My experience changing oil on 722.9 transmission
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2007 Mercedes E550
My experience changing oil on 722.9 transmission
Hi All,
I changed my oil and filter on my 722.9 transmission (2006 CLS500), and just thought I would share my experience.
Overview: There are six aluminum bolts on the pan that need to be removed, and the pan will drop. About 4 quarts of oil comes out of the pan. Just pull off old filter and press on new one, and clean the pan thoroughly. Put on new gasket and torque bolts to between 6 and 7 ft lbs using blue locktight. Use special pump to get oil back in and "level" the oil when transmission temperature reaches exactly 45 C.
Here is a the video I used as a guideline:https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...8&&FORM=VRDGAR
This is the kit I bought from ECS tuning:https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...2212770195kt2/
The special tool to pump fluid into sealed transmission: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../007311sch01a/
Interesting Issues/Challenges.
1. Seafoam Transtune. I pumped into the transmission 16 ounces of Seafoam Transtune as a cleaning agent. Some of you probably will think this is not a good idea, but I have had amazing results with this product. My previous car was a Mercedes w203 1.8L sport sedan, and it had transmission problems with hard shifts. When I put in the Seafoam Transtune, the problem instantly went away and the problem was fixed. From my understanding of how the product works, the agent cleaned sticky valves in the valve body and allows for the transmission to operate freely.
2. Changed the Oil. Twice. Since draining through the pan only gets about half the transmission capacity (4 qts), I figured I would do it twice since I had the extra oil in the kit. I also wanted to "practice" using the oil fill tool as well as the technique for leveling the fluid in the pan. Also, it seemed like a good idea to get as much of the Seafoam Transtune out of the oil. As such, draining 2 times would give about 75% new fluid mixed with 25% old, as opposed to 50/50 just changing once.
3. Torque on Bolts. I read on several webpages that the proper torque on the bolts is between 8 and 9 ft lbs. This information must have been incorrect. I broke two bolts at less than 8 ft lbs. The correct torque seems to be 6 ft lbs, of course using generous amounts of blue locktight. Removing the bolts was easy, suggesting to me the low torque spec not to mention that the oil on my vehicle had probably been changed before.
4. The Tool is Cool. The pump from ECS tuning worked great, and it was a pleasure to use. I was initially nervous about getting the oil back in the pan, but it was no problem. Also, measuring the temp at 45C to level the oil using my diagnostic tool was straightforward (see video).
5. Performance. The car shifts faster and quicker now. It was a worthwhile project, although time consuming and messy.
Please feel free to comment. Have a great day!
I changed my oil and filter on my 722.9 transmission (2006 CLS500), and just thought I would share my experience.
Overview: There are six aluminum bolts on the pan that need to be removed, and the pan will drop. About 4 quarts of oil comes out of the pan. Just pull off old filter and press on new one, and clean the pan thoroughly. Put on new gasket and torque bolts to between 6 and 7 ft lbs using blue locktight. Use special pump to get oil back in and "level" the oil when transmission temperature reaches exactly 45 C.
Here is a the video I used as a guideline:https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...8&&FORM=VRDGAR
This is the kit I bought from ECS tuning:https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...2212770195kt2/
The special tool to pump fluid into sealed transmission: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../007311sch01a/
Interesting Issues/Challenges.
1. Seafoam Transtune. I pumped into the transmission 16 ounces of Seafoam Transtune as a cleaning agent. Some of you probably will think this is not a good idea, but I have had amazing results with this product. My previous car was a Mercedes w203 1.8L sport sedan, and it had transmission problems with hard shifts. When I put in the Seafoam Transtune, the problem instantly went away and the problem was fixed. From my understanding of how the product works, the agent cleaned sticky valves in the valve body and allows for the transmission to operate freely.
2. Changed the Oil. Twice. Since draining through the pan only gets about half the transmission capacity (4 qts), I figured I would do it twice since I had the extra oil in the kit. I also wanted to "practice" using the oil fill tool as well as the technique for leveling the fluid in the pan. Also, it seemed like a good idea to get as much of the Seafoam Transtune out of the oil. As such, draining 2 times would give about 75% new fluid mixed with 25% old, as opposed to 50/50 just changing once.
3. Torque on Bolts. I read on several webpages that the proper torque on the bolts is between 8 and 9 ft lbs. This information must have been incorrect. I broke two bolts at less than 8 ft lbs. The correct torque seems to be 6 ft lbs, of course using generous amounts of blue locktight. Removing the bolts was easy, suggesting to me the low torque spec not to mention that the oil on my vehicle had probably been changed before.
4. The Tool is Cool. The pump from ECS tuning worked great, and it was a pleasure to use. I was initially nervous about getting the oil back in the pan, but it was no problem. Also, measuring the temp at 45C to level the oil using my diagnostic tool was straightforward (see video).
5. Performance. The car shifts faster and quicker now. It was a worthwhile project, although time consuming and messy.
Please feel free to comment. Have a great day!
Last edited by LexBrett2; 04-01-2019 at 10:56 AM.
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kjb55 (04-01-2019)
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Didn't you have converter drain plug?
My 7Gs do.
My 7Gs do.
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Yeah, I realized after I was all done that I missed draining fluid through the TC. My ECS tuning ATF kit came with a small drain plug, and at the time I thought that was an incorrect drain plug for the pan that they sent. Later I realized that it was probably the TC plug. Thanks for the comment!
#4
Sorry Im confused!! Does the 722.9 have torque converter drain plug?? From my researches, only the 722.6 has the drain plug, not the 722.9. Specifically, does my 2007 E350 RWD (with 722.9 tranny) has TC drain plug?? thanks
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2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
Did you have a Shell distributor near you? They sell a case of 12 quarts of Shell ATF 134 for about $60. Cheaper than most places that mail you the fluid.
https://www.shell.us/business-custom...r-locator.html
https://www.shell.us/business-custom...r-locator.html
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LexBrett2 (04-02-2019)
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
Converter plugs come and go.
From top of my head 5 G had them till 1997 and then they got deleted.
7G did not have them in early years, but they come about 2006.
Never hurts to check as draining TC is crucial in service.
Beware that 7G transmissions were redesign around 2012 and have different service recommendation.
I have 2008 who was serviced at 40k miles and I serviced it again at 180k. No change in performance and fluid was in decent condition.
On my 2014 transmission the inspection plate was at the angle since the car has parking brake servo. Made for some mess, but easy otherwise.
From top of my head 5 G had them till 1997 and then they got deleted.
7G did not have them in early years, but they come about 2006.
Never hurts to check as draining TC is crucial in service.
Beware that 7G transmissions were redesign around 2012 and have different service recommendation.
I have 2008 who was serviced at 40k miles and I serviced it again at 180k. No change in performance and fluid was in decent condition.
On my 2014 transmission the inspection plate was at the angle since the car has parking brake servo. Made for some mess, but easy otherwise.
#11
Converter plugs come and go.
From top of my head 5 G had them till 1997 and then they got deleted.
7G did not have them in early years, but they come about 2006.
Never hurts to check as draining TC is crucial in service.
Beware that 7G transmissions were redesign around 2012 and have different service recommendation.
I have 2008 who was serviced at 40k miles and I serviced it again at 180k. No change in performance and fluid was in decent condition.
On my 2014 transmission the inspection plate was at the angle since the car has parking brake servo. Made for some mess, but easy otherwise.
From top of my head 5 G had them till 1997 and then they got deleted.
7G did not have them in early years, but they come about 2006.
Never hurts to check as draining TC is crucial in service.
Beware that 7G transmissions were redesign around 2012 and have different service recommendation.
I have 2008 who was serviced at 40k miles and I serviced it again at 180k. No change in performance and fluid was in decent condition.
On my 2014 transmission the inspection plate was at the angle since the car has parking brake servo. Made for some mess, but easy otherwise.
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1922 Ford Model T / no OBD
I posted picture of inspection hole for my 2014 model in other topic, but that would not help you.
Inspection holes are quite big, like 4x6 cm so when you are under the car, you can't miss the cover on bell housing when you have it.
Just once again, they don't have to be at very bottom.
They are also used for unbolting the converter, so I can't imagine design without the hole, even when TC doesn't have the plug.
Inspection holes are quite big, like 4x6 cm so when you are under the car, you can't miss the cover on bell housing when you have it.
Just once again, they don't have to be at very bottom.
They are also used for unbolting the converter, so I can't imagine design without the hole, even when TC doesn't have the plug.