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Showing where the strut bolts in the LCA. This is one of my main issues.
Okay. I have a 03 e500 .auto. Non-4matic. I started having trouble out of the front struts and absolutely HATE the way this thing handles. In sport 2 this thing couldnt corner with a ford focus. Soooo. To take care of all of that i got the set of bc racing coilovers. Comes with both front struts, rear struts and springs. Unfortunately with this kit, the control arms arent hook and go. So i had to buy w211 06 e350 rear lower control arms for the springs. My main question is, i have everything besides the hardware. Not a single bolt screw or nut came with. With the airmatic suspenion bolts be the same as its the samr design just airbags or will i need to piece together all the nuts and bolts. Heres pics of what im talking about and working with. Is there a assembly i can buy for all the bolts or is it something im just gonna have to piece together myself? Id appreciate any help. Thanks!
If I remember correctly, all the hardware will work. I'd advise on new OEM rear spring shims to keep the squeaks at bay & it may provide some additional height (although not sure on that one)
A few things of which to be aware:
The outer control arm bolt will interfere with the brake hydraulic line; this means you have to unbolt the brake caliper to get clearance to pull the bolt out (see photo) to remove the control arm. The caliper bolts are one-time use; purchase new bolts and a 12mmx1.5mm tap. Remove the old bolts, run the tap through the threads to clean out the old microencapsulation, and torque the new bolts to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs). Be sure to deactivate the SBC with STAR or by unplugging it at the SBC so you don't have the rear caliper pistons pop out because someone opened a door on the car. Be aware that when the old caliper bolts break loose they do so suddenly! (The front caliper bolts are 14mm and are torqued to 180 Nm!)
Also, when you go to insert the outer end of the new control arm into the hub, it is possible that the "press fitting" in the hub is compressed enough so the new control arm will not fit in. Tight fit and difficult to access, I had to use a miniature file to start a "ramp" of about 0.004" on the press fitting so I could get the replacement control arm inserted. If your new control arm is equal-width or narrower you should have no problem but be aware of it so as to reduce frustration. The "press fitting" is the shiny circle in the photo of the hub/axle.
The outer control arm bolt is a 10mm allen head IIRC.
Rear caliper bolts are: A 211 423 00 71, Bolt, Caliper to wheel bearing, M12 x 1.5 x 35
You guys are awesome! I appreciate the detailed responses. I will defeinitly keep aware of everything mentioned and buy what necessary. Ive started to regret switch just for the meer fact of all the work and money ive had to spend. Close to $2k. So i just want to make sure its absolutely flawless so i dont end of regreting it in the end as well. But i think it will be well worth the time and effort to put the thing on some real suspension and see how a mercedes should really handle.
Got the front coilovers installed. Went very smooth. Had more trouble doing alot less on other cars. Very suprised aswell as very pleased. The front had a damn near brand new arnott strut and the other was original. So glad i went away the airmatic suspension. But i do have a quick question the warning light on the dash for car to low. Ive heard there is a sensor i need to take out for the car not to think its still on air suspension and also what about the air compressor and the couple of sensors on the top of the strut towers under hood. Can these all be removed or are they still needed. I removed all airlunes from front and plan to do the same with the rear. I just want it to be as clean as possible and not just a bunch of wires and stuff sitting around. Any help with this part of the conversion would be awesome. Thanks in advance.
Front level sensors are attached to the upper swing arm. Rear level sensor attached to middle of rear sway bar.
Arnott sells the device to disable the warning light; does not BC? You can pull the fuse for the Airmatic which is fuse 45 in the front SAM; this will give you an error on a diagnostic system. I cannot answer if it will eliminate the warning displayed on the instrument cluster. Anyone else have info on this?
Thanks for the reply! Everyone in this forum has been nothing but extremely helpful and i appreciate it!!! But any way, i got the front installed and i took it for a drive with the coilovers in front and airbags in the back. Just wanted to see if i heard any weird noises up front before i stsrt the rear. But bo noises just a extremely smooth and agile ride, already. And thats at stock height. Also the "CAR TO LOW" dash light is GONE!!!!!! Im assuming once i lower it and take the rear to coilovers it will come back. Fingers crossed it doesnt but either way im going to pull the 45 fuse. And someone also said something about the #37 in driver floor board. Any idea?
Rear Control arm all unbolted. Strut, airbag, etc.
Old airmatic suspension
Bc racing front coilovers installed.
Top mount dampening adjustment. (Soft and hard ride stiffness.
Front coilovers, with tire installed on ground with airmatic suspension still in rear. Very smooth ride, very agile at all times. And not even done yet
The start of the rear
Bolt im looking for info on.
Update: i pulled the #37 fuse. I still have the rear on air bags and at stock height so nothing on the cluster seemed to change. I started tearing in to the rear and i have every nut and bolt out except weird huge star bit in the back of the control arm and the front bolt to the control arm that's a little tough getting to. I have 2 more questions and i think that will be the last things i need to get the e500 back alive again!!!!! First what kind of crazy bolt is the huge star bit in the rear of control arm. See pics. And also a 18mm socket and huge allen wrench for the front bolts. These are literally the last 2 things i hsve to do and everything should damn near fall right out. Every thing surounding is disconnected. Last pic is the star bit, i dont have a pic of the big allen wrench looking bolt head on the from of LCA.
You need a "Triplesquare" bit to remove the inboard bolt. IIRC a 10mm "hex wrench bit" is required to remove the outboard bolt (this is the bolt that interferes with the brake caliper).
You need a "Triplesquare" bit to remove the inboard bolt. IIRC a 10mm "hex wrench bit" is required to remove the outboard bolt (this is the bolt that interferes with the brake caliper).
Awesome had no idea what they were called so kind of hard to call and ask sround for just a big *** allen wrench lmao. Anyway thanks again. Last thing you say 10mm hex wrench bit for out board. Do you know the exact size of the triplesquare bit? If so that would be freaking amazing and i can get this damn headache. I mean car finally done.
Awesome had no idea what they were called so kind of hard to call and ask sround for just a big *** allen wrench lmao. Anyway thanks again. Last thing you say 10mm hex wrench bit for out board. Do you know the exact size of the triplesquare bit? If so that would be freaking amazing and i can get this damn headache. I mean car finally done.
Unfortunately, I did not record that info nor do I remember it as it was over two years ago. A full set from Amazon or Harbor Freight is not that much.
Thank you for the socket set help!!! Helped alot and finally got it completely finished. But just a tip if you were ever to do it again you actually dont have to fully remove the rear brake caliper just remove bottom bolt and loosen top and you can adjust the caliper enough to get clearance to the front LCA bolt. But other than that all super helpful. Someone needs to write up a complete review on this and save alot of w211 owners time and money.
Thank you for the socket set help!!! Helped alot and finally got it completely finished. But just a tip if you were ever to do it again you actually dont have to fully remove the rear brake caliper just remove bottom bolt and loosen top and you can adjust the caliper enough to get clearance to the front LCA bolt. But other than that all super helpful. Someone needs to write up a complete review on this and save alot of w211 owners time and money.
did you end up figuring out how to get rid of the “malfunction” message on the instrument cluster after the conversion?
03-05-2018, 12:13 PM
