Hi

I just ordered the FCP Euro Kit for my Inner and Outer tie rods replacement for my E550 2009. Has anyone done the Inner Tie rods yet? I couldn't find a specific DIY and if Inner Tie rod removal required a special tool?

For those who have done it, can you offer some pointers?

Thanks
T

 

I have done it on my 2 W211's, it's pretty easy. You'll need some CV Boot clamp pliers and a tie rod separator but that's all the special tools you'll need. I just used a pipe wrench and a open end wrench to hold the rack side of the shaft to pull against so you're not torquing on the steering rack. I also did one side at a time and made sure the new inner/outer together were as close as possible to the old inner/outer as removed from the car so I could drive it to get the wheels aligned. I also put some blue loctite on the new inners where they thread into the rack. Take note of the torque as best as you can when you remove the old inners and apply the same when you put the new ones in. They don't need to be he man tight, make sure you have the open end wrench on the actual rack tightening and loosening so you don't damage the rack itself.

 

So to confirm, the inner tie rod has a male end thread which goes into the steering rack of the car. Once the boot and outer tie rod(s) are off, I should hold onto the steering rack with a pipe wrench while loosening the outer tie rod off with a open end wrench, or vice versa?

Thanks

 

The other way around, the pipe wrench on the largest part of the inner tie rod and the open ended wrench on the steering rack. I can't remember the wrench size but you'll see a machined surface that you can put the open ended wrench on the rack.

I remove the outer tie rod end from the knuckle, remove the clamps and slide the boot, then loosen the inner tie rod end and unscrew the whole assembly. this way you can measure how long the old tie rod assembly is and build the new assembly on the bench to the exact same length so your steering is as close as possible for your drive to get the wheel alignment.

 

Hey Craigc

I just got done replacing both inner and outer rods and the pipe wrench/inner tie rod method worked great! However, when I put everything back together and go for a test drive, (without having done the alignment yet), whenever I turn, the steering wheel doesn't "self-center" itself like it used to. Did that happen to you too? I replaced my tie rods with Lemforders. I am about to get an alignment tomorrow but don't know if the "self-centering" is part of the alignment issue. When I reverse, the self-centering works fine.

 

Actually no I got lucky enough I haven't taken my wife's E320 in yet for a wheel alignment yet as its pretty good. On my E550 I replaced the inner/ outer tie rods before replacing the ball joints so its a little out of whack. I think you replaced your ball joints first which makes sense. If the last wheel alignment was done with sloppy ball joints then with the new tie rod ends that could throw the "return to center" also the new tie rods are pretty tight so you may want to drive it a day or so for them to loosen up slightly. How did the old and new tie rods compare?.
My old inners and outers were really loose compared to the new ones and I noticed a huge difference in stability and lack of noise. I just ordered the ball joint tool you recommended and new Lemforder upper and lower ball joints for my E550.
This a great forum where we can all learn together.

Thanks
Craig

 

My old inners compared to the new ones were completely loose as I could wiggle them around, while the new ones I had to grab very hard and even lightly hit with a wooden mallet for it to move. I just did the alignment yesterday and the guys said the car was a "bit off". When they finished the master technician told me that I'd have to "break-in" the tie rods a bit for the car to "self-center" itself i.e. when making a U-turn, etc. I'll update in a few.

 

That's good news, thanks letting us know.

 

UPDATE:

Always, always, always have your alignment shop giveyou a sheet like this after an alignment: (Note: not my car measurements; only an example is shown)


I did my alignment at my local tire shop and once they were done, they said I was "all set" and I drove off. However, referring to the previous post, I showed the tire shop guys my E550 unable to "self-center" itself after each turns, even regular right, left, and U-turns, they told me this was all part of the "break-in procedure" of new tie rods. I told them I also updated the suspension with new sets of front control arms on both sides, and also sway bar links, etc. I noticed the car would "self-center" itself whenever I backed up, like backing out of a parking spot or my driveway. It only didn't "self-center" itself when the car was in "Drive". Thus, I ruled out the steering rack being the issue here. Trusting my gut, I still thought there was an issue because I had filled up gas twice already during the week, and drove almost 200 miles back and forth from school and the car still was having the same symptoms after it drove off the lot at the tire center.

Turns out, after bringing it to my local mechanic/body shop, they figured that the alignment done at the tire shop was WRONG! Furthermore, they didn't give me the alignment sheet showing "before and after", so who would have known the alignment was off. After doing a diagnosis, my local mechanic said the tire shop had actually made the "toe" to 25cm on both sides when the "toe" for my E550 should've been around 0.7cm-1.7cm (I recall somewhere around there). Toe was readjusted and all is good now. U turns, left turns, and right turns all turn very well. Car handles like new!

Moral of the story: Have a before and after sheet for an alignment given to you and also cross check work done at shops with other shops.

 

I had the same issue with alignment last week, do you happen to have the standard alignment specs for w211 so I can compare it to check alignment of my car?

 

Here were my alignment specs:
This pic was after the alignment was done (the second time lol)