E-Class (W211) 2003-2009

Power locks

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Old Jul 14, 2022 | 07:39 PM
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2003 CLK500, 2008 e350
Power locks

Just started having problems with the power locks on my 2008 E350. Any time I try to lock the doors, the locks on all four door chatter lock/unlock 3-4 times. This happens even when using the locking button on the drivers door.

Any responses will be appreciated.
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Old Jul 14, 2022 | 09:04 PM
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This thread may address that problem. However, it’s unusual for all locks to develop the problem at the same time.
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...2006-e350.html
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Old Jul 16, 2022 | 07:16 AM
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2003 CLK500, 2008 e350
Just ran a diagnostic and came back with “voltage too low” on all 4 door control modules. Could that be the problem? Would you, or anyone, know what controls that voltage? Is it an auxiliary battery?
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Old Jul 16, 2022 | 11:14 AM
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2008, no auxiliary battery check battery. If fine, odd that all 4 locks are simultaneously bouncing but here are additional cost effective repairs: https://www.mercedesmedic.com/quick-...ing-door-lock/ unsuccessful, search “w211 bouncing door lock spring replacement”
Amazon Amazon
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Old Jul 17, 2022 | 06:49 AM
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2003 CLK500, 2008 e350
Originally Posted by konigstiger
2008, no auxiliary battery check battery. If fine, odd that all 4 locks are simultaneously bouncing but here are additional cost effective repairs: https://www.mercedesmedic.com/quick-...ing-door-lock/ unsuccessful, search “w211 bouncing door lock spring replacement” https://www.amazon.com/Actuator-Repa.../dp/B07WTDK1YR
I thought about the battery. It's now 6 years old. that's my next check. Thanx
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Old Jul 22, 2022 | 10:26 AM
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2003 CLK500, 2008 e350
Originally Posted by rwolak
I thought about the battery. It's now 6 years old. that's my next check. Thanx
Cold state voltage is 12.1v. Charging at 14.2v. is 12.1v too low to effectively operate the locking system?
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Old Jul 22, 2022 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by rwolak
Cold state voltage is 12.1v. Charging at 14.2v. is 12.1v too low to effectively operate the locking system?
If the engine is ON, and you see 14.2V in the cluster, that is plenty of voltage for the locks to pop out of the door.

What will be the behavior of the locking system with poor/loose grounding?
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Old Jul 22, 2022 | 02:16 PM
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bouncing locks

try not to lump problems together: locks + battery.

It may be you have TWO problems but the "bouncing door locks" is usually not voltage related.

Of course marginal voltage can upset many things so rule that out with a good battery charger. Work the locks and watch the result...


Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jul 22, 2022 at 03:10 PM.
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Old Jul 22, 2022 | 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by rwolak
  1. Cold state voltage is 12.1v.
  2. Charging at 14.2v.
  3. Is 12.1v too low to effectively operate the locking system?
  1. that is normally fine with Ign On.
  2. that is very nice
  3. that's plenty good enough

Now back to door locks!

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Old Jul 22, 2022 | 02:48 PM
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Again, odd that all four actuators would fail in this manner simultaneously. Consider checking associated fuses @ interior fuse panel: f21 right rear door control unit, f22 right front; f32 left rear, f33 left front. Pull each for a minute or two and reinsert. Unsuccessful, remove fuse panel inspect connections. Fine, move on to CAN connectors.











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Old Jul 22, 2022 | 04:42 PM
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2003 CLK500, 2008 e350
Thanx for all of the responses. Looks like i still have some digging to do.
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Old Jul 25, 2022 | 06:09 PM
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Started pulling each of the door controller fuses and found that, although all 4 door locks “pulsated”, the bad actuator was the drivers door. To temporarily fix the problem, I wrapped the door button with one layer of electrical tape. This put enough friction on the button to allow the locks to function properly. I plan on buying a few actuator springs to fix the problem permanently.

thanx for all the suggestions. They were greatly appreciated.
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Old Jul 25, 2022 | 06:30 PM
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1 of 4 locks...

Originally Posted by rwolak
Started pulling each of the door controller fuses and found that, although all 4 door locks “pulsated”, the bad actuator was the drivers door. To temporarily fix the problem, I wrapped the door button with one layer of electrical tape. This put enough friction on the button to allow the locks to function properly. I plan on buying a few actuator springs to fix the problem permanently.

thanx for all the suggestions. They were greatly appreciated.
How did you manage to single out which of the lock was making all of them bounce together ??
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