kajtek1

I never had to resych anything on W211 neither, but even if you do, it sounds complicated only first time.
I ditto that it should not happen with aux battery replacement.
On W210 done 2nd time it was about 1 minute. Most of the time to enter radio code, that you don't have on W211.
Windows and sunroof synchronization can be done during driving.

mzg23

so i just completed the swap, and had to synch the windows and sunroof however now my blower motor isn't blowing anything, and I wonder what I have to do now to get it to work any info on that? I disconnected the trunk battery negative cable then disconnected the aux battery connected it back up everything works but nothing is blowing out of the vents now

marc hanna

It sounds like you may have blown a fuse.

mzg23

talk about an easy battery sawp LOL. this isn't what I had in mind.

marc hanna

That's a bit of a peculiar result. I've never heard of that happening before.

Did you disconnect both batteries when you did the swap, or did you just disconnect the main battery to see if you could get the blower working?

mzg23

I disconnected both starting with the main trunk battery then replaced the aux. Here is the weird thing, I got on here to search for solutions when I went back in the car to try it again it worked fine drove it around seems to be working fine now, will report back if it quits again. I don't know why it did this.

mzg23

update.

so the fans do work however there is a significant delay for them to start blowing, they do not start blowing air right away as they used to at least not every time I start the car, some times it does it instantly and other it takes awhile. For example took it to the store after having it off for about 30 or so min drove to the store everything worked came out of the store got in drove home no air was coming out for about 5min or so then it started blowing. What could this be or cause this anyone? Thanks

mzg23

another update.

I have fixed the issue by removing the blower motor and cleaning the connections for resistor and fan motor, seems to be working great now. On another not I noticed today when i was changing my headlight bulb that the wires are exposed the rubber coating has completely cracked and fallen apart anyone ever notice this on their car?

mzg23

Here's an update for you guys.

MOVED OUT OF ILLINOIS!!

@ 124k Pass side upper ball joint, lower/mid replaced. both sides.

@141k Thrust arms. Shop price 700, did mine for parts price only, and 2 bolts on each VERY EASY job!

@153k OEM blower motor. Original gave out.

@ 183k Since then things I've done to the CDI that I can remember, ENGINE mounts (2x) once at 123k and now at 186k. (easy job in my opinion not worth 600-800 shop price.!)

I know that I am missing a few items such as wheel bearing (front) rear brakes, I did them however I didn't write down the date and miles. this job was more PITA, next time BUY FULL WHEEL HUB! easy job then.

I have a leak on the drivers side next to the fuel filter area, not sure what it is yet but I am working on figuring it out. It looks like its coming from under intake? its black/oil. I saw it uses a metal gasket? I don't know the name of this part or area but I do know what is causing the leak. I will tackle that problem next.

EGR still OEM.

That is all I got for you guys at this time. Anyone in PHX area?

jettskiman

I bought my aux battery at the local Honda motorcycle shop. The battery I has in my Honda Foreman lasted like 8 years. They are the best batteries. Just thought I'd throw that in.

mzg23

good to know, I don't remember where I bought my aux when it gave, but when this one goes I will visit a local motorcycle shop and ask them. Thanks!