Airmatic issues
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Joined: Apr 2013
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2007 cls550
Airmatic issues
Put this over in the CLS forum but applicable here too so will ask you guys.
Going to start searching but woke up to a front passenger shock down. I started the car and it cycled on and off every few seconds raising the car up a little but would not go all the way. I pressed the raise button and it didn't help. Dash just says raising vehicle. No warnings about being low.
I will search for troubleshooting steps.
07 cls550 29k miles
Ok weird. A gremlin is in there. I do some basic tests. I start car and try different settings. I press the raise vehicle button. I hear compressor and right front trying to rise. It gets an inch or so and I hear an air release. Then dumps back down to stops.
Here is where it gets weird. I stop car and check all around. Driver front and passenger rear normal but driver rear up max. I assume maybe because the front passenger is so low?
Then I lock the car with key and compressor dumps air all around. All four are low now and passenger front is lower than the others. It is on bump stop. I start car again and nothing appears to rise now. I hear compressor try again on front passenger but nothing.
Thoughts?
Going to start searching but woke up to a front passenger shock down. I started the car and it cycled on and off every few seconds raising the car up a little but would not go all the way. I pressed the raise button and it didn't help. Dash just says raising vehicle. No warnings about being low.
I will search for troubleshooting steps.
07 cls550 29k miles
Ok weird. A gremlin is in there. I do some basic tests. I start car and try different settings. I press the raise vehicle button. I hear compressor and right front trying to rise. It gets an inch or so and I hear an air release. Then dumps back down to stops.
Here is where it gets weird. I stop car and check all around. Driver front and passenger rear normal but driver rear up max. I assume maybe because the front passenger is so low?
Then I lock the car with key and compressor dumps air all around. All four are low now and passenger front is lower than the others. It is on bump stop. I start car again and nothing appears to rise now. I hear compressor try again on front passenger but nothing.
Thoughts?
Last edited by 95viper; Jul 24, 2016 at 10:19 AM.
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Why do you start new topic, when we have 100 identical already?
If you have easy access to SD, you can start reading the pressure raise in the system.
Without SD the easiest way is starting with compressor service/rebuild and checking for visible air leaks.
Again, lot of topics covering the issue.
If you have easy access to SD, you can start reading the pressure raise in the system.
Without SD the easiest way is starting with compressor service/rebuild and checking for visible air leaks.
Again, lot of topics covering the issue.
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Joined: Apr 2013
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2007 cls550
Thanks kantek1, After searching airmatic and reading hundreds of posts I certainly found basic troubleshooting steps, which I started, and I found many intermittent issues but I didn't read a condition like mine where one wheel started the issue, then another raised really high, then all went low with the one even lower.
I guess the raising really high is what threw me off. Sure wish there was someone in Phoenix who makes house calls with Star.
I guess the raising really high is what threw me off. Sure wish there was someone in Phoenix who makes house calls with Star.
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Try to understand the system. It is pretty complicated, with several items interlocking each other and no indication to driver what is going on.
If you found my topic about compressor service, I installed pressure gauge that will answer about 50% of questions that might come with system malfunction.
Not knowing how dirty is air filter, how much water you accumulated in the system, if the system hold the pressure or is having leak, what is condition of your level sensors.
We can talk for days about possibilities, but somebody needs to put his hands on the troubleshooting.
If you found my topic about compressor service, I installed pressure gauge that will answer about 50% of questions that might come with system malfunction.
Not knowing how dirty is air filter, how much water you accumulated in the system, if the system hold the pressure or is having leak, what is condition of your level sensors.
We can talk for days about possibilities, but somebody needs to put his hands on the troubleshooting.
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2007 cls550
Lots of testing today. Put front suspension on jackstands and removed fender liners. Started car and all wheels raised except passenger front. Lots of hissing around shock but soap in spray bottle test couldn't find anything. Compressor seems to be trying to fill it up and then gives up.
Soap test on compressor lines and valve block did not find any leaks. Car has 29k miles and everything "looks" new.
Maybe a dumb question here but wouldn't it be a cool test to disconnect the line at the top of the shock and put a pressure gauge right there? then I could validate the pressure getting to that specific shock
.....or is it possible to hook a compressor to the shock with line disconnected? I could T into the line at the compressor as I saw in my searches but curious if this would work right at the top of the suspected bad shock?
Soap test on compressor lines and valve block did not find any leaks. Car has 29k miles and everything "looks" new.
Maybe a dumb question here but wouldn't it be a cool test to disconnect the line at the top of the shock and put a pressure gauge right there? then I could validate the pressure getting to that specific shock
.....or is it possible to hook a compressor to the shock with line disconnected? I could T into the line at the compressor as I saw in my searches but curious if this would work right at the top of the suspected bad shock?
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Pressure in the main line is going to be the same no matter where, unless you have major air draw (leak)
I Tee the gauge close to compressor, but later discover the tubing going under rear seat, what is more convenient location.
Going back to hissing, you should feel air flow with your skin. Not the hand, where skin is hard, but with forearm. Soapy water works on bubbling but not on big flow.
If that does't work - buy a pack of CUBAN cigars and start blowing smoke.
I Tee the gauge close to compressor, but later discover the tubing going under rear seat, what is more convenient location.
Going back to hissing, you should feel air flow with your skin. Not the hand, where skin is hard, but with forearm. Soapy water works on bubbling but not on big flow.
If that does't work - buy a pack of CUBAN cigars and start blowing smoke.
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2007 cls550
Haha, love the cigar comment.
Plutoe, I actually think that I am 99% there. My last test is to try a compressor connection right on top of the shock. This is because it tries to fill it up for about 30 seconds right when I start it, and I think I feel air leaking around the shock, but the engine running with fender liners off moves a lot of air around that area too.
Having a compressor connected at the shock eliminates everything else. This assumes that I can figure out what fittings to use ☺.
I would gladly have towed it to a dealer for a real Star diagnosis but that would be $300 towing round trip and Star and I will save that as last resort.
Plutoe, I actually think that I am 99% there. My last test is to try a compressor connection right on top of the shock. This is because it tries to fill it up for about 30 seconds right when I start it, and I think I feel air leaking around the shock, but the engine running with fender liners off moves a lot of air around that area too.
Having a compressor connected at the shock eliminates everything else. This assumes that I can figure out what fittings to use ☺.
I would gladly have towed it to a dealer for a real Star diagnosis but that would be $300 towing round trip and Star and I will save that as last resort.
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Plutoe is known commercial scammer and forum clown in his free time, but he is right that SD would make the troubleshooting much easier.
Bad part that even after spending $300 for towing, $300 for troubleshooting - most likely you will get $3000 job estimate for replacing 2 front bags.
That is what Plutoe wants you to do.
Now- hooking up compressor to shock alone is not going to tell you anything.
You need to activate the valve on top of the bag to see if the bag leaks.
I recall seeing on the net options of opening shrader valve where air line is connected, or someone figured out wiring at the valve for electrical operation.
Still I think with you already hearing the hissing - visual inspection of the bag should be sufficient.
Bad part that even after spending $300 for towing, $300 for troubleshooting - most likely you will get $3000 job estimate for replacing 2 front bags.
That is what Plutoe wants you to do.
Now- hooking up compressor to shock alone is not going to tell you anything.
You need to activate the valve on top of the bag to see if the bag leaks.
I recall seeing on the net options of opening shrader valve where air line is connected, or someone figured out wiring at the valve for electrical operation.
Still I think with you already hearing the hissing - visual inspection of the bag should be sufficient.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2013
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2007 cls550
Dang kajitek1, I never even considered the shrader valve. Totally overlooked that on the previous posts. Thank you. Your information has been priceless.
I am back to more visual inspections tonight and trying to feel the air.
Thanks!!
I am back to more visual inspections tonight and trying to feel the air.
Thanks!!
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2007 cls550
Alright guys, 100% found the problem. Today the darn strut started whining loudly as it tried to inflate. I physically moved it around and it was changing pitch like a choking chicken. The bladder sounds like it exploded. I ordered from Arnett and used the forum discount. Thanks everyone for your help. I will search for install tips but it seems straightforward.
On a positive note I had time to replace both window regulators in my BMW and the kid across the street was helpless on a dodge crankcase sensor so I dragged some tools over there and replaced it. They certainly didn't make access to that thing very friendly.
On a positive note I had time to replace both window regulators in my BMW and the kid across the street was helpless on a dodge crankcase sensor so I dragged some tools over there and replaced it. They certainly didn't make access to that thing very friendly.
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From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Darn you. You found broken bag without $20,000 diagnostic computer 
Some minds will never get the idea.
I am happy for you. Still if you plan to keep the car -think about adding pressure gauge.
Some minds will never get the idea.
I am happy for you. Still if you plan to keep the car -think about adding pressure gauge.
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2003 E500
Airmatic Issues
Pull the codes and isolate the problem(s). That's what they're there for.
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2007 cls550
Finished this weekend with an Arnott replacement. Used the 9volt battery trick to release the air from the strut. Getting it to compress sure was drama. I popped the upper a arm ball joint to get the suspension to drop just enough.
I know the w211 and w219 might have completely different clearances but did any of you disconnect the sway bar? I was ready to do that when it finally went in after hours of trial and error.
Rides perfect now. Thanks everyone!!
I know the w211 and w219 might have completely different clearances but did any of you disconnect the sway bar? I was ready to do that when it finally went in after hours of trial and error.
Rides perfect now. Thanks everyone!!
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2007 cls550
Just watched a video and think I found my problem. I had the driver and passenger jacked up for testing but left on stands under the control arms. I should have jacked up the driver side by the body (like I did on passenger side).
By leaving driver side on the control arm I was fighting against myself. Sway bar was being forced up over there while I was pushing down on suspension on passenger side trying to get the strut in.
Make sense?
By leaving driver side on the control arm I was fighting against myself. Sway bar was being forced up over there while I was pushing down on suspension on passenger side trying to get the strut in.
Make sense?
