2009 E350 Base with 120K miles and 722.906 transmission - a couple of days ago I received a white Warning Message of ESP Inoperative along with a CEL at start. Also, the gear position display (R / D / etc) was not present in the MFD, but I could move the gear selector lever and those adjacent red lights illuminated. The car would indeed not go into gear so I shut the car down, pulled the key, waited a couple of minutes since this had occurred right after a hard rain and was maybe an electrical issue due to water intrusion somewhere, then restarted the car and the ESP warning was gone but the CEL remained. I have an Autel OBD II reader and a P2004 code was the only one present (I know this is a fairly common issue within the intake manifold and can be a DIY repair). I cleared the code and then drove the car with no issues.

On the next drive, those same warnings (ESP + CEL) returned DURING the drive and the car experienced what I presumed to be violent downshifts as I braked to a stop at a red light, then same when I pulled into a parking lot to get off the road. The gear position display was again gone and I could not get it back into gear after shut down. After 3-4 shut down and start up attempts and after examining the under hood fuse block and the battery well in the trunk for obvious water issues, the car started normally and I returned home (gingerly) and read codes.

1. I had 0521 (intake manifold tumble flap stuck in Actuated position {P2004)) - CEL light explained
2. 1405 (no CAN message received from TCM)
3. 1860 (left rear wheel RPM signal transmitted by the traction system via the CAN bus is implausible)
4. 1861 (same for right rear wheel)
5. C426 (Start enable 'Drive Authorization System (Diagnostic Tool/FBS) has not been issued
6. 2805 (The signals from the range selector sensor are implausible compared with those from the electronic shift lever module)

I described the issue to my normal indy mechanic and he said it could be part of the anti-theft system which only a dealer can repair or that it could be a bad shift lever. There wasn't any water in the passenger footwell that I found and I replaced the forward cowl around the windshield wipers about 5 months ago since it had deteriorated. I have also replaced the driver's side trunk drain channel since the 2 rubberized plastic rivets had deteriorated and allowed water to leak onto my amp which I had to replace. The passenger's side channel appears in good shape. I'm leaning towards an electrical issue and not a mechanical transmission issue, but I'll take any ideas/advice/solutions the community may have.

 

Further info...the car will not go into gear at all using normal Auto nor Manual modes from both the gear shift lever and shift paddles. The gear position display is again absent in the MFD. I put the car on jack stands and examined the shift linkage to be sure it was connected just in front of the cats and indeed it is so that possible simple solution is out. Other than towing the car to repair, is there a way to get it moving so I can drive it (in manual mode to control my shifts) to my indy repair shop?

 

More further info...Dealer sent me this info "FOUND FAULT CODES FOR NO CAN CMOMMINCATION WITH TRANSMISSION. CHECKED TRANSMISSION CONNECTOR AND FOUND OIL IN CONNECTOR FROM BAD SEAL OF VALVE BODY AT CONNECTOR. CHECKED VOLTAGE AND CAN HIGH AND LOW VOLTAGE AT TRANSMISSION CONNECTOR, FOUND OK. DETERMINED VALVE BODY DEFECTIVE

FOUND FAULT CODES FOR NO CAN CMOMMINCATION WITH TRANSMISSION. CHECKED TRANSMISSION CONNECTOR AND FOUND OIL IN CONNECTOR FROM BAD SEAL OF VALVE BODY AT CONNECTOR. CHECKED VOLTAGE AND CAN HIGH AND LOW VOLTAGE AT TRANSMISSION CONNECTOR, FOUND OK. DETERMINED VALVE BODY DEFECTIVE(VEHICLE WILL NOT GO INTO GEAR)

From what I've read on the forums and elsewhere, is it possible that it is only the connector plate that is bad versus the entire valve body? I've asked them to tell me if I have a VGS 1, 2, or 3 system but don't yet know the answer. I think I understand that if VGS 1 then the entire valve body and conductor plate need to be replaced for certain faults, but if VGS 2 or later then the conductor plate can be the only item that needs replacing. They did not send me the codes they pulled, but I am waiting for more details from them.