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Hey guys, I endoscoped my 2009 S211 E350 today with 156,000 kms/96,000 miles on it.
There doesn't appear to be any wear on the walls.
Car runs fine and doesn't burn oil.
Thanks.
Last edited by Tom pepicelli; 02-14-2024 at 03:18 AM.
The visual aspect of the cylinder walls is irrelevant unless it is a groove that will obviously indicate the engine will catastrophically fail soon ($$$$). What matters is:
1 - Are the rings in good/dectne shape based on the mileage ? Rings cannot be seen unless dissembled , but measured indirectly via a compression test.
2 - Leak down test, i.e. is there any leakage through the head gaskets?
3 - Are valve in good/decent shape?
4 - Oil consumption per km/miles?
If the cylinder space is tight, and it can compress the air fuel-mixture to specifications, the ignition system is working correctly and reasonable oil consumption (ALL engine consume oil) the visual appearance is not important unless you have historical data of the same cylinder. Then, you can say if something is in progress.
The visual aspect of the cylinder walls is irrelevant unless it is a groove that will obviously indicate the engine will catastrophically fail soon ($$$$). What matters is:
1 - Are the rings in good/dectne shape based on the mileage ? Rings cannot be seen unless dissembled , but measured indirectly via a compression test.
2 - Leak down test, i.e. is there any leakage through the head gaskets?
3 - Are valve in good/decent shape?
4 - Oil consumption per km/miles?
If the cylinder space is tight, and it can compress the air fuel-mixture to specifications, the ignition system is working correctly and reasonable oil consumption (ALL engine consume oil) the visual appearance is not important unless you have historical data of the same cylinder. Then, you can say if something is in progress.
Thanks for the response,
Car has 96,000 miles on it, got it second hand about 10,000 miles ago. Service history is very good, done every 7000 miles. Engine sounds good, no odd noises. Spark plugs look good. Oil consumption between oil changes (4000 miles) is very low, don’t need to top up at all.
I haven’t done a compression or leak down test as of yet.
Since you are approaching the 100K mark, and willing to explore the engine, I would check the following:
1 - Scan the vehicle for any hidden/stored error codes. In particular, to find out if the intake manifold has any issues
2 - Oil in the hose from the PCV to the throttle body
3 - If you want to go deeper, service the PCV valve since it WILL start to fail (guaranteed not sure when but it WILL) before it damages your intake manifold (if not damaged already)
4 - Spark plugs. You already said they look good, I guess they were serviced recently.
5 - Remove the serpentine belt and check for noises/play of the different pulleys, and the state of the belt itself. Your call is based on state, service information and budget unlike (3)
Another good measure at 100k miles is to filter your old oil at the next change and look for metal particles. The oll filter will catch some, but the most accurate way is to run the drained oil through a coffee sytle filter (slow and tedious) and see whats in there.
The minor scuffing of the cylinder walls doesnt look like a huge unless your seeing metal in the oil. Oil changes have been frequent and thats a very good thing. 15k intervals are rubbish.
Since you are approaching the 100K mark, and willing to explore the engine, I would check the following:
1 - Scan the vehicle for any hidden/stored error codes. In particular, to find out if the intake manifold has any issues
2 - Oil in the hose from the PCV to the throttle body
3 - If you want to go deeper, service the PCV valve since it WILL start to fail (guaranteed not sure when but it WILL) before it damages your intake manifold (if not damaged already)
4 - Spark plugs. You already said they look good, I guess they were serviced recently.
5 - Remove the serpentine belt and check for noises/play of the different pulleys, and the state of the belt itself. Your call is based on state, service information and budget unlike (3)
I have already bought a Pierburg intake manifold as I am currently getting codes for it and car feels a little sluggish. I also got a PCV service kit for it as i'd imagine its on the original one.
Thanks again for the tips, appreciate it.
Will definitely do that next oil change.
Do you recommend an oil additive? I have never thought using them is a great idea, or if they even do anything.
Thanks.
The visual aspect of the cylinder walls is irrelevant unless it is a groove that will obviously indicate the engine will catastrophically fail soon ($$$$). What matters is:
1 - Are the rings in good/dectne shape based on the mileage ? Rings cannot be seen unless dissembled , but measured indirectly via a compression test.
2 - Leak down test, i.e. is there any leakage through the head gaskets?
3 - Are valve in good/decent shape?
4 - Oil consumption per km/miles?
If the cylinder space is tight, and it can compress the air fuel-mixture to specifications, the ignition system is working correctly and reasonable oil consumption (ALL engine consume oil) the visual appearance is not important unless you have historical data of the same cylinder. Then, you can say if something is in progress.
May I consult you please, I'm kind of stuck in the middle of combustion chambers cleaning (piston top and chamber top including the bottom of the valves are with thick layer of carbon).
I left the cleaning material inside for socking following the recommendation for 24 hours with hand cranking every 6to8 hours but a health condition prevented me from coming back and finish my work (suck out the dirty solution & starter crank the engine). It stayed there for few days causing the dirt to stick on cylinder walls and when I come back and wash the with keroses and sprayed the foam cleaner again and wash and suck out the solution those marks on the lower side taking a wave shape (V6 engine 60 degrees) seem to be permeant making me think they are scuffs caused by undesolved carbon between the piston and the wall!!
Keept cleaning and removing remains and they are a lot and hand cranking the are less now but still there.
I don't know if I ruined that engine block and I don't know what should I do next
Please ask any questions and let me know your view of that experience
Thank you
May I consult you please, I'm kind of stuck in the middle of combustion chambers cleaning (piston top and chamber top including the bottom of the valves are with thick layer of carbon).
I left the cleaning material inside for socking following the recommendation for 24 hours with hand cranking every 6to8 hours but a health condition prevented me from coming back and finish my work (suck out the dirty solution & starter crank the engine). It stayed there for few days causing the dirt to stick on cylinder walls and when I come back and wash the with keroses and sprayed the foam cleaner again and wash and suck out the solution those marks on the lower side taking a wave shape (V6 engine 60 degrees) seem to be permeant making me think they are scuffs caused by undesolved carbon between the piston and the wall!!
Keept cleaning and removing remains and they are a lot and hand cranking the are less now but still there.
I don't know if I ruined that engine block and I don't know what should I do next
Please ask any questions and let me know your view of that experience
Thank you
Depending upon the solution you used, you should contact the manufacturer and ask them their view of what happens if you leave it too long, or at least google it. The first thing I'd be doing though is to change your oil and filter if you haven't already. Maybe consider just flushing the engine with some clean and inexpensive oil and filter for 15 minutes or so - but only if your game enough to start it.
It's possible that if the solution you used has removed carbon off the cylinder head, and that it's dried on the walls and possibly between the rings. That might be an extreme scenario. However, that's always the risk in using solutions that dilute and a procedure that doesn't burn anything off.
It might be a case if doing it all again but staying within the time limits so nothing dries. Sorry that's not a definite answer. Borescope all the cylinders and see.
Stain on cylinder walls after cleaning and left over cleaning dirty liquid
Here are some Endoscope photos of the Stain on cylinder walls after cleaning and left over cleaning dirty liquid .
engine is M272 3.5 with aluminium silicon coated cylinder walls and the cleaning material contains ammonia.
Advice please
Originally Posted by BlackML550
Depending upon the solution you used, you should contact the manufacturer and ask them their view of what happens if you leave it too long, or at least google it. The first thing I'd be doing though is to change your oil and filter if you haven't already. Maybe consider just flushing the engine with some clean and inexpensive oil and filter for 15 minutes or so - but only if your game enough to start it.
It's possible that if the solution you used has removed carbon off the cylinder head, and that it's dried on the walls and possibly between the rings. That might be an extreme scenario. However, that's always the risk in using solutions that dilute and a procedure that doesn't burn anything off.
It might be a case if doing it all again but staying within the time limits so nothing dries. Sorry that's not a definite answer. Borescope all the cylinders and see.
Cylinder soak solution drain quickly on one cylinder
Originally Posted by BlackML550
Depending upon the solution you used, you should contact the manufacturer and ask them their view of what happens if you leave it too long, or at least google it. The first thing I'd be doing though is to change your oil and filter if you haven't already. Maybe consider just flushing the engine with some clean and inexpensive oil and filter for 15 minutes or so - but only if your game enough to start it.
It's possible that if the solution you used has removed carbon off the cylinder head, and that it's dried on the walls and possibly between the rings. That might be an extreme scenario. However, that's always the risk in using solutions that dilute and a procedure that doesn't burn anything off.
It might be a case if doing it all again but staying within the time limits so nothing dries. Sorry that's not a definite answer. Borescope all the cylinders and see.
After starting the engine (flush/change the oil &filter before and after) I repeatedl the piston soak (seafoam into the spark plugs holes) I noticed that one of the six cylinder drain the liquid quickly unlike the rest of the cylinders that hold the liquid for much longers time.
Is that an indicator of :
1. Stuck closed piston rings
2. Dirty/sticky piston rings
Note that this particular cylinder had the soaking solution dryed in it as it was my first one to clean .. I know that's wrong but it happened because I got 😷 high fever 🤒.
DId you measure compression in the cylinder which drained the liquid quickly?
No. I know I should. Just received the gauge and receiving the new spark plugs soon .. will measure the compression then.
By the way it drives great and zero miss fire at all... Just the previous wrist pin knocking at warm idle
04-02-2023, 01:13 AM
