Retro-fitting power- and manual rear-sunshades- possible ? how expensive?

Thank you in advance!
Thank you in advance!
I had looked into this after I had bought my car and the stealership's service department wanted something close to $3K to get this retro for me (just the 2 sides). They had claimed that the rear was impossible.

I guess the shade rolls up just below the window, so it would be interesting to know if they would only have to replace the part of the panel located directly below the window (between window and wood, above the leather-insert) or the whole non-metall panel. Any ideas??
BTW, if your dealer really asked for 3K for the side-shades only, he's in fact a STEALER...I guess he just told you the rear-retro was impossible because he wasn't interested or capable of doing something else besides selling a new car or performing an oilchange. As I said before, the dealer I called wanted to explain to me that there was no pano-roof option on the E-Class. I would have a bad feeling about such a dealer. Next time, he might try to explain that the Mercedes-Logo would be white and blue showing the letters B-M-W, meaning "Blame My Wife".......(((-;

Good idea about the part-#s! Would be great if an independent dealer/member of this board would have access to give as a reliable price so that nobody gets ripped at the dealer...
Users here quote $116 for rear window sunblind, web site says $84 and my dealer quoted me $124. In addition, side windows were quoted here as $85, MB web site says $148 (for both?), and my dealer quoted me $108 for each.
If anyone knows a good place to order these from, I would greatly appreciate it!
Users here quote $116 for rear window sunblind, web site says $84 and my dealer quoted me $124. In addition, side windows were quoted here as $85, MB web site says $148 (for both?), and my dealer quoted me $108 for each.
If anyone knows a good place to order these from, I would greatly appreciate it!
Web pricing is when ordered with the car. Comes from the dealership sales department. Dunno why it is cheaper than when ordering parts, but it just is.
List price for parts, often quoted here. What you should be able to get the parts for. What MBUSA sets as "list price". What does that mean. Not sure. List price is also the price the parts department charges the sales department for additional accessories fitted to a car at delivery.
Price you get quoted at the parts counter. If you are a walk up customer, the part department for many dealerships will sell you parts at PRICE6, which is list price + added markup. Why do they need to make more? I don't know, there is markup already in the list price. Sometimes the markup isn't very much, like on Navigation DVDs. It's like 4-5%. I guess the dealerships want to recover some of the cost that it takes to have a parts guy do research for you.
Not all US dealerships work this way, but most do. Some places sell at list. Some parts guys sell at list to people they like. I dunno.
-s-
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
If anyone is interested, I have a permanent rear window shade for the W211 that I can sell to you real cheap. I liked it, but I prefer to be able to lower it when I feel like it. So now I have it and it is just sitting around. I also have a hat shelf and a console switch cluster.
Also, if someone wants the parts list for this retrofit, I can post it. The total cost for the retrofit was about $1,700. I know, kind of steep, but if you want it, you want it.
Steve
Steve
-s-
Things to be aware of: The part numbers used for my retrofit are obviously those needed to retrofit ONLY my car and others that are identically equipped. Therefore, part numbers for the rear hat-shelf will be different depending on interior color, rear trunk access, HK sound system (I think) and other things that I have no idea about. The part number for the switches in the dash will also be different depending on if you have heated/ventilated seats and other options. This is just a guide, so don’t get upset if the parts ordered don’t fit or match your car.
In the second scan, the reprogramming of the central gateway was cut off by accident, so remember that if you choose to do this yourself you will still need to do this.
Also, the cable harness was the part that they needed to make the installation undetectable. Because of this harness, there was no need to splice into anything. Everything was done very neatly.
As per Scorchie’s comment about the price being high, I am sure that I could have gotten it cheaper, but no one knew any specifics about this retrofit and the job I had done was so good that I now find it was very much worth it. Mike H, the mechanic, is the boss of the whole shop and is also the only Maybach certified mechanic in Colorado. He is the only one who is allowed to work on my car and always does a brilliant job. Since he never did this, he had to do a lot of research. Since the rear hat-shelf had to come from Germany, they still let me keep an ML loaner for the whole time. This was very nice of them (in spite of the fact that the brand new ML leaked ATF all over my garage floor!). So I paid a relatively high price for this option, but somebody had to actually get it done and eliminated the speculation of it being possible or not, once and for all.
Someone has to bite the bullet,
Steve A.
Someone has to bite the bullet,
Steve A.

On the wiring harness, you NEED the wiring harness not to make it invisible, but to make it work. There is no need for splicing of wires or anything, the wiring harness plugs between the rear SAM and the roller blind, and includes a space for mounting a relay.
Besides the parcel shelf and switch module, you do need the wiring harness, a relay, and a few bolts (some of these were listed on the invoice, some where not). You do not need the extra "covering" as that comes out of the original part. Total time for installation usually runs us under two hours (if people want to take away my rental car during that time they are welcome to do so).
-s-

On the wiring harness, you NEED the wiring harness not to make it invisible, but to make it work. There is no need for splicing of wires or anything, the wiring harness plugs between the rear SAM and the roller blind, and includes a space for mounting a relay.
Besides the parcel shelf and switch module, you do need the wiring harness, a relay, and a few bolts (some of these were listed on the invoice, some where not). You do not need the extra "covering" as that comes out of the original part. Total time for installation usually runs us under two hours (if people want to take away my rental car during that time they are welcome to do so).
-s-
However, if you have done this retrofit and you would want to combine your trip to Colorado and do some snowboarding in Vail, I can possibly hook you up with something.
If you know about this retrofit, please PM me with some specifics so I can decide if it is worth it. For that matter, if you know the pricing details on a TPMS upgrade (I know you posted a parts list) I would possibly be interested in that too.
Steve

On the wiring harness, you NEED the wiring harness not to make it invisible, but to make it work. There is no need for splicing of wires or anything, the wiring harness plugs between the rear SAM and the roller blind, and includes a space for mounting a relay.
Besides the parcel shelf and switch module, you do need the wiring harness, a relay, and a few bolts (some of these were listed on the invoice, some where not). You do not need the extra "covering" as that comes out of the original part. Total time for installation usually runs us under two hours (if people want to take away my rental car during that time they are welcome to do so).
-s-







