Airmatic failure on one side?
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Joined: Aug 2016
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2006 e500
Airmatic failure on one side?
2006 E500 Sedan (RWD) 58,000 miles. Was driving about 100 miles from home on the highway and got the dreaded "STOP! CAR TOO LOW!" error message in red. Unfortunately at the time I was in the fast lane in heavy LA traffic and it took me about 2 miles before I could get off and then maybe another 1/2 mile to find a safe side street to park.
I got out to find that both passenger side corners were sitting down on the tires. Driver's side looks fine.
I tried cycling the "lift" button and could hear the compressor whining but no change in ride height on the passenger side. There was too much background noise to hear if there was a noticeable air leak.
Three hours and $800 later, I was flatbed towed back home and now I'm trying to get my arms around where to start diagnosing this problem. I've spent several hours researching and googling, but one thing I haven't seen is a reference to one *side* of the vehicle going out.
Based on my reading, I believe there is a "block" or manifold that supplies the front two struts and another manifold that supplies the rear, so it is a likely source of problems when you have both front or both rears drop.
Is there any similar problem that would cause both shocks/struts on the PASSENGER side to drop and not respond to the compressor?
Thanks in advance. If this doesn't point me in any particular direction, I'll be starting with the soapy water trick on both the passenger side struts.
I got out to find that both passenger side corners were sitting down on the tires. Driver's side looks fine.
I tried cycling the "lift" button and could hear the compressor whining but no change in ride height on the passenger side. There was too much background noise to hear if there was a noticeable air leak.
Three hours and $800 later, I was flatbed towed back home and now I'm trying to get my arms around where to start diagnosing this problem. I've spent several hours researching and googling, but one thing I haven't seen is a reference to one *side* of the vehicle going out.
Based on my reading, I believe there is a "block" or manifold that supplies the front two struts and another manifold that supplies the rear, so it is a likely source of problems when you have both front or both rears drop.
Is there any similar problem that would cause both shocks/struts on the PASSENGER side to drop and not respond to the compressor?
Thanks in advance. If this doesn't point me in any particular direction, I'll be starting with the soapy water trick on both the passenger side struts.
Last edited by sbsyncro; Sep 3, 2019 at 07:12 PM.
Senior Member
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From: Cedar Rapids, IA
2009 e550 4Matic
Passenger side rear is not dropped in that picture. Its simply sitting lower because the front is sunk. I'm betting on a front passenger air strut.
When you get it home, turn it on and try and listen for a leak. If none detected, spray everything with soapy water. Strut connections, strut bag, connections at valve block and compressor.
When you get it home, turn it on and try and listen for a leak. If none detected, spray everything with soapy water. Strut connections, strut bag, connections at valve block and compressor.
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From: DC Metro Area
2007 Mercedes E550
Your strut is blown. It should be replaced, and it seems to happen to almost all of these cars. If you are handy, you can do it yourself and save thousands. There are lots of DIY videos out there that show step by step. Feel free to PM me if you have questions.
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2006 e500
Thank you. Yes, I've spent the last few days watching videos and researching the various options (Arnott vs. OEM vs spring conversion, etc). Definitely want to stay with the airmatic system. Good to hear that its common for the rear to drop when the front goes (the driver's side rear is currently sitting about 1.5" higher than the passenger side rear, but it makes sense that losing the front would also drop the rear down some.
I'll bust out the spray bottle later today!
One question I have is which strut to get. When I go to Arnott's web site, the listing of options is confusing to me. Which car do I have? I don't have 4matic, and its not a wagon and its not an AMG. But the remaining 2 options sound very similar... (and I'm assuming I have ADS - thats the little "shock absorber" button that allows you to cycle through three levels of firmness, right?)
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Mercedes-Benz S430, S500, S600, and E320 CDI
I just looked at Arnott's site. Looks like the two options do indeed have different part #'s for the AIRmatic struts. Better give them a call to be sure. I've talked with their customer support folks a couple of months ago, and they were rather helpful.
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'71 Pinto
06 e550 non-4matic - as a matter of reference OEM front left 2113206113, right 2113206013; rear 2113201525, 2113201625 use these # to cross reference when shopping aftermarket. Check online occasionally vendors offer cheaper pricing on Arnott part #s also, I believe Arnott direct offers a discount to members check with doug@arnott.com
Last edited by konigstiger; Sep 4, 2019 at 01:22 PM.
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Thread Starter
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2006 e500
Thanks everyone. So the diagnostic procedure is confounding me a bit. When I turn on the key to position 2, I don't get any warning messages. When I start the car, I don't get any warning messages (despite the passenger front sitting down on the tire). I also don't hear a compressor running (does it only run when the engine is running, or should it run when the key is in position 2?). I had to drive for 5 minutes or so after the warning message - is it likely that I also burned out the compressor?
I know there's a fuse and relay somewhere that I suppose I should check, but I need better info on *when* the compressor *should* be running in order to get a more complete picture.
Thanks again for the help here. I'm watching online videos and reading tutorials, but for some reason I don't see any mention anywhere of *when* the compressor is supposed to run (ignition on or engine running).
I know there's a fuse and relay somewhere that I suppose I should check, but I need better info on *when* the compressor *should* be running in order to get a more complete picture.
Thanks again for the help here. I'm watching online videos and reading tutorials, but for some reason I don't see any mention anywhere of *when* the compressor is supposed to run (ignition on or engine running).
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2006 e500
Thank you! So it sounds like the compressor should be kicking on when i open a door or insert a key and unless it is VERY quiet, its not running. I do hear some sort of coolant recirc pump pushing water through the heater hoses (?) but no compressor running... Time to bust out the volt meter...
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MERCEDES-BENZ CL-CLASS
Arnott no longer sells direct
I believe Arnott direct offers a discount to members check with doug@arnott.com
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MERCEDES-BENZ CL-CLASS
Contact Arnott Customer Support with your VIN for Exact Fitment
One question I have is which strut to get. When I go to Arnott's web site, the listing of options is confusing to me. Which car do I have? I don't have 4matic, and its not a wagon and its not an AMG. But the remaining 2 options sound very similar... (and I'm assuming I have ADS - thats the little "shock absorber" button that allows you to cycle through three levels of firmness, right?)
- In the EU, Russia, Middle East and Africa: https://www.arnotteurope.com/contacts
- In North America (and other regions not covered by Arnott Europe): https://www.arnottindustries.com/contacts
Thread Starter
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2006 e500
Yes, Mercedes did offer a bunch of suspension options and different OE numbers. Call or contact Arnott online with your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) and customer support can quickly do a search to determine the exact model and correct part for your vehicle.
- In the EU, Russia, Middle East and Africa: https://www.arnotteurope.com/contacts
- In North America (and other regions not covered by Arnott Europe): https://www.arnottindustries.com/contacts
Looks like I burned out the compressor/pump (its not running at all), so I guess I have to replace that before I can diagnose which strut is bad. Fuse #45 has continuity, but I dont' really know how to test the pump other than that... Two hours of Google-fu and I'm no better informed on this specific question...
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2006 e500
Thank you for providing this information. I've determined that I don't have voltage to the compressor when the system activates, so I'm moving my way "upstream" so to speak to see if there is a bad fuse or relay. I've now verified that there is 12v at fuse F74 in the fuse under the passenger footwell, which I assume means that the fuse is good (inspection with flashlight and mirror shows that the fuse does not appear to be burnt out).
I inserted my voltmeter probe into the lead coming out of the blue connector indicated below the yellow highlight above.
Are there other fuses anywhere else that control voltage to the compressor?
Thank you again!
Last edited by sbsyncro; Sep 6, 2019 at 06:50 PM.
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2006 e500
OK I just checked the fuse #37 inside the panel on the driver's side and it is fine, also...
Checking that now - trying to figure out how in God's Green Earth you remove it without completely disassembling the windshield cowl - its tucked in underneath and there's no way for me to get to it.
I used to like working on this car, but I have to admit now I'm getting really frustrated....
Checking that now - trying to figure out how in God's Green Earth you remove it without completely disassembling the windshield cowl - its tucked in underneath and there's no way for me to get to it.
I used to like working on this car, but I have to admit now I'm getting really frustrated....
Last edited by sbsyncro; Sep 6, 2019 at 07:35 PM.
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2006 e500
Update: With the help of the iCarsoft MBII I verified that the relay was opening and closing and was also able to get the compressor to fire up by bleeding off some air from the tank; All level sensors are reporting data (which then updates based on actual level as tested using floor jack) The driver's side pumped back up when the engine was running. I could hear pressure leaking from the passenger side front wheel well & I sprayed soapy water on the top (where the air tube attaches) but it sounds like its leaking from somewhere lower down. The air escaped so quickly I wan't able to pinpoint the source.
My plan is to trace the line from the manifold to the strut to make 100% sure it isn't the line. I'm assuming once I verify that, its time to order a new strut (or actually a pair of them). Thanks for everyone's help so far.
My plan is to trace the line from the manifold to the strut to make 100% sure it isn't the line. I'm assuming once I verify that, its time to order a new strut (or actually a pair of them). Thanks for everyone's help so far.
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Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Cedar Rapids, IA
2009 e550 4Matic
Update: With the help of the iCarsoft MBII I verified that the relay was opening and closing and was also able to get the compressor to fire up by bleeding off some air from the tank; All level sensors are reporting data (which then updates based on actual level as tested using floor jack) The driver's side pumped back up when the engine was running. I could hear pressure leaking from the passenger side front wheel well & I sprayed soapy water on the top (where the air tube attaches) but it sounds like its leaking from somewhere lower down. The air escaped so quickly I wan't able to pinpoint the source.
My plan is to trace the line from the manifold to the strut to make 100% sure it isn't the line. I'm assuming once I verify that, its time to order a new strut (or actually a pair of them). Thanks for everyone's help so far.
My plan is to trace the line from the manifold to the strut to make 100% sure it isn't the line. I'm assuming once I verify that, its time to order a new strut (or actually a pair of them). Thanks for everyone's help so far.
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Joined: Dec 2013
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E320 CDI
Update: With the help of the iCarsoft MBII I verified that the relay was opening and closing and was also able to get the compressor to fire up by bleeding off some air from the tank; All level sensors are reporting data (which then updates based on actual level as tested using floor jack) The driver's side pumped back up when the engine was running. I could hear pressure leaking from the passenger side front wheel well & I sprayed soapy water on the top (where the air tube attaches) but it sounds like its leaking from somewhere lower down. The air escaped so quickly I wan't able to pinpoint the source.
My plan is to trace the line from the manifold to the strut to make 100% sure it isn't the line. I'm assuming once I verify that, its time to order a new strut (or actually a pair of them). Thanks for everyone's help so far.
My plan is to trace the line from the manifold to the strut to make 100% sure it isn't the line. I'm assuming once I verify that, its time to order a new strut (or actually a pair of them). Thanks for everyone's help so far.
Last edited by scotty68; Oct 20, 2019 at 09:30 PM.
