E-Class (W211) 2003-2009

Shaking and Stalling when coming to stop

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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 10:04 AM
  #1  
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2003 E 320 Sedan
Shaking and Stalling when coming to stop

Hi Everyone. I have this issue when I am driving and come to a stop, the car shakes pretty hard. It does NOT do this while in park or neutral. Now, it has gotten where I begin deceleration from 50 MPH to a stop the car seems to struggle to stay started, and some dash lights come on. I put it in neutral to rev it up, and it gets better, but this has me worried. I am seeing so many things on the interwebs, and want your thoughts on this. 2003 W211 E320. I have read MAF sensor, Vacuum leak, PCV, CPS, and so many more things. There are no codes being thrown, and no CEL coming on. Any help is appreciated, or steps to take to weed out any nonsense. I am technically sound, and perform MOST of my work myself. Plugs changed about a year ago, and oil has been changed a week ago. Please help. I am so frustrated at this point and I am over this car, Has 175k miles on it. Any suggestions on the proper steps to take are ABSOLUTELY APPRECIATED!!! PLEASE HELP!
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 10:34 AM
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Hey Buddy.
Sorry for your troubles.
The first thing you need to do so we can help you is pull the OBD code.
I assume you have a check engine light.
If you do not know how to get the OBD code, you can go to a Advance Auto store or Autozone and they will do it for free.
Then report your findings!
It should be something like P000, a letter P followed by 3 numbers.
My guess is that you have a P0335 and have a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor.
Let us know!
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 10:58 AM
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Hi LexBrett2- Thank you for the reply. I do not currently have any CEL or codes, other than a brake sensor indicator since I changed my brakes and managed to break off the darn sensor. Gonna change that soon too. I do have a bluetooth reader for the ODBII port that uses the torque app, and it has not reported any codes as of yet. I will check again to be sure I did not miss anything. I will report back shortly on any findings! THANK YOU!
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 12:52 PM
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The intermittent start/stall issue is a classic sign of the crankcase position sensor failing. When my CPS failed, the car would be harder to start and would stall at times. I remember I didn't get the code until things really good bad. Have you checked pending codes? The good news is that the CPS is a relatively straightforward and inexpensive job DIY. Hope this helps!
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 01:29 PM
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Well that IS good news. I am really hoping that is the case. I won't be able to check the codes (if any) for another few hours when I am off work and get my scanner. I will post an update here when I find any codes. Thank you again!
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 01:38 PM
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Sounds good. If your car stalls or has trouble starting, it is a strong indication of the bad CPS. The idle may get weird and just feel like it is going to stall. It is very disconcerting. When the car does actually stall, you should get the code. My bet is on P0335.

And just to let you know, there is some relationship between stalling, the CPS, and temperature. SO if your car does stall in the middle of the road, give it a minute to cool down, and unless the sensor is completely gone, the car should start up. This happened to me when I was on the way to the gym with my daughter in the middle of the parking lot. I waited a few minutes, and then the car started and I drove straight home.

There are several very useful tutorials on the *interweb* and I can point you in the right direction. I think I made a tutorial a while back, and can dig it up if necessary. Don't get tricked by the dealer or bad mechanic on this one and pay $500; a Bosch sensor only costs about $30 and you can do it yourself.

Last edited by LexBrett2; Aug 21, 2018 at 01:54 PM.
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 02:28 PM
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Hi again LexBrett2- So upon scanning, the CPU did not return any fault codes whatsoever. I am going to try the suggestion for the CPS and see how that goes.
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Vai2kdna77
Hi again LexBrett2- So upon scanning, the CPU did not return any fault codes whatsoever. I am going to try the suggestion for the CPS and see how that goes.
It's tough because you cannot be for certain until it fails.
Have you ever cleaned your MAF and/or throttle body?
That certainly could be a factor, and if not, you will likely get some improved engine performance once cleaned.
Plus it is like $10 for the two cleaners.
Just a thought.
Another contributing factor could be spark plugs.
If you have never done them, now may be a good time.
A cheap maintenance item that should improve performance and/or gas mileage.
Pelican Parts has some great tutorials for the w211:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...Index-W211.htm
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 04:16 PM
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As others have noted, it's usually the CPS or the MAF but it could be one of a myriad of other things. I've gone through this a couple of times with no fault codes. On my W203 it turned out to be the MAF and on my W211 the throttle body was the culprit.
If you want to throw money at it blindly, CPS is a cheap, good start. However, I'd suggest you take it to the dealer for a thorough diagnostic and avoid unnecessary expense.
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 06:58 PM
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The problem is that going to the dealer could be the huge expense totaling more than throwing parts. How much for this diagnostic? $300-$500? A CPS is $30. Spark plugs $50. Throttle body cleaner $5. A MAF $80. You know? Plus with a car of those miles its good change them anyways
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Old Aug 21, 2018 | 08:50 PM
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I was having the same issue stalling or stumbling coming to a stop with no codes or check engine lights. I figured out after cleaning my maf several times that I wasn't getting a good seal from the air filter housing (The big plastic thing holding the filters) to the MAF. I think there was air getting in at the MAF. Try seating the filter housing a couple times to get a good seal.
Also, I think the shaking is unrelated to the stalling. That is probably your engine mounts.
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Old Aug 22, 2018 | 10:51 AM
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I am going to replace the MAF and CPS because it has 175k miles on it, and should be replaced anyhow. Got a solid deal on rock auto. Plus, I did the plugs about a year and a half ago, so the high end bosch plugs should last at least that long. I am going to clean the throttle body when I replace the MAF too because it could need it. Is there a write up on the engine mounts? How can I tell if they are bad or not? When I rev the engine the engine doe not move whatsoever. Any thoughts on that?
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Old Aug 22, 2018 | 12:55 PM
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Pelican parts does have a write up on Motor Mounts. I have not done this job, as it seems very involved and my car seems to run smooth. But it definitely seems doable and much better than paying over a thousand at the dealership.

I'm pretty sure air-fuel ratio can make the car shake from the MAF sensor. Whenever I have seafoamed cars directly through brake booster, the engine shakes.

By the way, have you located your CPS and have a plan for getting to it? In my w219 it is near the firewall, on drivers side, way deep down. It was hard to get to. That's the hardest part! Good job on finding a deal on the CPS and MAF.

Did you get Bosch? When my CPS failed, I bought a cheap one at Advance Auto since it was in stock and I needed to get back on the road.

Within a week the CPS was again failing. Them I bought and installed a Bosch and never had a problem again!

It feels good to do things yourself.

Last edited by LexBrett2; Aug 22, 2018 at 01:04 PM.
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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 09:54 AM
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Hi all- Lex- yes- I got Bosch for the parts, etc. I am going to install either today or tomorrow as work schedule allows. HOPEFULLY this will resolve once I install this stuff. I Agree 10000000000000000000% that it DOES feel good to fix things yourself. I once rebuilt a 2001 Land Rover front prop shaft (double cardon) on my hands and knees in the driveway. THAT, my friends SUCKS...Thanks again for all the input. This forum absolutely rocks!
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Old Aug 24, 2018 | 11:53 AM
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Looking forward to seeing how it turns out!
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Old Aug 27, 2018 | 10:26 AM
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Hi all. I stalled the MAF and that was super easy. Car runs a bit better. Could not get the damn CPS to come out. I am a big guy and my arms dont fit back there so well. Damn hard to get to. Anytjing I can remove to make it more accessible?
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Old Aug 28, 2018 | 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Vai2kdna77
Hi all. I stalled the MAF and that was super easy. Car runs a bit better. Could not get the damn CPS to come out. I am a big guy and my arms dont fit back there so well. Damn hard to get to. Anytjing I can remove to make it more accessible?
Hey Buddy,
Yeah the CPS is really, really hard to get to.
I used a 1/4" socket with a flexible extension, it took hours.
You'll get it off eventually, but with big arms I could see how it would be harder.
I put oil on my forearms to slide down there, and had lots of scratches, bruises, and cuts when it was all said and done.
Have fun!
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Old Aug 28, 2018 | 09:05 AM
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Still working to get the CPS installed. My buddy is going to come over and help me. I did get the MAF put in, and while it does run a bit better, there still is the issue that when I am slowing down to come to a stop, the car "feels" like it is going to lose power, and then it shudders and recovers but almost stalls and almost dies. Any idea what the heck that is? CPS issue as well? No codes being thrown, so I am truly at a loss. I am also getting a notification on the display that says "Battery protection convenience functions temporarily unavailable" Thoughts?
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Old Aug 28, 2018 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Vai2kdna77
Still working to get the CPS installed. My buddy is going to come over and help me. I did get the MAF put in, and while it does run a bit better, there still is the issue that when I am slowing down to come to a stop, the car "feels" like it is going to lose power, and then it shudders and recovers but almost stalls and almost dies. Any idea what the heck that is? CPS issue as well? No codes being thrown, so I am truly at a loss. I am also getting a notification on the display that says "Battery protection convenience functions temporarily unavailable" Thoughts?
I believe that "Battery protection convenience functions temporarily unavailable" indicates the battery is little low and alternator needs to charge it up. It does not seem like an issue to me. For example, when I plug in my OBD II scanner when car is on but not running, I get this message. Once the engine comes on, it goes away in a few minutes. Are you getting this message all the time?

My bet is on the CPS causing all your problems. It is a cheap and "easy fix". Next, I would look at front 02 sensor. Either way, did you change the plugs yet?

Funny story- My previous car was a c230 2005 Kompressor. I heavily modded this car including sway bars, throttle controller, tuning, Nitrous. Over time the car developed an erratic idle. I changed out virtually every igintion component and took it to several mechanics. Nobody could figure out the cause of the bad idle. I later sold the car partly due to this reason, and bought my wonderful CLS.

The other day I read that a tuned car heavily modded could result in erratic idle. With so much more airflow, the computer searches for an optimal algorithm for the air fuel ratio. When it searches for the solution, the car goes nuts.

My point is that these things sometimes can be really hard to figure out, other times they are simple.

Let us know how it turns out!
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Old Aug 28, 2018 | 10:50 AM
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Hey Lex! I am so eager to get this CPS installed. I too feel that it is the root of all this crap, and I did the plugs about a year or so ago. I may as well do them again, it does not take much to do them. Super easy.

Could coil packs be an issue too? Again, all this shaking and vibration is when the car is stopped but in drive. I do not feel it in Neutral or Park. I can hardly notice it in reverse, if at all.

I will go get some plugs and get that going. I will keep you posted. Thank you for all your input and help!
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Old Aug 28, 2018 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Vai2kdna77
Hey Lex! I am so eager to get this CPS installed. I too feel that it is the root of all this crap, and I did the plugs about a year or so ago. I may as well do them again, it does not take much to do them. Super easy.

Could coil packs be an issue too? Again, all this shaking and vibration is when the car is stopped but in drive. I do not feel it in Neutral or Park. I can hardly notice it in reverse, if at all.

I will go get some plugs and get that going. I will keep you posted. Thank you for all your input and help!
IMHO if you had coil packs that bad you would be getting a code, which you are not. I'm eager to hear the outcome of the CPS change as well. Even if it is not the CPS, it is bound to go soon anyways.

Other fun/cheap/productive things you might consider to keep ignition optimal:

Cleaning throttle body
Running Seafoam in tank and brakebooster/throttle body (usually would run through brakebooster, but if you have SBC brakes not possible).
Clean plugs with wire brush so they fire like new

That's what I do on all my cars, and should be especially noticeable with a high mileage car.
Good luck!




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Old Aug 30, 2018 | 01:41 PM
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Update ?
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Old Aug 30, 2018 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by LexBrett2
Update ?
hi there Lex. Ordered the spark plugs and should get to the CPS this weekend.
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Old Sep 5, 2018 | 08:21 AM
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So I did the plugs and it made a good difference I am going to get that CPS installed this weekend and do that final piece. What a hassle it is. Grrr. Update once that is done will follow.
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Old Sep 13, 2018 | 09:44 AM
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So I did the CPS finally and it made no difference. So in review- did CPS,, MAF and plugs. Cleaned the intake and throttle body. Still persists. A buddy of mine said his Cadillac was doing something similar and he had a bad coil pack. It did not throw any codes either. Thoughts?? So irritated by this.
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