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Hello! I have a 2008 e350 4matic with 70k miles, when I put the car into drive or reverse it starts vibrating,
things that’s it’s not:
1: engine or tranny mounts, both have been replaced
2: belts, replaced
3: drive line, all is perfect,
4 transmission oil, had it serviced
the mechanic I took it to has been working on mercedes for close to 40 years maybe more he said, but never once has he seen this issue on an m272 (m112) ever with 70k miles
it would be a shame to get rid of an e class with the very rare jade green here in the states because of this issue
1 - Is it engine visibly vibrating?
2 - Is it felt in the cabin, but engine seems to be OK?
3 - Any soft noise in neutral? like a humming sound?
3 - Any codes of any kind after scanning using XEntry/STAR?
my tranny mount was absolutely shredded and helped car not shake, but it still shakes all the time at stop signs a little bit over the last 6 years of ownership
1 - Is it engine visibly vibrating?
2 - Is it felt in the cabin, but engine seems to be OK?
3 - Any soft noise in neutral? like a humming sound?
3 - Any codes of any kind after scanning using XEntry/STAR?
1, very slightly
2, yes it’s definitely felt in the cabin
3, no noise
4, no codes were thrown
Do you have a scanner to monitor live data? It could be anything, but it could be a slight imbalance under load. Otherwise, it will be present in Neutral.
So, top level there are two components: engine and transmission that are coupled and can cause the issue either way under load.
1 - in the engine, I can only guess an imbalance in the combustion.
The mechanical actuator of the intake (at the front) is not broken, correct?
Intake internal issue? I think the ECU can only tell if the flaps were actuated (sensors on both sides will throw the codes), but not a clue if the flaps are in the correct position (broken/slipping).
Can you boroscope the intake by removing the throttle body?
2 - in the transmission, the torque converter can create a vibration if started to fail already (rare for this mileage), but.
Just ideas.. Let us see others pitch in more ideas.
did you check the engine mount bottom screws. they are easily accessible when you remove the main splash shield
so what I am saying is that each engine mount on the bottom is attached to frame. i had 1 broken and it just rusted through from rain. easy to check and easy to get eyes on. also from the top you can re tighten the engine mount bolts with some swivel heads and a breaker. just a few things that have helped me. it possible it was not done right if you did not replace them?
my last engine mounts were febi and have only lasted 5 years before the care is a bit shakey again
Did you change out the CV axles? The aftermarket ones can also cause a vibration. Also the front of the car seems a little low. I've already replaced my springs/struts but they had higher mileage but still they age even if you don't drive it. Those springs are also known to crack. And when did you do the motor mounts/transmission mount? I'm on my 3rd set, they really disintegrate when they go bad, pieces break off and bolts go missing.
Are you using a code scanner that looks for MB specific codes or just a regular scanner? Normally when the intake manifold goes, the engine also runs rough but you only get pending codes and no codes with a regular scanner, need an MB specific scanner to find the pending code.
Did you change out the CV axles? The aftermarket ones can also cause a vibration. Also the front of the car seems a little low. I've already replaced my springs/struts but they had higher mileage but still they age even if you don't drive it. Those springs are also known to crack. And when did you do the motor mounts/transmission mount? I'm on my 3rd set, they really disintegrate when they go bad, pieces break off and bolts go missing.
Are you using a code scanner that looks for MB specific codes or just a regular scanner? Normally when the intake manifold goes, the engine also runs rough but you only get pending codes and no codes with a regular scanner, need an MB specific scanner to find the pending code.
I don’t think it has anything to do with the cv axels, even though I just replaced them with after market ones like you said, it only vibrates from idle to about 1k rpm in reverse and drive only, the cv axles don’t move until you do no?
I don’t think it has anything to do with the cv axels, even though I just replaced them with after market ones like you said, it only vibrates from idle to about 1k rpm in reverse and drive only, the cv axles don’t move until you do no?
It's an MB thing. Once you put it into drive, the aftermarket ones will vibrate. Happened to me too. That's why you just reboot them or replace the joint. Something to do with MB ones being hollow and the aftermarkets are solid or something like that. They tend to transmit vibrations. That's why your mechanic never heard of it, most of the time you use MB parts but OEM is like 1k which is why aftermarket is popular. If you still have the original MB axle, you can get a boot kit or send it out to be rebuilt. Or pick one up from a junkyard. This issue is covered in many past old threads. For me, it was obvious, no vibration before the axle was replaced, vibration afterwards so I knew it was the aftermarket one. Should have bought a rebuilt aftermarket one instead of a new one but at the time I didn't know about the vibration issue. Afterwards I tried looking for rebuilt ones but not too many places had those in stock. I guess you know why now.
It's an MB thing. Once you put it into drive, the aftermarket ones will vibrate. Happened to me too. That's why you just reboot them or replace the joint. Something to do with MB ones being hollow and the aftermarkets are solid or something like that. They tend to transmit vibrations. That's why your mechanic never heard of it, most of the time you use MB parts but OEM is like 1k which is why aftermarket is popular. If you still have the original MB axle, you can get a boot kit or send it out to be rebuilt. Or pick one up from a junkyard. This issue is covered in many past old threads. For me, it was obvious, no vibration before the axle was replaced, vibration afterwards so I knew it was the aftermarket one. Should have bought a rebuilt aftermarket one instead of a new one but at the time I didn't know about the vibration issue. Afterwards I tried looking for rebuilt ones but not too many places had those in stock. I guess you know why now.
so after you got Mercedes cv instead of after market the vibrations went away?, because I noticed it idles at like 550 rpm warm at stand still shouldn’t it be at 600?
so after you got Mercedes cv instead of after market the vibrations went away?, because I noticed it idles at like 550 rpm warm at stand still shouldn’t it be at 600?
I kept the old CV axle and I just bought a Mercedes boot kit which came with the boot, grease, clamps and a new bolt, was about $40. My mechanic was able to swap the boot and we put the old one back in. Several years later, it's still fine.
There's actually a lot of threads that talk about the vibration from an aftermarket axle and how to replace the just the boot. If you don't have the original axle anymore, I'd just pick one up at a junkyard and make sure you inspect it to make sure the boots are intact.
05-16-2023, 02:42 AM
