Sticking rear passenger Caliper
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham, Al
E 63 AMG
Sticking rear passenger Caliper
I have a slight break dilemma. Sorry for the long message. I just wanted to be as detailed as possible.
I have a 2004 E320 with 52k miles on it. About 8 months ago I swapped out the Caliper and rotors for E55 AMG calipers and rotors. I bought all new caliper seals, piston boots, hardware, and pins from the dealer. I completely stripped the calipers and had them powder coated and I rebuilt them which was not hard at all.
I was driving and all of a sudden I felt heavy pulsating upon braking. When got off the interstate all I heard was a loud continuous squeal coming from the rear. When I made it home I used my infrared temperature gun to measure the temperature of each rotor. 3 measured within a few degrees of each other (170*). The rear passenger caliper measured 380* indicating possibly being seized.
I removed the hardware and pads and the piston moved back with ease. I then put the pads back in a pressed the brakes to extend the caliper pistons and all 4 came out with no issue. I also bled the caliper and it did seem to have some air bubbles.
I put everything back on and went on a test drive and everything was fine until and 30 minutes of brake testing. The same caliper is having I sticking issue. I don’t know what it is at this point. And I don’t thick the SBC pump is the problem. I can hear it activate and I don’t have any dash codes or errors.
I have a 2004 E320 with 52k miles on it. About 8 months ago I swapped out the Caliper and rotors for E55 AMG calipers and rotors. I bought all new caliper seals, piston boots, hardware, and pins from the dealer. I completely stripped the calipers and had them powder coated and I rebuilt them which was not hard at all.
I was driving and all of a sudden I felt heavy pulsating upon braking. When got off the interstate all I heard was a loud continuous squeal coming from the rear. When I made it home I used my infrared temperature gun to measure the temperature of each rotor. 3 measured within a few degrees of each other (170*). The rear passenger caliper measured 380* indicating possibly being seized.
I removed the hardware and pads and the piston moved back with ease. I then put the pads back in a pressed the brakes to extend the caliper pistons and all 4 came out with no issue. I also bled the caliper and it did seem to have some air bubbles.
I put everything back on and went on a test drive and everything was fine until and 30 minutes of brake testing. The same caliper is having I sticking issue. I don’t know what it is at this point. And I don’t thick the SBC pump is the problem. I can hear it activate and I don’t have any dash codes or errors.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,086
Likes: 442
From: Melbourne, Australia
2010 ML550 VIN WDC1641722A564750, 2010 B180
Try releasing the bleeder valve when the caliper is stuck. If it releases the pads from the disk, its probably not the caliper. Work your way back from there and check for any collapsed rubber brake lines or crushed alloy ones. Has your fluid level changed at all?
See this similar thread
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post9114440
See this similar thread
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post9114440
Last edited by BlackML550; Feb 27, 2025 at 05:58 AM.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Birmingham, Al
E 63 AMG
Try releasing the bleeder valve when the caliper is stuck. If it releases the pads from the disk, its probably not the caliper. Work your way back from there and check for any collapsed rubber brake lines or crushed alloy ones. Has your fluid level changed at all?
See this similar thread
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post9114440
See this similar thread
https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post9114440
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2021
Posts: 528
Likes: 157
2006 E280
Brake hoses may look fine from the outside, but they fail from the inside, not allowing fluid to get out from the caliper.
I had one fail the other way where the inner hose ruptured. It was scary feeling when you applied brakes and vehicle darts to right because on the left fluid got between the inner and outer hose, thus giving zero brakes on the front left.
Outside of the hose had nothing to indicate the issue on the inside.
I had one fail the other way where the inner hose ruptured. It was scary feeling when you applied brakes and vehicle darts to right because on the left fluid got between the inner and outer hose, thus giving zero brakes on the front left.
Outside of the hose had nothing to indicate the issue on the inside.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,086
Likes: 442
From: Melbourne, Australia
2010 ML550 VIN WDC1641722A564750, 2010 B180
Brake hoses may look fine from the outside, but they fail from the inside, not allowing fluid to get out from the caliper.
I had one fail the other way where the inner hose ruptured. It was scary feeling when you applied brakes and vehicle darts to right because on the left fluid got between the inner and outer hose, thus giving zero brakes on the front left.
Outside of the hose had nothing to indicate the issue on the inside.
I had one fail the other way where the inner hose ruptured. It was scary feeling when you applied brakes and vehicle darts to right because on the left fluid got between the inner and outer hose, thus giving zero brakes on the front left.
Outside of the hose had nothing to indicate the issue on the inside.
