Im getting a P0133 o2 sensor circuity slow to warmup code
i removed it easy enough to inspect and it had some rusty scale on it so i wire brushed it off and use air can to blow off dust but it came right back within 10 km
So i called Saskatoon mercedes and they quoted me $470 cdn and 513 for down/upstream sensors
my first search on amazon says this one is 29$ cdn and compatible
at those prices i can literally buy 22 cheap ones and keep replacing them monthly if need be unless someone knows a known good reliable sensibly priced model?

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...2)+sensor,5132

Denso, Bosch listed there.. Those should work.

 

They always charge a lot for labor and parts. I think that codes refers to one particular sensor and it sounds like it's just the upstream sensor so there's no reason to replace the downstream one unless that just makes them more money. Normally it's just the upstream one that does the most switching and goes bad when it gets slow/lazy. The downstream one doesn't really do anything aside from telling you that the cats are toast when the upstream and downstream have the same values. So you normally just replace the upstream ones in the 60-100k range. I wouldn't get cheap no name O2 sensors though, Bosch or Denso are known good brands. I'd be afraid the no name one would be bad after a few years and then you're paying twice for a O2 sensor when a brand name one should last as long as the original factory one.

 

OK thanks,
yeah i pulled out the upstream sensor and cheap amazon one doesnt even resemble correct connector so that wouldve been a waste of time and money

 

MAYBE i jumped the gun ordering a new O2 sensor just cuz of recuurring P0133 code ?! I happen to come across this video about mAF sensors on my engine
Mine SEEMS to IDLE alot smoother than this guys and vibrates more while driving
BUT anyways i tested my maf cuz it was easy to do and apparently it reads just like this guys bad one
Anyone with M271 MAF sensor experience confirm this is how to tell if i have a bad MAF?

I already pulled out the MAF and attempted cleaning with MAF cleaner and it made zero difference
BUT it does seem to be all visually intact

ALSO, it looks like the previous owner did some woork on this MAF too as it had a non factory screw clamp on the intake pipe AND a screw missing holding the maf into that pipe.
SO i dont know if he stuck a cheap chinese part like this and it failed
or he just decided to sell w/o replacing? how to tell?

 

If recall correctly, the MB computer has a default behavior if the MAF goes down. If you disconnect the MAF, and the engine runs as before, I guess the MAF is ornamental at that point, correct?

 

well i can disconnect it while idling and it makes zero difference.
Should i try a testdrive around the neighboorhood w/o it connectedd?

 

Not exactly your vehicle, but explain the fundamentals

 

IM CONFUSED
the first video i posted says mine is a dead MAF
then i used my OBD2 scanner to watch the MAF as shown in this video and it appears to track up and down with engine RPM, which seems to say its fine!

Finally got my 850CCA replacement battery and take out my smaller 760CCA truck batttery only to be greeted with a ESP defective; return to shop on first startup
[its like this car is cursed/possessed and wants to be lit on fire or sent to the crusher!]

 

This should go away when you turn your steering wheel from lock to lock couple of times, steering angle sensor needs to be reset.

 

yup, yu are right it went away after l;ock to lock turns
BUT what what kind of engineer makes a car like this!!!!!!!~!!!!!!!

ive owned several hondas that i put 200,000+ km on that never showed a single code ever, ran perfectly , and this german engineered POS has shat codes out its *** ever since i owned it , 2 lousy 1000 kms ago at only 55000km suposedly, unless ive been scammed and its really 255,000 kms?
how easy is that to do in korea?
how is any MB owner happy with this kind of ownership?
i really want to set this thing on fire and just be done with the money bleeding and not subject anyone else to it
ive spent 8000$ on it since ownsership may 23 2023 and its still a POS

 

The real problem is that you probably went to the dealer for repairs and that's the most expensive way to own a Mercedes. When they're new, they're under warrant or you can get an extended warranty so for 4-7 years, costs at the dealer are at a minimum due to having a warranty. Once it's out of warranty either DIY or take it to an independent garage, they can be 1/3 to a half cheaper than the dealer. And normally when you buy a car, the trick is to have it inspected and make sure it doesn't have any obvious problems. These days I bring a scanner to scan the car for any obvious problems before buying.

As for the steering angle sensor, yes, the preface lift cars had that requirement, but the post face lift cars got rid of it. The early 2003-2006 were not good years, 2008/2009 were better years. It's important to do research before buying a car. Even the post face lifted cars required opening/closing all the windows/sunroof to normalize the car after disconnecting the battery. You basically hold the open/close switches for an extra 5 seconds or so after they're open/closed.

And yeah, it's a Mercedes, it's not a Honda, it's not going to be as cheap or as easy to own.

 

U R only partly correct. I typically DO ALL my own work on every vehicle i own and typically save over half the cost of shops /dealers doing it.

The ONLY times i took it to a dealer or shop was day i took possesion and was 3000 km from home.
this was an overseas online purchase, in other words a gamble and I LOST BIG TIME.
it was advertised as no issues, runs and drives with only 55,000 km.
That was ALL lies.
its been nothing but ISSUES.
in the first 5 hrs i it broke down stranding me on highway onramp.
local non mercedes shop said needed a new battery, $375 and one sparkplug was corroded and soaked in water so he replaced all of them and said i was good to go. $700 total bill
BUT next morning my car wouldnt start with a new 850 CCa battery. So he replaced braking battery and shrugged his shoulders and said drive straight home dont turn car off even to refuel.

next morning wouldnt start again.
, boosted it and drove staight to mercedes, who charged me 450 to find nothing wrong.

i got it home , replaced the Main Battery AGAIN only now i disconnect it evey night until i can crash this thing for insurance or sell it cheap
i also found a p0133 code on my scanner that mercedes didnt find few days prior, so i replaced that. seems to have fixed that code on only a short testdrive,

BUT i also replaced the oil sensor which dash menu said was faulty but unless thewres a way to reset that, it was wrong, its still saying faulty sensor.
IS THERE A WAY TO RESET THIS FAULT?

I orderred a used mirror to replace the pass side mirror so it can pass provincial inspection but it stuck in customs for over a week now.

i give it 50/50 chance mirror STILL wont work and its the fancy electronic controller in the door and another $100 usd and 4 weeks later ebaying parts

i dont see how anyone can be proud to own such junk.
its just like a domestic dodge piece of crap, I wouldnt own one of those off warranty either!

 

You'll have to be a bit more specific on the oil sensor, it's not a common fault, however this forum is basically US models and we didn't get an E200 so not that familiar with the engine. I basically wouldn't have done the gamble you did. I bought a car out of state too, but at least I went to look at it before actually buying it and it ran/drove fine. As for resetting faults, yes, that's what a scanner is good for. They're cheap ones on Amazon like the Autel AP200, a basic tool of the trade. I was going to say $375 is high for a battery but Canadian prices are higher than US and typically the H8 battery is in the $200 range in the US so not too bad for a shop.

I wouldn't call it a piece of junk. You basically got scammed buying something used, like buying a pig in a poke. As the saying goes, buyer beware. Way too many gambles on your part and I'm not surprised you got burned. Sometimes there's no particular reason why someone is selling it, other times they're lying about it being fine. You basically have no recourse when you buy it blind and trust the guy with no recourse if he's lying. That's not really the car's fault, it's the buyer. And not doing research is probably the other problem. The 2005 wasn't that bad, not as bad as 2006 or 2003 but not great either still some lingering effects from the Chrysler merger. Some basic research would have told you the 2008/2009 models were better for the W211 but that's not saying that much, the W212 are even better than the W211 and I have both. I still like the W211 styling and steering wheel and it's more fun to drive as it's more loaded than my W212. But my W212 just soldiers on without too many issues.

As for being stranded, you weren't really that specific of what happened, but it's pretty common for the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft sensors to go bad. That's typically on the V6 though, no idea about your particular model. You can't use a cheap OBD2 sensor on these cars, probably can't do that on any modern car these days. Lots of MB specific codes only come up when you have a scanner than can read MB specific codes.

 

it's not surprising since I replaced all four of mine just recently as preventive since my car rolled 136k miles so figured I just change them now and good for another 100k miles and see some improvement on gas mileage along with that

 

You replaced all 4 oxygen sensors? You only needed to do the two upstream ones. The downstream ones should last the life of the car and don't need to be changed. The computer basically uses the inputs for the upstream ones to adjust air/fuel mixture. It doesn't really use the downstream ones, the downstream ones are there to basically tell you the cats aren't working. The upstream ones see the raw exhaust and get lazy with time so you see better gas mileage. The downstream ones are after the cats so it sees clean exhaust and don't vary much in value so they don't actually have a lot of work to do and doesn't matter if they're lazy. The upstream/downstream sensors are basically the same, the wiring is typically different which is why they call out for different part numbers depending on the application. I've only done the two upstream ones so far, downstream ones are still original. I've done over 200k in other cars without ever touching the downstream ones.

 

the first shop replaced ALL FOUR SPARK PLUGS , which i cant argue with , since one was corroded and sitting in water, why not put another 3 plugs in there while you are at it, and it did seems to idle better as it was idling rough at possesion

I ONLY replaced one upstream O2 sensor when my scanner kept seeing a recurring O2 code after i rest it several times when it would go into limp mode. I tried cleaning it up first as it had a reddish scale on it but it didnt help. Last time i reset it, there was a p0410 code pending as well

The OIL LEVEL sensor was not a OBD2 code just a dash gauge message. i replaced it, reset entire dash gauge but no idea how to reset just that oil level sensor[my next guess is wire is broken in harness, its a single wire connector]

the advert where i purchased the car went into great detail with pictures and video of it driving. the only problem divulged by the video was the oil sensor message in dash otherwise it was running smoothly and drove perfectly in the video.
i purchased extra insurance to make sure it survived the sea trip over intact.
it was delivered with sunroof cracked open and couldve been rained in for all i know BUT the company denied any wrongdoin or negligence and im basically screwed with a lemon

if i didnt live in buttfkk nowhere saskatchewan 90 miles from nearest big city and failed to purchase about 5 honda civics the previous month or 2 when i couldnt get a ride to buy those cars soon enough before they sold i would never have tried to gamble on an overseas used car that took 12 weeks to be available

 

Why didn't you just replace the O2 sensor? According to the O2 manufacturers, they're only good for 50-60k although car manufacturers don't actually have an interval for replacing them but they do get lazy with age so you'd get better gas mileage anyway with a new one.

I would basically never buy a car sight unseen. Always go see it in person and never take anyone's word for anything. Did they even sell the E200 in your country? For a daily driver I wouldn't bother importing a car that might not have parts available or people who know how to easily fix it. I remember looking at some cars with a friend who was looking for an SUV. One car looked fine in the pictures but the guy had painted over the rust in the bottom of the doors and when we slammed the car door, some rust fell out the bottom of the door. Needless to say we passed. We also ran into a guy who somehow rolled back the odometer, if we hadn't checked the car fax, wouldn't have found it. He basically applied for a duplicate title and put down a lower mileage, he must have swapped the cluster or rolled it back somehow. He just didn't realize all those oil changes with the mileage got reported. Another time we looked at a car, I noticed the exhaust wasn't smooth, it came out fine on one side and not that much on the other. Had my scanner so there was some pending exhaust code and one of the possibilities was a plugged catalytic converter. Dealer said he'd fix any problems but even if he replaced the cat, it meant it was going to be an aftermarket one which would normally only have a 5 year warranty and they don't last as long as the original ones do as they have less platinum in them. Only the CARB ones required in CA are almost as good as new ones. You only find out stuff like that by looking at a car in person.

 

UMM i DID replace the O2 sensor and i explained why i gambled on a overseas car.

your stories dont really apply here
thanx anyways