E-Class (W211) 2003-2009

Throttle valve actuator problem.

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Old Oct 14, 2024 | 02:34 PM
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Exclamation Throttle valve actuator problem.

So i have a 09 e300, it had an issue with the intake manifold flaps, so as i know that the adjusters which are in plastic are known to break, i got a rebuilt kit, decided to do the job myself, it was not complicated, got the intake manifold off and replaced the parts plus manifold gasket, reinstalled everything back, turned engine on and it ran but a bit rough, i attached a pictures of the codes that the engine was throwing, at first only the 3 first code was showing up, knowing that i messed up not removing the negative of the battery that the throttle body will need to be relearned, so i postponed the relearn for another day because the car was still driving fine. the day of relearn comes, in front of my house i run the procedure, turf off car for 10 seconds and turn it back on, crank engine and now i have the esp light on. i have no more accelerator pedal response, and 2 extra codes appeared as shown in the attachement. car is in safe mode and i cant seem to figure it out. any help would be appreciated.

codes pulled out
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Old Oct 14, 2024 | 10:48 PM
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when you reinstalled the manifold, the gasket moved, misplaced, folded, which cause air leaked. Mostly everybody doing this job themselves ran into this problem (including me! 3 times!). You will have to remove the manifold and reinstall. I and many people had used fishing string, super glue...etc.. many techniques trying to hold the gasket in place... this is the hardest part of this job!!
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Old Oct 15, 2024 | 12:46 AM
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i have to admit, keeping the gasket well positioned was a mission itself, they have this opening that clips on a notch of the manifold to keep it from moving but it did not hold on to it. But i have found the issue and will post what happened.
Thank you for replying!
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Old Oct 15, 2024 | 12:57 AM
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SOLVED**

I went back and removed the engine cover and everything to have access to the throttle body, notice the connector was loose and came out without any force. I probably had it half plugged in explaining the fact that the first 2 days it was driving fine but with some codes i guess, and then with the vibration it got completely loose. But now that all is plugged in good i cleared the codes and turned the car back on and was back to normal, no check engine, limp mode gone. Test drove it for 30 mins and all went well.
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