I have a 2007 E550 with 106K Miles. It is past due it's differential and transfer case oil change. What type of replacement oil is recommended?
Thank you

 

I've got a 07 E550 4Matic as well. I did front and rear diff, transmission, engine oil, power steering fluid, brake fluid and coolant changes just after I got it.

I got the fluids from ECSTuning.

For the diffs I used MB 85w90.
For the transmission, I bought their oil and filter change kit.
For the transfer case, I bought the MB oil which says "ATF" on it. (The transmission fluid I used says "ATF 134" on it so they are different.

If you need part numbers I can probably find them as I have left over fluids in the garage..

 

P/Ns would be fantastic if you have them.
Thank you very much.
I changed the engine air filters, the cabin air filter, oil change with oil filter change. Once the weather gets a hair nicer I'll do the differentials and the transfer case. How did you empty the Power Steering Fluid?
How many miles on yours?
I appreciate the feedback.

 

For the transmission fluid, you can use Shell ATF 134. You can get a case of 12 quarts from a shell distributor, around $60. Much cheaper than ECS or the dealer. Check each distributor in your state, most of them have multiple locations and the shell site only lists headquarters.

http://www.shell.us/business-custome...RzL3B1YmxpYy8=

 

Differential 001989170310 (85W-90) is replaced by current 001989330312 (75W-85), transfer case 001989230310

 

Thank you very much Konigstiger

 

"I did front and rear diff, transmission, engine oil, power steering fluid, brake fluid and coolant changes just after I got it."


What Brake Fluid, Power Steering Fluid and Coolant did you use? Do you know approximate quantities?
Also what are the approximate quantities for the differentials, and transfer case.
Thank you

 

There's a thread around here with those quantities listed. Basically for the differential you will need to buy two quarts and for the transfer case, one quart but I think it's something like .6 quarts. For brake fluid, you can use Pentosin Super Dot 4 which you can get at Advance Auto, same with the coolant, Zerex G-05. You can use a discount code for Advance Auto that will take 30-40% off, just find the right code at retailmenot.com. For those other fluids, Ecs tuning sells them with free shipping, but depending on what you get, it might be cheaper at genuinemercedesparts.com plus shipping or oediscountparts.com which has free shipping on orders over $50.

 

I purchased my 07 with 114k on it for around $11k almost exactly a year ago.

I used Pentosin for the brake and power steering fluids. For coolant I used the blue stuff from MB dealer (part # Q1030004) and distilled water.

To flush the power steering, I removed the return line from the reservoir, capped the reservoir and connected some extra tubing to the return line to get it into a plastic jug. At that point, you turn the wheel lock to lock while adding fluid. You'll see the dirty fluid coming out of the return line into the jug and when you see it turn to clean fluid you're essentially done other than making sure the reservoir is topped off to the correct level.

For the differentials, I didn't want to use the 75w85 that replaced the 85w90 so I went with MB part # 000989280312. I believe 2 quarts was enough to do the front and rear diff.

For the transfer case I used MB part # 001989230310. One quart should be enough to do the transfer case twice. I did mine at 115k and I will probably do it again around 150k.

For the transmission I felt safest using MB part # 001989680310. I didn't do a flush on this. At about 115k miles I did a drain and pan removal to clean it out and change the filter. I drove about 1000 miles and then did a 2nd drain and fill to renew the fluid further. Once spring hits I will likely do one more drain and fill.

I've done a couple oil changes as well using Mann filters and Mobil1 0w40.

Aside from the fluids, I changed out the plugs with Bosch (0041594903KT4). I also did all 4 O2 sensors with Bosch parts. I replaced the MAF and MAP sensors with OEM. Both air filters were replaced (K&N) with Mann paper filters as well as a Cabin filter. I also did the thermostat and coolant temp sensor with OEM parts while I was doing the coolant drain/fill. I also replaced the whole PCV system with OEM parts. I did most of this as I was chasing a rich condition that was giving me a sulfur smell on acceleration.

Aside from all that, I did some piston soaks to get the carbon off the pistons. They went from a thick black furry looking surface to being able to see clean metal and the casting marks again.

I also rebuilt the vapor canister purge solenoid and replaced the gas cap as both were throwing codes. I had to replace the belt as well due to an annoying belt squeal and a AC pressure switch due to the AC not working.

All 4 rotors were replaced with MB parts from the dealer and I used Bendix semi metallic brake pads all around. I'm not happy with the pads and am considering changing them out with Akebono in the spring. It also got a set of Nokia Hakka R2 winter tires since I drive it in the snow occasionally here in upstate NY.

The only other things I did were cosmetic, changing the headlights to a DDM tuning 4500k HID kit and the fog lights to a yellow optimus bulb. I also did canbus LEDs for the license plate lights and front running lights.

Sounds like a lot I know, but a lot of it was unnecessary really and I did it for peace of mind. In total I spent about $3300, with the tires, O2 sensors, MAF sensor, and brakes accounting for a large majority of that.

 

rbtrjason, what is a Piston Soak? Did you notice, or expect any benefits afterwards?

 

Essentially remove all the plugs, pour/spray harsh top engine chemical cleaner in each cylinder, let sit overnight and reinstall plugs, drive it.

I was getting a lot of engine knock even on 93 octane. I think there was so much build up that it was increasing my compression and causing detonation. Like I mentioned the pistons went from a coating of thick black carbon to clean metal after a couple soaks. I used a borescope to verify.