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Hello, so I bought S211 2007 with Airmatic problem. Rear left side of the car was quite low to the ground we checked the bags and they were good no leaks around rear strut, valve block. When you start the car Pump works only for 10 seconds (does not lift car at all while pumping) And after around 10 seconds I get malfunction on my instrument cluster and Pump stops working, Diagnostic said there is a leak in the pressure lines if you delete the malfunction rear left side raises halfway and then stops raising. Raise/ sport buttons doesnt work even lights are working. After deleting the malfunction and driving for an hour car is finally at the normal height. But it still drops sometimes over night or sometimes it takes even 2-3 days. I have changed the valve block (I took used one to test it) Car raised well, all the buttons worked well but i had malfunction, that valve is bad. So I decided that valve block is bad so I bought a new valve block and when I changed it rear left side dropped again. Pump works for 10 seconds and then I get the malfunction again. Can new valve block be deffective? And why does the pump work only for 10 seconds when you start the car? Could that mean that the pump is weak?
Stop throwing parts and money at your car. Use advanced search in the upper right as you are not the first person to have issues with the Airmatic suspension system. Many, many posts on how to troubleshoot the Airmatic SAS (Semi-Active Suspension). Just from your description you have a leak in the system. Air springs have valves to keep air in them; if they deflate, you have a leak from the bladder or a bad valve which, in turn, means you need a new air spring. Find the tech data (multiple posts out there), study, learn, diagnose, and repair.
But why pump runs only for 10 seconds and then stops shouldn't it Raise the car even if there is a leak? I have read a lot of forums but couldn't find any information about pump working like that. And while it's working (for those 10seconds) it wont raise car at all.
Safety feature. Might be bad compressor or another issue. Put it on STAR and you can test the compressor, air reservoir, and air springs individually. Pressure, height, durations, etc. 20 minutes of testing versus hours/days searching and replacing.
Safety feature. Might be bad compressor or another issue. Put it on STAR and you can test the compressor, air reservoir, and air springs individually. Pressure, height, durations, etc. 20 minutes of testing versus hours/days searching and replacing.
I have dissasembled the pump I have noticed that the piston and cylinder are worn out. Could it be the reason that it doesnt build any pressure and shuts down and shows malfunctiont that there is a leak? If that so why when you delete the malfunction it starts lifting the car. I'm so lost. We had STAR diagnostics on it builds up only to 7 bar and it should build up to 14-15 I think. We also checked level sensors. It also says that there is pressure line leak. But still even if there is a leak it should still raise the car and when it lowers raise it again, please correct me if I'm mistaken. I think there are 2 different problems. First there is a leak somewhere in the system and second Is something that makes Pump shut down.
I have disassembled the pump I have noticed that the piston and cylinder are worn out. We had STAR diagnostics on it builds up only to 7 bar and it should build up to 14-15 I think.
Indeed may be two problems. First check or replace compressor relay, check filter & harness. Still fails, check actual lines to rear left inclusive of rear axle distributor. Unsuccessful, rebuild/replace compressor.
Indeed may be two problems. First check or replace compressor relay, check filter & harness. Still fails, check actual lines to rear left inclusive of rear axle distributor. Unsuccessful, rebuild/replace compressor.
Thanks for the info but if relay was bad wouldn't pump work non stop? Or I wouldnt start at all?
How about this open line @ valve, open @ strut, seal @ strut or valve and use compressor capable of producing 10-16 BAR / PSI conversion. Remember there is a rear axle distributor.
How about this open line @ valve, open @ strut, seal @ strut or valve and use compressor capable of producing 10-16 BAR / PSI conversion. Remember there is a rear axle distributor.
I have checked the rear axle distributor also I have changed the compressor since the old one was rusty on the inside some springs were broken and Cylinder with the piston were worn out. Now the new one works only for 10 seconds again and shuts down after and car wont raise a little bit... I dont know what to do anymore
It feels like it doesn't want to let the air inside the system. Any ideas what could cause that? Also I am suspicious about how hoses are connected to valve block. They are not marked by colors. And from other pictures it looks like they are connected wrong. Keep in mind that I have bought a car with this problem.
Pump is sucking air and then air starts coming out of the filter, So it builds up pressure and lets it out through pressure relief valve, so that would mean that Valve block does not open the air pump valve? After Pump stops working diagnostic says that there is a leak in the pressure lines. But there is no leak in pressure lines, becouse air doesn't even get to the pressure lines.
Pump is sucking air and then air starts coming out of the filter, So it builds up pressure and lets it out through pressure relief valve, so that would mean that Valve block does not open the air pump valve? After Pump stops working diagnostic says that there is a leak in the pressure lines. But there is no leak in pressure lines, becouse air doesn't even get to the pressure lines.
Check every line and fitting with soapy spray. That LR spring, in spite of a negative soap test, may still have a leak through the bellows you can't see as some springs have a shroud. Check the compressor and spring for mfg. ID. If they are Arnott the components have a lifetime warranty.
Check every line and fitting with soapy spray. That LR spring, in spite of a negative soap test, may still have a leak through the bellows you can't see as some springs have a shroud. Check the compressor and spring for mfg. ID. If they are Arnott the components have a lifetime warranty.
No point doing Soapy water spray becouse there is almost no air in the system. Pump doesnt lift the car. And springs were tested and are all ok. I also need to know why pump doesn't want to pump air into the system. Becouse if there was a leak it should still raise the car.
Hello again, does anyone know if I can check if rear airbag or valve is bad? Becouse I have looked for leaks everywhere else checked everything besides airbags. I went to the dealers to check the airbags probably they missed something so I want to check them myself. The problem is that air bags are empty they have no pressure in them. How do I check rear airbag valve? And can they be replaced seperately?
I'm unsure i left the car at dealers. They said it was good. I believe they checked the Airbag itself but I think that The valve might be bad becouse I checked everything else and couldnt find any leaks. My car won't raise and wont pressurize the airbag becouse it says there is a leak and compressor stops working.
If you’re asking if internal valves(s) can be replaced separately, no. Only way to definitively check is to remove/disassemble air spring as shown in this link (212 different part but same method): https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...k-testing.html it may be time for you to make a decision to replace compressor & both rear air springs barring rear air line leak. Your call.
Last edited by konigstiger; Oct 14, 2021 at 01:34 PM.
Hello, so I bought S211 2007 with Airmatic problem. Rear left side of the car was quite low to the ground we checked the bags and they were good no leaks around rear strut, valve block. When you start the car Pump works only for 10 seconds (does not lift car at all while pumping) And after around 10 seconds I get malfunction on my instrument cluster and Pump stops working, Diagnostic said there is a leak in the pressure lines if you delete the malfunction rear left side raises halfway and then stops raising. Raise/ sport buttons doesnt work even lights are working. After deleting the malfunction and driving for an hour car is finally at the normal height. But it still drops sometimes over night or sometimes it takes even 2-3 days. I have changed the valve block (I took used one to test it) Car raised well, all the buttons worked well but i had malfunction, that valve is bad. So I decided that valve block is bad so I bought a new valve block and when I changed it rear left side dropped again. Pump works for 10 seconds and then I get the malfunction again. Can new valve block be deffective? And why does the pump work only for 10 seconds when you start the car? Could that mean that the pump is weak?
Are you sure you have airmatic or SLS? They are completely different systems. Does your wagon have the ride height adjustment buttons in the shifter console?
If you’re asking if internal valves(s) can be replaced separately, no. Only way to definitively check is to remove/disassemble air spring as shown in this link (212 different part but same method): https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...k-testing.html it may be time for you to make a decision to replace compressor & both rear air springs barring rear air line leak. Your call.
thanks for the info, I have already changed the compressor, I guess I'll have to change both springs aswell, but It's still weird that pump stops working becouse of such small leak, becouse rear left side drops completely after 2-3 days
Barring an actual air line leak other than at connecting points and given compressor & valve replacement and no known leaks the only scenario left is air spring(s).
I have tried to raise car with diagnostic the front raised without any problems, but the rear is still sitting down on the ground pressure in the system is 11bars front both struts are fully inflated. Rear is down on the ground and does not want to raise. Pressure remained the same after some time and didnt drop a little.
I have tried to raise car with diagnostic the front raised without any problems, but the rear is still sitting down on the ground pressure in the system is 11bars front both struts are fully inflated. Rear is down on the ground and does not want to raise. Pressure remained the same after some time and didnt drop a little.
Odd the dealer didn't find anything. They're usually good at just replacing parts if they see something has gone sideways. Did you check the air reserior in the trunk?
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