Best Code reader/ Diagnostic Tool/to reset
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2003, E320
Best Code reader/ Diagnostic Tool/to reset
Hi dudes: Just recently E320 came with stupid P0715 code and stuck in gear 3. Took it to my transmission guy and he hooked up his Snap-On code reader & scanner and in a heartbeat took the car out of limp mode ( I call it stupid limbo mode !!!). However a week after back to square one and car stuck in limbo...Anywho, I am not gonna repair the car this year as its going soon for fall/winter storage. Other than Snap-On does anybody here can recommend me a good Code reader/ Diagnostic Tool with capability to reset the codes ( I mean not just get rid of the ENG Check Light ...)?
Thanks a lot.
Thanks a lot.
Last edited by Handyman101; Sep 25, 2022 at 04:42 AM.
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From: MA
2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
There are many scanners that can read MB specific codes, and they should be able to clear various codes like transmission error codes. Haven't used any specifically for that so can't really recommend one that will positively do the job. A few that come to mind are the Autel AP200, iCarsoft and the Launch Thinkcar Pro. Those are all in the sub $100 to $200 range. For a real system, you'd have to step up to a Mercedes knock off system which is going to be in the $600-$1000 range and you don't want to spend that. Is it the 5 speed or the 7 speed? The 4matic was 5 speed, rwd was 7 speed. The 4matic has a transmission connector that typically wicks up fluid so you could try changing that on the 4matic, it's a cheap $14 part.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...tor-2035400053
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...tor-2035400053
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2021 GLB250 FWD, 2023 GLA250 FWD, 2013 C250, 2015 GLK350, 2005 ML350SE, 2003 E320
I think the Autel MD806 would do what’s needed. Check the specs. It’s around $200.
FYI — all 2003 (also 2004 & 2005, I believe) W211 cars, 4matic and RWD, had 722.6xx 5Gtronic 5 speed transmissions. Every 722.6 transmission I’ve had regardless of subtype also had the leaky connector. If you do any service on the transmission, replace the connector.
FYI — all 2003 (also 2004 & 2005, I believe) W211 cars, 4matic and RWD, had 722.6xx 5Gtronic 5 speed transmissions. Every 722.6 transmission I’ve had regardless of subtype also had the leaky connector. If you do any service on the transmission, replace the connector.
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2003, E320
Thanks to both Cetialpha5 and Odd piggy, unfortunately where I live there are not many car parts stores plus they do not have refund policy ( for electronics products) so I can not do the trial. Only one store has refund policy and they only carry Millennium brand which I bought the 70 series ( less than $200 ) , later on I found out there is a 90pro series ( roughly $ 400 ) which has some extra features such as the "reset" feature eg. "Battery Change" ( As I explained in my previous thread, I replaced my main battery but still get the random red battery warning screen on the instrument cluster ....Seems when you change the battery, you have to reset it.?!.).
Anyways, either 70 or 90 pro, I am gonna try to see if I can get rid of limp mode (as my priority issue) and leave the result here and if no luck then I buy some of the brands you guys recommended from amazon and hopefully they have refund policy?!
Finally regarding fixing it, I did a whole week online research in the past and it seems the most cause of the limp mode is the conductor plate?!
Which I am gonna take care of that in the new year and I will take the car to Mercedes for diagnose as average Joe mechanics have no clues...I have watched lots of youtube clips people have been changing the conductor plates and the connector and still have the same limp issues , so I am not gonna waste my money and time for troubleshooting and changing parts...
cheers.
Anyways, either 70 or 90 pro, I am gonna try to see if I can get rid of limp mode (as my priority issue) and leave the result here and if no luck then I buy some of the brands you guys recommended from amazon and hopefully they have refund policy?!
Finally regarding fixing it, I did a whole week online research in the past and it seems the most cause of the limp mode is the conductor plate?!
Which I am gonna take care of that in the new year and I will take the car to Mercedes for diagnose as average Joe mechanics have no clues...I have watched lots of youtube clips people have been changing the conductor plates and the connector and still have the same limp issues , so I am not gonna waste my money and time for troubleshooting and changing parts...
cheers.
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Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 6,189
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From: MA
2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
The AP200 is pretty cheap on Amazon, it's basically the 806 I believe but it's limited to one car brand which is fine if you're not a repair shop that needs to diagnose multiple car brands.
For battery problems, the usual list is the battery, alternator, aux battery or battery control module in the case of your 2003, they got rid of the battery control module in the face lifted models which was 2006/2007+. It's also picky about the alternators in the early years too, there may be several that fit so be sure to look up the right part number in EPC. I would guess aux battery first which is used for SBC brakes and then if that's not it, it's the battery control module. You can just have the aux battery load tested to see if it's good or bad. Most stores in the US will do that for free, no idea where you are or who would do that.
Not that up on my transmission error codes, says speed sensor or some electrical problem with the speed sensor. That's why I thought about the connector. That's the easy and cheap thing to try first, might be due for a transmission fluid change anyway. Anyway, yeah lots of times a conductor plate replacement will fix it too and you can send them out to be rebuilt which will save you the trouble of having to recode a new one. But first check the coolant/transmission fluid. The 2003 year models were known to have bad radiators and the transmission fluid and coolant mixed. I would think that if you're driving it now, the radiator got replaced by now or you were super lucky til now. Lots of old threads about checking the name on the radiator to see if it was replaced or not.
For battery problems, the usual list is the battery, alternator, aux battery or battery control module in the case of your 2003, they got rid of the battery control module in the face lifted models which was 2006/2007+. It's also picky about the alternators in the early years too, there may be several that fit so be sure to look up the right part number in EPC. I would guess aux battery first which is used for SBC brakes and then if that's not it, it's the battery control module. You can just have the aux battery load tested to see if it's good or bad. Most stores in the US will do that for free, no idea where you are or who would do that.
Not that up on my transmission error codes, says speed sensor or some electrical problem with the speed sensor. That's why I thought about the connector. That's the easy and cheap thing to try first, might be due for a transmission fluid change anyway. Anyway, yeah lots of times a conductor plate replacement will fix it too and you can send them out to be rebuilt which will save you the trouble of having to recode a new one. But first check the coolant/transmission fluid. The 2003 year models were known to have bad radiators and the transmission fluid and coolant mixed. I would think that if you're driving it now, the radiator got replaced by now or you were super lucky til now. Lots of old threads about checking the name on the radiator to see if it was replaced or not.
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2007 E320 BlueTec Diesel
Be aware, MB has a monopoly on this repair if the valve body needs to be programmed specifically by a MB service dealer computer. It can be an expensive repair. FYI.
Last edited by bsmchugh; Sep 26, 2022 at 02:30 PM.
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Thread Starter
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2003, E320
Thanks for the info, That's why I would like to take the car to MB dealer for diagnose ONLY and I will decide from there ....
Anyways, back to battery:
1) Main battery replaced a week ago. ( It was below 12 volts)
2) Alternator is good because it does its job and I get 13.71 volts. I do not get "ALTERNATOR VISIT WORKSHOP" message on the cluster.
It is just after car sitting over night, I get RED battery icon on the cluster !
3) Aux battery needs to be replaced ( below 12 volts)
However, I am gonna ask MB dealer if I need to rest the computer for battery change after changing both batteries?!
Anyways, back to battery:
1) Main battery replaced a week ago. ( It was below 12 volts)
2) Alternator is good because it does its job and I get 13.71 volts. I do not get "ALTERNATOR VISIT WORKSHOP" message on the cluster.
It is just after car sitting over night, I get RED battery icon on the cluster !
3) Aux battery needs to be replaced ( below 12 volts)
However, I am gonna ask MB dealer if I need to rest the computer for battery change after changing both batteries?!
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Thread Starter
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2003, E320
Att: bsmchugh, Thanks for the heads up !
I am aware how much dealers charge people....If that gonna cost me arm and leg, I will sell the car as is...life too short to suffer and waste money on a "car".
Seems still Cavalier is the best choice out there....lol
I am aware how much dealers charge people....If that gonna cost me arm and leg, I will sell the car as is...life too short to suffer and waste money on a "car".
Seems still Cavalier is the best choice out there....lol
Last edited by Handyman101; Sep 26, 2022 at 04:15 PM.
Thread Starter
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2003, E320
So back to Scanner/code reader, I tried Millennium, 70 and detected the general code P0715. I used the clear option and as I expected it only got rid of the ENG light and pended the code. Car was still in limp.
Took the car to my Transmission guy, he hooked up his $ 5000 SnapOn scanner and reset the computer ...test drove the car, it was nice and smooth but on further stop and drive car gave me couple of kicks and ENG light appeared and back to limp mode. My transmission guy told me your conductor plate is shut ! Resetting won't help any more even as a temporarily fix...
The plan is:
Take the car to MB dealer for diagnose and confirmation ONLY and decide from there...
PS. I will return the $ 200 scanner as with its fancy bigger size LCD screen, etc etc it did the same job as my $30 code reader and nothing more....btw I am wondering if icarsoft MBII V2.0 for Mercedes which I hear a lot, won't be able to reset codes so why bother to spend
$ +/_ 300 for a code reader ?!)
Took the car to my Transmission guy, he hooked up his $ 5000 SnapOn scanner and reset the computer ...test drove the car, it was nice and smooth but on further stop and drive car gave me couple of kicks and ENG light appeared and back to limp mode. My transmission guy told me your conductor plate is shut ! Resetting won't help any more even as a temporarily fix...
The plan is:
Take the car to MB dealer for diagnose and confirmation ONLY and decide from there...
PS. I will return the $ 200 scanner as with its fancy bigger size LCD screen, etc etc it did the same job as my $30 code reader and nothing more....btw I am wondering if icarsoft MBII V2.0 for Mercedes which I hear a lot, won't be able to reset codes so why bother to spend
$ +/_ 300 for a code reader ?!)
Last edited by Handyman101; Sep 26, 2022 at 03:29 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 6,189
Likes: 1,548
From: MA
2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
Thanks for the info, That's why I would like to take the car to MB dealer for diagnose ONLY and I will decide from there ....
Anyways, back to battery:
1) Main battery replaced a week ago. ( It was below 12 volts)
2) Alternator is good because it does its job and I get 13.71 volts. I do not get "ALTERNATOR VISIT WORKSHOP" message on the cluster.
It is just after car sitting over night, I get RED battery icon on the cluster !
3) Aux battery needs to be replaced ( below 12 volts)
However, I am gonna ask MB dealer if I need to rest the computer for battery change after changing both batteries?!
Anyways, back to battery:
1) Main battery replaced a week ago. ( It was below 12 volts)
2) Alternator is good because it does its job and I get 13.71 volts. I do not get "ALTERNATOR VISIT WORKSHOP" message on the cluster.
It is just after car sitting over night, I get RED battery icon on the cluster !
3) Aux battery needs to be replaced ( below 12 volts)
However, I am gonna ask MB dealer if I need to rest the computer for battery change after changing both batteries?!
Your red battery icon is from your aux battery then.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 6,189
Likes: 1,548
From: MA
2008 E350 4Matic, 2011 E350 4matic
So back to Scanner/code reader, I tried Millennium, 70 and detected the general code P0715. I used the clear option and as I expected it only got rid of the ENG light and pended the code. Car was still in limp. ( I will return the $ 200 scanner as with its fancy bigger size LCD screen, etc etc it did the same job as my $30 code reader and nothing more....)
Took the car to my Transmission guy, he hooked up his $ 5000 SnapOn scanner and reset the computer ...test drove the car, it was nice and smooth but on further stop and drive car gave me couple of kicks and ENG light appeared and back to limp mode. My transmission guy told me your conductor plate is shut ! Resetting won't help any more even as a temporarily fix...
The plan is:
Take the car to MB dealer for diagnose and confirmation ONLY and decide from there...
Took the car to my Transmission guy, he hooked up his $ 5000 SnapOn scanner and reset the computer ...test drove the car, it was nice and smooth but on further stop and drive car gave me couple of kicks and ENG light appeared and back to limp mode. My transmission guy told me your conductor plate is shut ! Resetting won't help any more even as a temporarily fix...
The plan is:
Take the car to MB dealer for diagnose and confirmation ONLY and decide from there...
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 17
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2003, E320
Att: cetialpha5. Thanks bro, you are amazing,...members like you are assets for this community.
I will follow your instruction.
I will follow your instruction.
