Shaking and Stalling when coming to stop
Sorry for your troubles.
The first thing you need to do so we can help you is pull the OBD code.
I assume you have a check engine light.
If you do not know how to get the OBD code, you can go to a Advance Auto store or Autozone and they will do it for free.
Then report your findings!
It should be something like P000, a letter P followed by 3 numbers.
My guess is that you have a P0335 and have a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor.
Let us know!
And just to let you know, there is some relationship between stalling, the CPS, and temperature. SO if your car does stall in the middle of the road, give it a minute to cool down, and unless the sensor is completely gone, the car should start up. This happened to me when I was on the way to the gym with my daughter in the middle of the parking lot. I waited a few minutes, and then the car started and I drove straight home.
There are several very useful tutorials on the *interweb* and I can point you in the right direction. I think I made a tutorial a while back, and can dig it up if necessary. Don't get tricked by the dealer or bad mechanic on this one and pay $500; a Bosch sensor only costs about $30 and you can do it yourself.
Last edited by LexBrett2; Aug 21, 2018 at 01:54 PM.
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Have you ever cleaned your MAF and/or throttle body?
That certainly could be a factor, and if not, you will likely get some improved engine performance once cleaned.
Plus it is like $10 for the two cleaners.
Just a thought.
Another contributing factor could be spark plugs.
If you have never done them, now may be a good time.
A cheap maintenance item that should improve performance and/or gas mileage.
Pelican Parts has some great tutorials for the w211:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...Index-W211.htm
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If you want to throw money at it blindly, CPS is a cheap, good start. However, I'd suggest you take it to the dealer for a thorough diagnostic and avoid unnecessary expense.
Also, I think the shaking is unrelated to the stalling. That is probably your engine mounts.
I'm pretty sure air-fuel ratio can make the car shake from the MAF sensor. Whenever I have seafoamed cars directly through brake booster, the engine shakes.
By the way, have you located your CPS and have a plan for getting to it? In my w219 it is near the firewall, on drivers side, way deep down. It was hard to get to. That's the hardest part! Good job on finding a deal on the CPS and MAF.
Did you get Bosch? When my CPS failed, I bought a cheap one at Advance Auto since it was in stock and I needed to get back on the road.
Within a week the CPS was again failing. Them I bought and installed a Bosch and never had a problem again!
It feels good to do things yourself.
Last edited by LexBrett2; Aug 22, 2018 at 01:04 PM.
Yeah the CPS is really, really hard to get to.
I used a 1/4" socket with a flexible extension, it took hours.
You'll get it off eventually, but with big arms I could see how it would be harder.
I put oil on my forearms to slide down there, and had lots of scratches, bruises, and cuts when it was all said and done.
Have fun!
My bet is on the CPS causing all your problems. It is a cheap and "easy fix". Next, I would look at front 02 sensor. Either way, did you change the plugs yet?
Funny story- My previous car was a c230 2005 Kompressor. I heavily modded this car including sway bars, throttle controller, tuning, Nitrous. Over time the car developed an erratic idle. I changed out virtually every igintion component and took it to several mechanics. Nobody could figure out the cause of the bad idle. I later sold the car partly due to this reason, and bought my wonderful CLS.
The other day I read that a tuned car heavily modded could result in erratic idle. With so much more airflow, the computer searches for an optimal algorithm for the air fuel ratio. When it searches for the solution, the car goes nuts.
My point is that these things sometimes can be really hard to figure out, other times they are simple.
Let us know how it turns out!
Could coil packs be an issue too? Again, all this shaking and vibration is when the car is stopped but in drive. I do not feel it in Neutral or Park. I can hardly notice it in reverse, if at all.
I will go get some plugs and get that going. I will keep you posted. Thank you for all your input and help!
Could coil packs be an issue too? Again, all this shaking and vibration is when the car is stopped but in drive. I do not feel it in Neutral or Park. I can hardly notice it in reverse, if at all.
I will go get some plugs and get that going. I will keep you posted. Thank you for all your input and help!
Other fun/cheap/productive things you might consider to keep ignition optimal:
Cleaning throttle body
Running Seafoam in tank and brakebooster/throttle body (usually would run through brakebooster, but if you have SBC brakes not possible).
Clean plugs with wire brush so they fire like new
That's what I do on all my cars, and should be especially noticeable with a high mileage car.
Good luck!


