2006 Mercedes e350 electrical issues..
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2006 Mercedes E350
2006 Mercedes e350 electrical issues..
Hi all! I'm new to the forum.. I'll try to explain what happened as best possible. I have a 06 MB 350 with 57k miles not 4matic. Just last Monday we got a lot of rain, to my surprise the street I live in somehow got flooded and my car was on the street and as I woke up the water was already to the mid of the door so I could not move it. As I sat there and watch the water go up the lights started to turn on and off on the passenger side. The water got up to
The seats but not all the way to the dash board. Once the water went down that same Monday I was able to vacuum out all the water and took off the rear seat and kept taking as much water as possible. Once I got all the water out I checked all the fuses and they all tested ok. I started the car so all the water from the exaust would not sit in there and the car started ok mechanical wise. The airbag light came on, also the battery warning light on the cluster came on and it shows 148f also the fan came on full speed. Also my radio will go on and off and the clock on the cluster will go around real fast. Also the brake light is showing on the cluster. The ac controls where working ok the first time but then the control stopped working. When I turn off the car the light will stay on and the radio stays on. The seats aren't working. Ok so far is what I found.
What I have checked. As I said I checked all fuses and ok, I checked the pre fuses in the trunk and the all show power, I checked the pre fuses on the kick panel passenger side and they all have power. I also checked the auxiliary battery and it shows 12.4 12.5 with car off. I checked the auxiliary battery relay and I'm confused because on one side it has 12.58 and the other 13.1 when the car is running. The alternator is only charging 13.1 13.3 max. I also checked the gateway module and it doesn't look as water got water in it. I'm not sure what got damaged that controls all this things. Any help will be appreciated. Oh and for those that may be asking why he didn't call his insurance, I did but somehow flood wasn't covered and I'm not the only Texan with this issue. Thank you all.
The seats but not all the way to the dash board. Once the water went down that same Monday I was able to vacuum out all the water and took off the rear seat and kept taking as much water as possible. Once I got all the water out I checked all the fuses and they all tested ok. I started the car so all the water from the exaust would not sit in there and the car started ok mechanical wise. The airbag light came on, also the battery warning light on the cluster came on and it shows 148f also the fan came on full speed. Also my radio will go on and off and the clock on the cluster will go around real fast. Also the brake light is showing on the cluster. The ac controls where working ok the first time but then the control stopped working. When I turn off the car the light will stay on and the radio stays on. The seats aren't working. Ok so far is what I found.
What I have checked. As I said I checked all fuses and ok, I checked the pre fuses in the trunk and the all show power, I checked the pre fuses on the kick panel passenger side and they all have power. I also checked the auxiliary battery and it shows 12.4 12.5 with car off. I checked the auxiliary battery relay and I'm confused because on one side it has 12.58 and the other 13.1 when the car is running. The alternator is only charging 13.1 13.3 max. I also checked the gateway module and it doesn't look as water got water in it. I'm not sure what got damaged that controls all this things. Any help will be appreciated. Oh and for those that may be asking why he didn't call his insurance, I did but somehow flood wasn't covered and I'm not the only Texan with this issue. Thank you all.
Last edited by Texan10; 04-21-2016 at 09:52 PM.
#2
I am sorry to say this, but you will spend more money on that car replacing what is now water logged, than the car is probably worth, if not damn near close. All the control units will cost you too much. I think you are better off buying a new car and selling yours. Merc's and water damage really don't do well.
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Do you have any idea how many network connectors are located under the door sills? Corrosion, corrosion, and water and contaminants short-circuiting the connectors. You also have multiple fuses and a Systems Acquisition Module located under the passenger floorboard.
You need to open everything up, spray liberally with contact cleaner, and let it dry in a hot, low-humidity garage for a week or so. You *might* be able to save it...but I would never buy the car. Flood damaged.
This will give you an idea of what you need to look for. Don't forget to pull up the passenger side floor board. Lots of electronics in there.
https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...ml#post6778562
Good luck.
You need to open everything up, spray liberally with contact cleaner, and let it dry in a hot, low-humidity garage for a week or so. You *might* be able to save it...but I would never buy the car. Flood damaged.
This will give you an idea of what you need to look for. Don't forget to pull up the passenger side floor board. Lots of electronics in there.
https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...ml#post6778562
Good luck.
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2006 Mercedes E350
Do you have any idea how many network connectors are located under the door sills? Corrosion, corrosion, and water and contaminants short-circuiting the connectors. You also have multiple fuses and a Systems Acquisition Module located under the passenger floorboard.
You need to open everything up, spray liberally with contact cleaner, and let it dry in a hot, low-humidity garage for a week or so. You *might* be able to save it...but I would never buy the car. Flood damaged.
This will give you an idea of what you need to look for. Don't forget to pull up the passenger side floor board. Lots of electronics in there.
https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...ml#post6778562
Good luck.
You need to open everything up, spray liberally with contact cleaner, and let it dry in a hot, low-humidity garage for a week or so. You *might* be able to save it...but I would never buy the car. Flood damaged.
This will give you an idea of what you need to look for. Don't forget to pull up the passenger side floor board. Lots of electronics in there.
https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...ml#post6778562
Good luck.
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Three SAMs. One under the hood (left side next to ECU), one in the trunk (left side), one under the passenger floorboard.
Do NOT sell the car without informing the buyer it was flooded. It will cost you money but integrity is everything. Sell it for parts or accept the challenge to attempt to salvage your car.
Put the car in a garage with a heater and de-humidifier. Pull the seats and carpet out. Remove the door sills and plastic covers. Individually, spray each connector with contact cleaner (search on-line for recommended brands or go to an electrical supply house and inquire). Pull and spray each and every connector (there are a lot of them!), let it dry. Allocate one day of your labor to do the above. Leave heater on high and run a de-humidifier in the garage for a week. Then reconnect the harness and reassemble the car and hope for the best. Allocate one day to put everything back together. Expect to need to clear multiple stored codes out of the ECU. If Fortune smiles upon you, you will have no current codes and everything works.
Seriously, this is what it takes with a distributed digital control system. Your car is a challenge but you should have seen the AH-64 Apache helicopter at Fort Carson where the canopy was left open overnight and a blizzard blew in and literally filled the cockpit with snow. The maintenance team managed to save that helicopter from the depot rebuild but it took an effort such as the one I describe above (only a week or so longer).
If you do not want to expend the effort, part the car out. Do not sell it to some unsuspecting individual who will only get a car with nothing but problems.
FWIW, I f**k'd up once and literally ended up pouring water out of my ECU. I caught it within hours and saved the car doing the above. Sooner is better. Corrosion is your enemy.
Do NOT sell the car without informing the buyer it was flooded. It will cost you money but integrity is everything. Sell it for parts or accept the challenge to attempt to salvage your car.
Put the car in a garage with a heater and de-humidifier. Pull the seats and carpet out. Remove the door sills and plastic covers. Individually, spray each connector with contact cleaner (search on-line for recommended brands or go to an electrical supply house and inquire). Pull and spray each and every connector (there are a lot of them!), let it dry. Allocate one day of your labor to do the above. Leave heater on high and run a de-humidifier in the garage for a week. Then reconnect the harness and reassemble the car and hope for the best. Allocate one day to put everything back together. Expect to need to clear multiple stored codes out of the ECU. If Fortune smiles upon you, you will have no current codes and everything works.
Seriously, this is what it takes with a distributed digital control system. Your car is a challenge but you should have seen the AH-64 Apache helicopter at Fort Carson where the canopy was left open overnight and a blizzard blew in and literally filled the cockpit with snow. The maintenance team managed to save that helicopter from the depot rebuild but it took an effort such as the one I describe above (only a week or so longer).
If you do not want to expend the effort, part the car out. Do not sell it to some unsuspecting individual who will only get a car with nothing but problems.
FWIW, I f**k'd up once and literally ended up pouring water out of my ECU. I caught it within hours and saved the car doing the above. Sooner is better. Corrosion is your enemy.
Last edited by bbirdwell; 04-22-2016 at 12:11 AM.
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
At this stage it's basically a ticking time bomb. The water will eventually corrode things to such an extent that months or years down the road, you will start to encounter electrical glitches not to mention the risk of mold in unlikely places. That's why you never buy a flood damaged car, it's only good for the parts that aren't really damaged by water. Also as a 2006, it also has the balance shaft problem unless you already fixed it.
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Just an update.
As I stated on my original post. I did call my insurance company and some how flood was not part of my comprehensive policy. As you all know we got LOTS of water in the Houston/Katy/cypress area. I didn't buy the car flooded it flooded outside my own house. Lots of Texans found out they didn't have flood coverage and I'm not the only one with the problem. when I came to the forum was to seek help to figure out what was under the carpet and where the modules were.... I'm working on the car and did take it apart to dry it all out and test the modules on it. The car does run and I was just trying to see if anyone knew where to start. Once again I appreciate all the input since the car only had water for 30 minutes max. Will keep you guys posted thanks again
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Three SAMs. One under the hood (left side next to ECU), one in the trunk (left side), one under the passenger floorboard.
Do NOT sell the car without informing the buyer it was flooded. It will cost you money but integrity is everything. Sell it for parts or accept the challenge to attempt to salvage your car.
Put the car in a garage with a heater and de-humidifier. Pull the seats and carpet out. Remove the door sills and plastic covers. Individually, spray each connector with contact cleaner (search on-line for recommended brands or go to an electrical supply house and inquire). Pull and spray each and every connector (there are a lot of them!), let it dry. Allocate one day of your labor to do the above. Leave heater on high and run a de-humidifier in the garage for a week. Then reconnect the harness and reassemble the car and hope for the best. Allocate one day to put everything back together. Expect to need to clear multiple stored codes out of the ECU. If Fortune smiles upon you, you will have no current codes and everything works.
Seriously, this is what it takes with a distributed digital control system. Your car is a challenge but you should have seen the AH-64 Apache helicopter at Fort Carson where the canopy was left open overnight and a blizzard blew in and literally filled the cockpit with snow. The maintenance team managed to save that helicopter from the depot rebuild but it took an effort such as the one I describe above (only a week or so longer).
If you do not want to expend the effort, part the car out. Do not sell it to some unsuspecting individual who will only get a car with nothing but problems.
FWIW, I f**k'd up once and literally ended up pouring water out of my ECU. I caught it within hours and saved the car doing the above. Sooner is better. Corrosion is your enemy.
Do NOT sell the car without informing the buyer it was flooded. It will cost you money but integrity is everything. Sell it for parts or accept the challenge to attempt to salvage your car.
Put the car in a garage with a heater and de-humidifier. Pull the seats and carpet out. Remove the door sills and plastic covers. Individually, spray each connector with contact cleaner (search on-line for recommended brands or go to an electrical supply house and inquire). Pull and spray each and every connector (there are a lot of them!), let it dry. Allocate one day of your labor to do the above. Leave heater on high and run a de-humidifier in the garage for a week. Then reconnect the harness and reassemble the car and hope for the best. Allocate one day to put everything back together. Expect to need to clear multiple stored codes out of the ECU. If Fortune smiles upon you, you will have no current codes and everything works.
Seriously, this is what it takes with a distributed digital control system. Your car is a challenge but you should have seen the AH-64 Apache helicopter at Fort Carson where the canopy was left open overnight and a blizzard blew in and literally filled the cockpit with snow. The maintenance team managed to save that helicopter from the depot rebuild but it took an effort such as the one I describe above (only a week or so longer).
If you do not want to expend the effort, part the car out. Do not sell it to some unsuspecting individual who will only get a car with nothing but problems.
FWIW, I f**k'd up once and literally ended up pouring water out of my ECU. I caught it within hours and saved the car doing the above. Sooner is better. Corrosion is your enemy.
This particular model does not have a module on the passenger side kick panel it only has a pre fuse there. From what I read it says it has one under the hood on left side one on the trunk left side and one on the dash driver side they are all integrated on the fuse Box. There is a pre fuse also in the trunk and there is a box called battery stabilization control that sits in front on the main battery. I don't know if it's ok or not since I don't have a wire diagram for this box.
I checked the fuse for the auxiliary battery and it's good it goes in line with the auxiliary battery cable. I will have to check the components to see what is good or bad but height of the water I don't believe the fuse boxed got damaged. I did figure out why the light was on when the water went up and it was because the module sits on the kick panel passenger side that controls the headlight. Once again thanks and if you have any other info about this I would appreciate it.
#11
Out Of Control!!
What company?
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Out Of Control!!
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Yeah, I'd call again and have them explain why it's not covered under comprehensive. That's what comprehensive insurance is for.
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emmy (01-15-2020)
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Claim with them. I don't want to loose my car and after a legal battle end up with out a car. So I took pictures and all in case they make them cover it.