After replacing both front coil springs and outer CV axle boots I took it for an alignment. Attached is the result.
The mechanic told me that the adjustment bolt for the rear left toe is maxed out. He also said that the front left camber correction probably requires camber repair bolts.
Should I be concerned with these results or can I consider them "ok" and do nothing? The car is not driven much, much less than average. I don't feel any problems while driving.
If these need to be corrected, should I get a camber repair kit? Will it be ok to change just one rear bolt in the left lower control arm, or should I change both bolts in the left LCA, or should I change all 4 bolts in both LCAs?
How do I correct the left rear tow? Replacing control arm? The value is only slightly out of range. Is it important? Should I try to fix this?
Thanks.

 

I believe this is due to your suspension components wearing out. Rubber bushings deteriorate and ball joints getting loose. Replacing those parts are the only way to get everything back within alignment spec. However, the 2 items that are out of spec and not that much out of the window. I would probably just leave it as is, unless you want to start replacing all the various suspension arms and ball joints in there. if you plan on keeping the car a long time, then start looking into replacing the parts. A new LCA has 3 different ways to line up the bolt, so it can give you some freedom when aligning, but you need specific bolts that work with the LCA. But typically the middle normal setting works just fine as the bushing is back to normal.

 

Likely inner bushings are worn.

the cambers not that bad. If you want it perfect get both lower arm bushings replaced.

if you want a break for a while, a good 5-8k tire rotation should still get you 30k+ out of the tires.

im more concerned over the rear toe than front camber because toe is what wrecks tires, not 1.5deg neg camber. If it were me I’d get the rear tie rod on that side replaced and realign either now or in the next 6-months especially if fire rotations don’t always happen on time. Can say I’m guilty of this, but my alignment is solid after all front bushings replaced

 

Judging from passed parameters, you have 0.5' out of tolerance on camber and 0.5' out of tolerance on rear toe.
I would not worry about camber at all, while the small difference in the rear seems to be acceptable (at least to the mechanic).
Did the mechanic gave you estimate for fixing the issue? I am the one customer, who doesn't hesitate to ask them to finish the job.

 

I did the alignment at town fair tire. They cannot fix it. They sad they don't know how to fix it and I should take it to a dealer (60 miles away). They said, probably, I would need camber repair bolts on the front and new control arm on the back, but they are not sure.
I am skeptical about what they said. I can believe that LCA bushings are worn (though they seemed pretty good when I was doing the springs and axles), but I don't think LCA is bent. I have hard time believing that LCA needs replacement. Also, how would a new tie rod help? (Unless it is bent, of course). If the existing one is maxed out, the new one would be maxed out too, wouldn't it?

As you say, the negative camber can be due warn bushings in the LCA. My understanding is that LCA with worn bushings will "stick out" a little and cause the top of the wheel to tilt towards the car (negative camber). Is it possible to correct this a little by re-tightening the two upper control arm bolts making sure that the upper arm as horizontal as possible (i.e. the knuckle at the top extends as far out as possible)? How should I properly tighten these bolts? Maybe I should have tightened them under load? Can the upper 2 bushings (next to the spring, see picture) affect the camber or is it only LCA that affects it? Maybe I should remove the wheel, loosen those 2 bolts, jack the LCA to the position so that the upper knuckle extends as far out as possible and then tighten the two bolts?

For the rear toe, I see that both left and right are about the same, 0.34 and 0.29. So, this is probably normal "wear and tear", not a specific "damage" to the left side. Which part is wearing out to cause it? Is it the tie rod itself, the bolt connecting it to the hub, or is there also a bushing that wears over time?

 

I wouldn't bother with the bolts, they're not cheap and not worth the price to save the tires. It's a good mystery on the cause though. Usually it's suspension wear that throws it off but can't remember reading what it might be. But I would think standard stuff like struts, springs, control arms, call joints and tie rods would fix it. Old tie rods have play, new ones wouldn't. New stuff probably restores original height and eliminates play from loose parts so it's more likely to line back up.