Order55

Hi All,
After doing extensive research on the forums for the Halogen to Bi-Xenon projector retrofit, I gained a lot of confidence and thought the project should be relatively easy. With everything laid out, I am worried I may have bitten off more than I could chew, but at the same time feel like I am like 95% there. After tearing everything apart, I discover the halogen lights had already been converted to LED's but the throw on the lights was terrible. I am not an electrical or wiring subject matter expert by any means, but with the LED conversion, I am worried the wiring has already been changed and my starting point is not the same as I've based my research.

Car: 2004 E55 AMG
Factory Lights: Halogen H7 Projectors

What I bought:
- EvoXR 2 Bi-Xenon Projectors
- Morimoto Elite D2S Kit - XB35 (includes H7 canbus)
- H7 > 9006/9006F Splitters
- (I also got two addtional H7/9006 splitters by mistake I believe, or possibly test leads? I have no idea)

Some concerns:
- The splitter to H7 connection is very very loose on the factory H7 connector
- Looking at the interior headlight shot, is that the factory wiring? Only the MOLEX connector has a plug? The amp connector was connected on the outside of the headlight when I was disconnecting everything, but looking inside there is no plug or wiring that it could possible be connecting to and is just a hollow port.

I am hesitant to plug in everything and go on the car, and genuinely unsure of how I bench test/where I connect to. I have reached out to a few forum members for help on this process and try to clear this up with independent research of my own, but I am racking my brain at this point making no progress. Any help you guys can provide is genuinely appreciated.

HardmanGT

I have done this exact retrofit and am remembering a few small details. I had the same issue with the loose connection. I recall depinning the connector and giving the terminals a little squeeze with players to tighten everything up.

I also know that I mounted the larger box to the bottom of the headlight assembly. I may have mounted both boxes there but can’t recall at the moment.

I used a large hole saw to cut out the igniter grommet hole, also in the bottom of the assembly

I recall cutting a slit in the igniter grommet to pass the H7 adapter through. The grommet sealed up the slit and I added a dab of RTV for to help seal the slit for good measure

Everything has been trouble-free since I did this in February. Running both the factory halogen and the Xenon for high beams (as is done from the factory) is an amazing experience! You will love the output!

PS- if you do not use the factory halogen high beam, you will have a canbus error. The system wants to see a certain resistance indicating that the bulb is functioning properly. If you only use that high beam connection only to switch the solenoid on your new projectors, there won’t be enough load and it will shut off power to that circuit. Essentially, make sure you do split the high beam circuit twice

once for the signal to run the solenoids on your new projectors
once to make the stock halogen high beams functional

HardmanGT

You do NOT need the canbus units if you go with my advice above

Order55

Thanks for your detailed reply and I'm grateful for your installation advice, I was thinking along similar lines with the hole saw/additional hole + grommet on the bottom side.

I went ahead and fired everything up ahead of your response and it seem to fire up with no issue or codes. My only concern after reading your comment is if it is fully functioning...... when the lights are turned on I hear the shutter, but I'm not sure if anything else is happening when I turn on the high beams. Is there any audible action on the projector when the high beams are triggered? That shutter is supposed to open up and get brighter right?

I'm gonna go out here again in a little bit when it gets a little darker to play around a bit and get a better look. My girlfriend was behind the wheel switching light settings around on the first test. Just want to make sure everything is proper before I begin mounting the hardware to the housing.

Order55

So after testing it seems the high beam is always on regardless of if I trigger the halogen high beams or not. This is where I am lost on the wiring.

HardmanGT

Which high beam are you referring to as always being on?

If you are speaking about the halogen, that’s a problem.
If you mean the new xenon, no issue. The bulb never changes intensity. The only thing that happens is that the solenoid moves the shutter out of the way to give the full beam pattern.

Order55

Yeah, I've got a wiring issue I am unsure of somewhere then. When powering my headlights on, the shutter will automatically open/drop down (full beam pattern). It seems to always be the full beam pattern regardless of what light settings I am on. When I power the lights off, the shutter will close back to normal. I haven't been able to turn the lights on while maintaining a closed shutter. (low beam pattern)

Any suggestions? Came into this battle with less knowledge than I probably should have and didn't expect too many issues based on my research lol. I don't know enough about factory wiring to focus in on the problem area.



Internal shot MOLEX connector

HardmanGT

there shouldn't be any modification or utilization of the MOLEX in the primary headlight circuitry. Simply plug in the module wiring into the H7 socket for power.

For high beam activation, either tap into the factory (secondary bulb towards the center of the car) halogen high beam or use splitters to split that circuit.

Order55

I'm right there with you on how easy this should be and after a couple days pulling my hair out, I labeled all the connections and documented everything for them to review the process and it turns out I have the wrong splitter connections (although I initially purchased what they suggested)

The correct splitter is on the way now. The factory high beam is an H7 Bulb with a 9006 connection. So instead of H7 > 9006/9006F they suggested, my splitter needs to be 9005M > 9005F/9006F to connect back to the factory wiring.

HardmanGT

I tapped into the halogen high beam as pictured. The harness was wrong from TRS and I was impatient.