So my hydraulic lifters starting ticking in my 100k miles cls55 amg 1500 miles after buying the car. Before replacing the lifters I am going to check the oil pressure and also add a gauge. After searching for a while and sorting through manny flawwed and innaccurate listings on amazon for thread sized I found the correct pieces needed for my gauge install. I will link the 4 total parts needed for the oil press gauge install that I bought.

First off the mercedes (female) socket is m12x1.5 size. So I had to get a (male to male) adaptor from m12x1.5 to -4 AN. Then a (double female) oil line hose from -4n to 4n. Then finally a (Female) 1/8 NPT to AN4 (Male Thread), Then finally the 1/8npt male Oil Gauge.

I will link the 4 parts below in order from the adaptor to the block to the line hose to the 2nd adaptor then to the gauge itself. Information on how to get an oil pressure gauge is impossible to find online only 1 guy shows how so I had to figure this out myself, I just bought th parts 1hour ago so once the parts get here Ill update this, critique me if you think these parts wont work, this is the best I could find. all together this cost me around 100$ for these 4 parts. -Nick

1.Black Anodized Aluminum Male Flare AN TO Male Metric Thread Straight Pipe Adapter, Fuel Fitting, -4 AN to M12x1.5
2.ICT Billet Steel Braided Turbo Oil Feed Line 48" Length -4AN 90 degree straight Hose End Pressure Stainless Remote Turbocharger Sensor Teflon 4 AN 551867
3.Aluminum Female 1/8" NPT to 4 AN Male Expander, Female 1/8 NPT to AN4 Male Thread Expand Adaptor, Black
4.2" 52mm Digital & Pointer 7 Color LED 0-100 Psi Oil Pressure Gauge Meter +Sensorhttps://www.ebay.com/itm/2-52mm-Digi...MAAOSwmnxdiIew

 

bump, still waiting for the gauge but this is needed in the m113k engine since it has no oil pressure sensor.

 

Hey any update on this? my e55 is in the shop right now diagnosing this tick and i had the same exact thought, install a gauge and see if its the lifters. Do you know how much a typical valve job costs at a shop?

Thanks

 

So I installed the oil pressure gauge and replaced the waterpump pulley and tensioner pulley and the car still ticks. The oil pressure gauge reads around 10psi at idle which seems really low and the engine still ticks(hydraulic lifters), When I rev the car to 3k rpm the ticking stops every single time, its as if the oil pump gets enough pressure to reach the top of the engine but any rpm less than 3k still has ticking.

So my question is can I remove the oil pump while the engine is still in the car? I am sure I can if I were to drop the subframe, but If anyone has done it before just let me know please. There is basicly only 1 person (in the world) that has documented removing it and that is the guy with the youtube channel SK8215, I already tried asking him about the oil pump** and even the correct oil pressure** but he hasint gotten back to me. So if there is anyone else that has done this or knows an answer to any of my questions let me know please thank you very much.

 

Thanks for the update, i ended up buying all of the exact same components you did! they all just showed up the other day - did you get it to work with just whats listed above? can you open up the pressure port on the block without draining the oil?
can you post a few pics of the install? would love to see it, where'd you put the gauge?

I read that you can get the oil pump out by raising the car and dropping the oil pan - BUTTT it will be impossible to reseal the oil pan becuase the car endlessly leaks oil. someone said he let the car sit for a week and it was still dripping oil on the oil pan when he was trying to reseal it. I have the same exact tick and it pisses me off! mine sounds like its coming from the bottom of the engine, if you put your ear up to the driver wheel well you can hear it the clearest.

-Ryan

 

My friend you and I are brothers with this same issue, first off the gauge can be installed without draining any oil, it also wont leak any. The gauge is in the car and works flawlessly,i also used the small battery in the top left of the engine bay to power the electric gauge. I did not wire the gauge to be inside the car yet so it is sitting zip tied inside the bay, but I will take pics when it is done to help you and others out.

I have looked EVERYWHERE to attempt to figure out if I can get to the oil pump while the engine is still in the car the closest I got to figureing this out is from K8215 youtube channel where he has the engine outside the car and he shows how to take off the bottom oil pan and eventually gets the pump out, so to me I think even if the subframe needs to be moved slightly I should be able to get to the oil pan, if I can see the full bottom part of the oil pan and am able to access each screw I should be able to take it out without taking out the enitre engine.

The tick you describe is almost the exact same as I have, I hear it throughout the revs until 3k rpm then you can feel(from the petal) and the sound that the sound goes away instantly everytime when hitting 3k rpm(do me a favor and rev to 3k in park and tell me if the sound goes away like mine)*, but I mainly hear the ticking from the bottom of the engine right next to the drivers wheel(i also kinda hear it on the top of the engine) but mainly from the drivers side tire. Let me know about the sound at 3k rpm in your car this might help me and you solve this problem .

People are telling me it could be the oil pump O ring or the oil pump chain, and honestly I am really unsure which it could be I just want to fix the problem. GL friend.

 

Guys, did you ever find the culprit to what was causing the problem? My guess would have been the oil pump O ring but I'm interested to know for certain. Thank you!

 

we took the oil pan off from the bottom 3 days ago and found rtv oil pan sealent all over the bottom and inside the oil pump as well as the pickup tube, also the oring was loose where it connects. Now the oil pressure is reading fine never drops below 12psi but still ticks but less than before and its coming from the lifters or rocker arms. We just got new lifters and will clean all the rockers and replace more lifters to attempt to fix this problem once and for all. But yes the pump had some major issues in this car due to the o ring and the idiot before me getting plastic all inside the unit and pickup.ill update after we clean and replace the lifters again..

 

Thanks for the update! A couple questions and a couple comments:
- Can you replace the oil pump by just taking off the belly pan?
- How did you go about resealing the oil pan when you were done? did you do this with the engine in the car or did you flip the block?
- Any pics you could share?

If you hear ticking coming from the valves that is a different issue, as im sure you may know these cars have hydraulic lifters and they tend to fail and fill with fluid (my car is experiencing this right now @ 86,000 Miles) the lifters become solid and the ticking you hear is them not compressing - looks pretty easy to replace.

I also read online that the timing chain tensioners are hydraulic and when your oil pressure drops (rear main seal issue or faulty pump) then the chains relax and there's one spot where the chain ever so slightly nicks the webbing of the case and you hear the *tick tick tick* i saw a post where the guy showed how he used a dremel to grind back the case and he replaced the tensioner but i cant find the forum. I just havnt been able to figure out if the timing cover can come off and everything can be done - with the engine in the car, if it can be i think it could be fixed for the price of new tensioners & gaskets, maybe a pump & then just a lot of labor!
- Ryan

 

Thanks for the update! For now, I'm installing an oil pressure gauge to keep a close eye on consistent pressure. I've worked on quite a few M113's while in and out of the car. The upper oil pan was easy to do on a rotating engine stand and not too difficult with a hoist. Having said that, the M113 doesn't have the long dual sump lower oil pan that goes over the subframe. At the end of the day, we gotta do what we gotta do or the motor gets destroyed!

 

hey did yall ever figure this out having the same issue on my built e55.