Lawrence Chiu

Title: 2006 E350 sedan (w211) unable to achieve 4-wheel alignment. NTB says this is per design due to the sport suspension. Comments?

Hi everyone, I went to NTB to get a 4-wheel alignment, and the best they can do still show some 'red' values. They said this can't get any better because of the design of the suspension. Is that true?

RED: Left Front Camber -1.8 deg
RED: Right Front Camber -1.8 deg
RED: Left Rear Camber -1.7 deg
RED: Right Rear Camber -2.0 deg

I was just wondering if this is true for everyone or is it just my car?

F1Fan

Clean looking car!

It is true for W211 and other Mercedes that use similar control arm style. Alignment can't get back to normal specification because the suspension is worn out. You can go with those bolts and they may work. I ended up replacing the control arm as the bushing was worn out. I didn't want to go with camber bolts on a worn out control arm. What about putting those bolts on a new control arm? Well I had that ready to go, but after putting new control arms on with the bolts in the normal position, the alignment came back to within range. So there was no need to use the offset position for the bolts.

There are several control arms in the front suspension of W211. The one I am referring to is commonly called a lower torque arm, or lower thrust arm, or just lower control arm. The other control arm is sometimes called the lower spring arm, as the strut/spring/air spring connects to that arm. If you look at the photo you posted with the front suspension and green text with title, "Front CAMBER/CASTER", the lower thrust arm is the silver arm that is at a 45 degree angle to the right. The large rubber bushing at the top is a very common wear item.

bbirdwell

Per F1Fan above, the suspension has multiple wear points. You can replace the bushings up front but the aluminum arm has a pressed in ball joint that cannot be replaced; you can replace the bushing but if the ball joint is bad you'll have to replace the entire thrust arm. So, if the bushing is worn, I'd recommend replacing the entire arm.

The rear is a multi-link suspension that would require the replacement of multiple parts; I would estimate about a day's work. DIY, only the cost of your time; at shop rates, a bit expensive. Alternatively, for the rear only, you can install eccentric bushings in the hub on each side, then dial in the camber to the recommended value. Look for an "SPC Rear Camber Kit" for about $125 plus labor. FWIW, the kit will *not* fit the AMG model W211, only the non-AMGs. AMG uses 14mm bolts while the non-AMGs use 12mm bolts.

The eccentric bolts are installed into the upper part of the rear hub where the camber arm attaches. There are videos from SPC out there on the installation.

Lawrence Chiu

K-Mac makes an adjustment kit but it's expensive, almost $900 for front and rear bushings.

I think I am going to live with the negative camber.

Lawrence Chiu

The cost of the K-Mac kit: $860 for front and rear bushings is equal to another set of four tires (lasting 50k miles) hence it makes sense to live with the negative camber.

bbirdwell

Concur. If you change your mind I recommend the SPC eccentric bolts. No affiliation with them nor have I used them but I would be willing to do so.

cetialpha5

Yeah, anytime you can't get it aligned, it's worn suspension parts. Better to just replace the worn parts, those bolts are a band aid, and an expensive one at that.

How's your balance shaft anyway?

F1Fan

That right there is the achille's heel of the M272 engine.