Motor Mount Replacement - $802 !
11-20-2017, 08:17 PM
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Motor Mount Replacement - $802 !
I have a 2006 e320 CDI with 185,000 miles. Today I had the motor and transmission mounts replaced at my indy shop for $802. I was happy to pay that amount because last time they failed at around 90,000 miles I seem to recall paying the dealer $1500+/- for this job!
I see these threads on this forum about motor mounts, vibration, grinding noises, etc. DON'T ignore this because letting vibration occur over time will break other things.
In my case I didn't notice the increase in vibration over time because it was so slight until last week on a cold morning the car was chattering like, well like an old school diesel Benz and I immediately knew what was wrong.
I see these threads on this forum about motor mounts, vibration, grinding noises, etc. DON'T ignore this because letting vibration occur over time will break other things.
In my case I didn't notice the increase in vibration over time because it was so slight until last week on a cold morning the car was chattering like, well like an old school diesel Benz and I immediately knew what was wrong.
11-20-2017, 08:39 PM
#2
Super Member
Wow, the motor mounts are only about $70 each. Why did they charge so much? Labor?
Apparently theses are the same as the E320/ E500 engines. Glad you got it sorted out before doing any other damage.
Apparently theses are the same as the E320/ E500 engines. Glad you got it sorted out before doing any other damage.
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W211Guy (04-21-2022)
11-20-2017, 08:54 PM
#3
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jbeech (10-16-2019)
11-21-2017, 01:23 AM
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2001 E320 Wagon, 2006 LBZ Silverado, 2007 E63 (sold), 2001 E55 (sold)
My mechanic did the motor mounts on my E63 in about an hour and that included dropping the exhaust to make getting to them easier. I had bought a pair of OEM mounts online for $130.
You way over paid for that job IMO. Motor mounts are not hard to do or that time consuming with a lift and the right tools. Your shop may go by book rate though which is way off a lot of the time compared to how long it actually takes. Basically they'll charge you 3 hours of labor since that what the book shows it should take even if it only takes 1 hour to do the job.
You way over paid for that job IMO. Motor mounts are not hard to do or that time consuming with a lift and the right tools. Your shop may go by book rate though which is way off a lot of the time compared to how long it actually takes. Basically they'll charge you 3 hours of labor since that what the book shows it should take even if it only takes 1 hour to do the job.
11-21-2017, 08:18 AM
#5
Junior Member
A normal mechanic charges list price for parts, which in this case its $170 each, and around 2 hours per side. I believe that's book time. So he paid about average price.
11-21-2017, 09:08 AM
#6
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Thread Starter
My mechanic did the motor mounts on my E63 in about an hour and that included dropping the exhaust to make getting to them easier. I had bought a pair of OEM mounts online for $130.
You way over paid for that job IMO. Motor mounts are not hard to do or that time consuming with a lift and the right tools. Your shop may go by book rate though which is way off a lot of the time compared to how long it actually takes. Basically they'll charge you 3 hours of labor since that what the book shows it should take even if it only takes 1 hour to do the job.
You way over paid for that job IMO. Motor mounts are not hard to do or that time consuming with a lift and the right tools. Your shop may go by book rate though which is way off a lot of the time compared to how long it actually takes. Basically they'll charge you 3 hours of labor since that what the book shows it should take even if it only takes 1 hour to do the job.
You want the people with whom you enjoy doing business to remain a going concern.
11-21-2017, 09:09 AM
#7
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11-21-2017, 10:07 AM
#8
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2010 E63 AMG, 2003 E500
I bought Lemforder motor mounts from eBay for $120 and my indie mechanic charged me $350 to install them.
The transmission mount cost me $25 and I put it in myself in less than an hour.
The transmission mount cost me $25 and I put it in myself in less than an hour.
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Bounder (06-28-2022)
11-21-2017, 04:07 PM
#9
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Yeah, the transmission mount is nothing. I work on jack stands and it took longer to get the car raised than it did to replace the mount.
11-23-2017, 10:38 AM
#10
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Let's put this in perspective: I don't have a lift and the job was done in one day since I made an appointment to bring the car in. Taking time away from my business to work on my car for large jobs is poor financial management as my time has significant value. I use an indy shop that I believe charges fair prices and I want them to stay in business to continue the relationship we have. I avoid the dealer because they DEFINITELY overcharge.
You want the people with whom you enjoy doing business to remain a going concern.
You want the people with whom you enjoy doing business to remain a going concern.
W211 was the easiest ever to do MM.
But let me take it back a little bit. When I DIY the repair, I know everything is done right and I don't kink hoses on my way. Too often on this forum we read the story when car taken to shop opens whole chain of events that often turn pretty ugly.
Last edited by kajtek1; 11-23-2017 at 10:40 AM.
11-23-2017, 11:58 AM
#11
Senior Member
that's pretty good, for what you're paying for labor. I know some places such as the dealer would be 4x the price for the labor and parts. I did mine own which was not an easy task but parts alone was almost 70 bucks on two motor mount and tranny mount.
10-16-2019, 07:09 AM
#12
Member
So I've had the W211 to the dealer and in passing the service writer said the motor mounts were 'due'. This was about two years ago. So I inquire about the cost and after the smelling salts I gather myself, thank him, and leave. Next, I checked RockAuto for the price of parts (both engine mounts plus the tranny mount). Next, I touch bases with my MB indy tell him I have the parts and he says $1000-1200 for labor, so I pass. To be fair, he's experienced but he's definitely acting like I'm a know-nothing doctor or lawyer who just hands over his wallet. That, or he didn't want my business because I'm tight. Anyway, next I touch bases with my independent repair guy. Good mechanic who has race cars, mud truck, the odd '49 Ford restoration in the shop, etc. And he's simply a superb welder. Wife says 3-hrs if you bring the parts. I say OK, and $360 later (plus parts) I'm on my way.
Fast forward six months and better half says, "the car is idling rough at traffic lights". Sure enough, mounts have gone south. I'm like, 'What the heck?!?" So I go back to the same shop, new mounts in hand, $360 again, do not pass go. Six months later, same thing! Dunno what's going on. Could it be one of their mechanics levered them into place and pokes it with a screwdriver thus letting out the gel? Like I said, dunno.
Next I'm going to try this repair myself (in my defense I have back and shoulder problems so I pick my battles, especially if they involve working overhead). Note, my home shop is superb, e.g. 2-post lift, compressor, tools, etc. so it's not like the job isn't within my wheelhouse but more like I didn't feel like doing it. Anyway, I've ordered parts again (and I know it's mounts because each time previous the car is smooth as silk for about 6-months). So this time I'm doing it myself (although a good friend has offered to come over and lend a hand).
Meanwhile, I've been reading up and thus far, it seems like loosening the rack and possibly the tie rod ends and possibly a sway bar link are the ticket to avoid dealing with dropping the exhaust. While I am not averse to breaking out the torch to heat the huts securing the assembly together I'd rather not mess with a perfectly functioning exhaust system. Finally, any further thoughts? Specifically I note kajtek1 said his W211 was the easiest ever. He's experienced so I pay attention when he speaks. However, something he once said in relation to replacing the voltage regulator in another thread leaves me wondering if this was a car with inline engine or a V-configuration (easier to work on inline engines due to better working space). E.g. I don't know if he's in USA or Europe but regardless, I am encouraged he says it's an easy job. And anyway, I'll soon know. Any further words of wisdom?
Fast forward six months and better half says, "the car is idling rough at traffic lights". Sure enough, mounts have gone south. I'm like, 'What the heck?!?" So I go back to the same shop, new mounts in hand, $360 again, do not pass go. Six months later, same thing! Dunno what's going on. Could it be one of their mechanics levered them into place and pokes it with a screwdriver thus letting out the gel? Like I said, dunno.
Next I'm going to try this repair myself (in my defense I have back and shoulder problems so I pick my battles, especially if they involve working overhead). Note, my home shop is superb, e.g. 2-post lift, compressor, tools, etc. so it's not like the job isn't within my wheelhouse but more like I didn't feel like doing it. Anyway, I've ordered parts again (and I know it's mounts because each time previous the car is smooth as silk for about 6-months). So this time I'm doing it myself (although a good friend has offered to come over and lend a hand).
Meanwhile, I've been reading up and thus far, it seems like loosening the rack and possibly the tie rod ends and possibly a sway bar link are the ticket to avoid dealing with dropping the exhaust. While I am not averse to breaking out the torch to heat the huts securing the assembly together I'd rather not mess with a perfectly functioning exhaust system. Finally, any further thoughts? Specifically I note kajtek1 said his W211 was the easiest ever. He's experienced so I pay attention when he speaks. However, something he once said in relation to replacing the voltage regulator in another thread leaves me wondering if this was a car with inline engine or a V-configuration (easier to work on inline engines due to better working space). E.g. I don't know if he's in USA or Europe but regardless, I am encouraged he says it's an easy job. And anyway, I'll soon know. Any further words of wisdom?
Last edited by jbeech; 10-16-2019 at 07:17 AM.
10-16-2019, 11:58 AM
#14
Junior Member
So I've had the W211 to the dealer and in passing the service writer said the motor mounts were 'due'. This was about two years ago. So I inquire about the cost and after the smelling salts I gather myself, thank him, and leave. Next, I checked RockAuto for the price of parts (both engine mounts plus the tranny mount). Next, I touch bases with my MB indy tell him I have the parts and he says $1000-1200 for labor, so I pass. To be fair, he's experienced but he's definitely acting like I'm a know-nothing doctor or lawyer who just hands over his wallet. That, or he didn't want my business because I'm tight. Anyway, next I touch bases with my independent repair guy. Good mechanic who has race cars, mud truck, the odd '49 Ford restoration in the shop, etc. And he's simply a superb welder. Wife says 3-hrs if you bring the parts. I say OK, and $360 later (plus parts) I'm on my way.
Fast forward six months and better half says, "the car is idling rough at traffic lights". Sure enough, mounts have gone south. I'm like, 'What the heck?!?" So I go back to the same shop, new mounts in hand, $360 again, do not pass go. Six months later, same thing! Dunno what's going on. Could it be one of their mechanics levered them into place and pokes it with a screwdriver thus letting out the gel? Like I said, dunno.
Next I'm going to try this repair myself (in my defense I have back and shoulder problems so I pick my battles, especially if they involve working overhead). Note, my home shop is superb, e.g. 2-post lift, compressor, tools, etc. so it's not like the job isn't within my wheelhouse but more like I didn't feel like doing it. Anyway, I've ordered parts again (and I know it's mounts because each time previous the car is smooth as silk for about 6-months). So this time I'm doing it myself (although a good friend has offered to come over and lend a hand).
Meanwhile, I've been reading up and thus far, it seems like loosening the rack and possibly the tie rod ends and possibly a sway bar link are the ticket to avoid dealing with dropping the exhaust. While I am not averse to breaking out the torch to heat the huts securing the assembly together I'd rather not mess with a perfectly functioning exhaust system. Finally, any further thoughts? Specifically I note kajtek1 said his W211 was the easiest ever. He's experienced so I pay attention when he speaks. However, something he once said in relation to replacing the voltage regulator in another thread leaves me wondering if this was a car with inline engine or a V-configuration (easier to work on inline engines due to better working space). E.g. I don't know if he's in USA or Europe but regardless, I am encouraged he says it's an easy job. And anyway, I'll soon know. Any further words of wisdom?
Fast forward six months and better half says, "the car is idling rough at traffic lights". Sure enough, mounts have gone south. I'm like, 'What the heck?!?" So I go back to the same shop, new mounts in hand, $360 again, do not pass go. Six months later, same thing! Dunno what's going on. Could it be one of their mechanics levered them into place and pokes it with a screwdriver thus letting out the gel? Like I said, dunno.
Next I'm going to try this repair myself (in my defense I have back and shoulder problems so I pick my battles, especially if they involve working overhead). Note, my home shop is superb, e.g. 2-post lift, compressor, tools, etc. so it's not like the job isn't within my wheelhouse but more like I didn't feel like doing it. Anyway, I've ordered parts again (and I know it's mounts because each time previous the car is smooth as silk for about 6-months). So this time I'm doing it myself (although a good friend has offered to come over and lend a hand).
Meanwhile, I've been reading up and thus far, it seems like loosening the rack and possibly the tie rod ends and possibly a sway bar link are the ticket to avoid dealing with dropping the exhaust. While I am not averse to breaking out the torch to heat the huts securing the assembly together I'd rather not mess with a perfectly functioning exhaust system. Finally, any further thoughts? Specifically I note kajtek1 said his W211 was the easiest ever. He's experienced so I pay attention when he speaks. However, something he once said in relation to replacing the voltage regulator in another thread leaves me wondering if this was a car with inline engine or a V-configuration (easier to work on inline engines due to better working space). E.g. I don't know if he's in USA or Europe but regardless, I am encouraged he says it's an easy job. And anyway, I'll soon know. Any further words of wisdom?
10-16-2019, 05:06 PM
#15
Member
BECK/ARNLEY is the brand both time - note; I'm not a "buy the cheapest" kind of guy. In fact, usually the opposite is true with me generally preferring genuine OEM if I can identify it (RockAuto does a decent job of telling you if something is economy, standard, or performance - although, as usual, price informs me also).
10-16-2019, 05:22 PM
#16
BECK/ARNLEY is the brand both time - note; I'm not a "buy the cheapest" kind of guy. In fact, usually the opposite is true with me generally preferring genuine OEM if I can identify it (RockAuto does a decent job of telling you if something is economy, standard, or performance - although, as usual, price informs me also).
10-16-2019, 05:47 PM
#17
Junior Member
Yeah that's your problem. Your using cheap motor mounts. Give FCP Euro a shot i imagine you can get Corteco mounts (OEM mounts) for less than what you paid for the beck/arnley. Assuming you have a e320 w211 - i linked below to FCP
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...unt-2302400117
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...unt-2302400117
10-16-2019, 11:18 PM
#19
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
Yeah that's your problem. Your using cheap motor mounts. Give FCP Euro a shot i imagine you can get Corteco mounts (OEM mounts) for less than what you paid for the beck/arnley. Assuming you have a e320 w211 - i linked below to FCP
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...unt-2302400117
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...unt-2302400117
10-17-2019, 12:42 AM
#20
Read the fine print.
10-17-2019, 01:05 AM
#21
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
Yeah, just ship your old broken parts back to FCP, wait for them to make a decision on whether or not your parts qualifies then if you're lucky they ship you back a new part. Easy right? In the mean time your car can wait in the garage because you can do without your daily driver for a few weeks.
Read the fine print.
Read the fine print.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/page/lifetime-guarantee
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rodneypierce (10-17-2019)
10-17-2019, 02:16 AM
#22
Member
Come on guys! Point taken regarding this supplier and their warranty. Both companies have a decent reputation. Me? I always bear this in mind . . . only God is perfect; the rest are doing the best we can!
10-17-2019, 02:45 AM
#23
Senior Member
Did you actually read the fine print? You just buy the replacement part and install them. Then send in the old parts and they will credit your account back. Same thing that rockauto does If you have a warranty claim. You just have to pay for shipping.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/page/lifetime-guarantee
https://www.fcpeuro.com/page/lifetime-guarantee
10-17-2019, 07:42 AM
#24
Member
Common guys, we're all in this together with the common goal of helping each other. Please stop the backbiting! I know you may have feeling about others but I also hope you have considered how communicating through text is much less nuanced than face to face - and - slights in print are nothing, or even obviously jokes, when in person. My point? Cut everybody some slack!
10-17-2019, 09:58 AM
#25
Common guys, we're all in this together with the common goal of helping each other. Please stop the backbiting! I know you may have feeling about others but I also hope you have considered how communicating through text is much less nuanced than face to face - and - slights in print are nothing, or even obviously jokes, when in person. My point? Cut everybody some slack!
The FCP guarantee (it's not a warrantee) is completely worthless. Read the fine print.
Last edited by tjts1; 10-17-2019 at 10:01 AM.
