No fluid in caliper to bleed after brake job...
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 48
Likes: 4
From: Sanford, FL
2003 e320 w211 211.066/112.949
No fluid in caliper to bleed after brake job...
I bought this 2003 e320 w211 a few months back and it was fine for about a month or two before all hell broke loose. The car would jump into limp mode driving down the road and it would be hard to stop. I would have to pull over and restart the car to continue. Fast forward to today. The guy I bought the car from said that the front caliper needed to be replaced and that would fix the brake issue. So not knowing about MB I tried to do it the old fashion way with someone pumping the brakes while I loosened/tightened the bleeder until clear. I could not get any fluid. So I researched and found out you had to deactivate the SBC. So I purchased a iCarSoft MB II scanner and tried to reset the brake. I was able to deactivate it, I guess because it was already deactivated, but I couldn't reactivate it. I tried to use a hand vacuum pump as well but still getting no fluid.
I had posted this on another thread but I couldn't update the title once I had other issues fixed. This is my main issue ATM. (fuel pump & steering wheel adjustment fixed btw)
Update...
I was able to finally reset the brake only to have it fail again. When I ran the scanner it was actually holding pressure this time on all 4 areas and went through the full reset. Before the one I changed the caliper on would gradually loose pressure (bars) and it would not reset. I sat and waited for about 5 mins and everything was fine. Came back out 5 mins later and the brake chime was going off. WTH??? Too dark and cold to do anymore tonight. Back at it in the AM.
I had posted this on another thread but I couldn't update the title once I had other issues fixed. This is my main issue ATM. (fuel pump & steering wheel adjustment fixed btw)
Update...
I was able to finally reset the brake only to have it fail again. When I ran the scanner it was actually holding pressure this time on all 4 areas and went through the full reset. Before the one I changed the caliper on would gradually loose pressure (bars) and it would not reset. I sat and waited for about 5 mins and everything was fine. Came back out 5 mins later and the brake chime was going off. WTH??? Too dark and cold to do anymore tonight. Back at it in the AM.
Last edited by Beatz; Jan 4, 2018 at 07:31 PM. Reason: updated...
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 48
Likes: 4
From: Sanford, FL
2003 e320 w211 211.066/112.949
Actually...
Still new to Mercedes and not having much fun ATM...
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 48
Likes: 4
From: Sanford, FL
2003 e320 w211 211.066/112.949
iCarSoft MB II - Benz - Brake reset - deactivate/reactivate
It does, however it is not going through because of the pressure not in the FR caliper. The one time I was able to get it to reset that side held at 68 bars like the rest. Then 5-10 mins later it deactivated on its own and chimes and warning came back.
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 723
Likes: 32
From: Central Jersey
2003 E500, 2004 G35X
Do a search on de/activate SBC. This topic was discussed at length in several threads back then. You should be able to de/activate SBC without scanner because it was not available back then. I never worked on the SBC but I recall there were lots of good information in several threads.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 9,225
Likes: 1,798
From: V E G A S
1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
In the past it was not matter of deactivating, but avoiding activation.
When you push tow button, put the car to sleep and don't activate door nor remote - the SBC will not come on. Same with pulling the plug on the pump.
That brings idea of other option. You can remove the wheel on caliper with troubles, loosen the bleeder and hook up hose on it that would prevent sucking air back.
Then open the door and you should have splash of fluid coming out.
Do at your own risk, as this is not tested procedure.
When you push tow button, put the car to sleep and don't activate door nor remote - the SBC will not come on. Same with pulling the plug on the pump.
That brings idea of other option. You can remove the wheel on caliper with troubles, loosen the bleeder and hook up hose on it that would prevent sucking air back.
Then open the door and you should have splash of fluid coming out.
Do at your own risk, as this is not tested procedure.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 48
Likes: 4
From: Sanford, FL
2003 e320 w211 211.066/112.949
I've done research...
Do a search on de/activate SBC. This topic was discussed at length in several threads back then. You should be able to de/activate SBC without scanner because it was not available back then. I never worked on the SBC but I recall there were lots of good information in several threads.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 48
Likes: 4
From: Sanford, FL
2003 e320 w211 211.066/112.949
I think it was the caliper. I deactivated the sbc by pulling the plug. I pulled off the caliper and the plate for the piston was jammed in. The seals on my old one were good. It was the bracket boots that were bad, so I used the two to create a frankencaliper. Put it back on. Bled the caliper (two person method) and then plugged sbc back in. Started car up, no issues and scanner showed pressure at all wheels. Since I start school on Monday for auto mechanics specialist I will be sure to use their STAR to bleed the whole system. I'm sure it would be a good lesson for the class anyways. Only went around the block so far and all is well. Time will be the true test...
To be continued???
To be continued???
