power, it could be anything from the starter to the interlock that prevents the engine from turning over when the car is in gear. Self-diagnosis rarely does anything but cost you money in the end.

Find a good independent mechanic that is familiar with Mercedes and honest. Mine actually has my exact model and year, so that's helpful. You don't need some car salon, just a good mechanic. The two best in my area are at the local tire place and the local Gulf station, and they put the dealer technicians to shame with their willingness and ability to take the time to diagnose problems correctly and not just start swapping parts.

cmriv

Because they are salary and can spend 2 weeks working on the same car and still collect a check. Easy there killa....

kajtek1

My local dealer collected the payment for alignment, while kicking the car back to me with 8 measurements in red.
When I complained, they took the car back and hold it for 3 days, still leaving 3 parameters in red giving my BS about rusted bolts.
The only worse are doctors.

cmriv

Sounds like yall got some shytty dealers out there in cali....

kajtek1

Are they coming in any other kind?