PLEASE HELP!!!
PLEASE HELP!!!
hello, i need help with my 2002 W211 E220 CDI
After a night of heavy rain, the car started but won't accelerate and won't go past 10 km/h.. now the car won't start at all, it cranks but no start.
after checking the car had water leaks on the front fuse box and rear battery area... checked every thing and it seemed fine... sent the ECU in for checks and everything is fine..seems like diesel isn’t getting to the injectors.. also have a ton of error codes… like 30-40 codes! high or low voltage ones.. where can i check next? thank you!
After a night of heavy rain, the car started but won't accelerate and won't go past 10 km/h.. now the car won't start at all, it cranks but no start.
after checking the car had water leaks on the front fuse box and rear battery area... checked every thing and it seemed fine... sent the ECU in for checks and everything is fine..seems like diesel isn’t getting to the injectors.. also have a ton of error codes… like 30-40 codes! high or low voltage ones.. where can i check next? thank you!
You know the issue starts with water. Pull out everything that got wet, check all connectors and fuses.
Save then Reset the codes.
But OBVIOUSLY this is a water ingress issue. It isn’t going to involve pushing a button and all is good. If SAMS or fusebox got wet you need to see inside.
There is no “normal” or acceptable amount of water in electronics. Any at all can be catestrophic. Anywhere you see white or green crust has to be cleaned to bare metal. White or green crust on a circuit board can sometimes be cleared away, but there could be permanent damage under the crusties.
Hoping it dries out isn’t going to fix it.
Save then Reset the codes.
But OBVIOUSLY this is a water ingress issue. It isn’t going to involve pushing a button and all is good. If SAMS or fusebox got wet you need to see inside.
There is no “normal” or acceptable amount of water in electronics. Any at all can be catestrophic. Anywhere you see white or green crust has to be cleaned to bare metal. White or green crust on a circuit board can sometimes be cleared away, but there could be permanent damage under the crusties.
Hoping it dries out isn’t going to fix it.
You know the issue starts with water. Pull out everything that got wet, check all connectors and fuses.
Save then Reset the codes.
But OBVIOUSLY this is a water ingress issue. It isn’t going to involve pushing a button and all is good. If SAMS or fusebox got wet you need to see inside.
There is no “normal” or acceptable amount of water in electronics. Any at all can be catestrophic. Anywhere you see white or green crust has to be cleaned to bare metal. White or green crust on a circuit board can sometimes be cleared away, but there could be permanent damage under the crusties.
Hoping it dries out isn’t going to fix it.
Save then Reset the codes.
But OBVIOUSLY this is a water ingress issue. It isn’t going to involve pushing a button and all is good. If SAMS or fusebox got wet you need to see inside.
There is no “normal” or acceptable amount of water in electronics. Any at all can be catestrophic. Anywhere you see white or green crust has to be cleaned to bare metal. White or green crust on a circuit board can sometimes be cleared away, but there could be permanent damage under the crusties.
Hoping it dries out isn’t going to fix it.
Look, you KNOW the issue is with water ingress.
You KNOW what got wet.
You have 3 choices:
1. Take to dealer, they will throw parts at it until it works, expect bill between $3K-$10K.
2. Take to Indy. They will throw parts at it until it works, expect bill between $1K-$5K.
3. Figure it out yourself. Look up all those codes. Check every mentioned module. Test every fuse. If you really and truly can’t find a single thing wrong (doubtful) then replace the major bits that got soaked. ie, SAM and any other modules. Expect bill between $0-$2K.
Years back, everything in a car ran on 12V and you could easily track the power to where it crapped out and fix. Now, a microswitch sends a signal at miniscule voltage to tell a microprocessor that you want to open the rear window. A CPU decides that all parameters are met, it OKs a relay somewhere far away to close, sending 12V to a motor. Another microswitch tells the microprocessor that the window has reached the end of travel, it signals the relay to open the 12V connection. If water gets in, the tiny switching voltages can get leaked or blended. The CPUs get weird signals and don’t ever send the power, or send it to wrong place, etc. A little bit of water can do a lot of damage without blowing fuses or melting wires. It just messes up those low voltage signals and nothing works anymore.
You KNOW WHAT GOT WET. These problems came from there. You have to track them down. Or preemptively swap out the expensive modules. Just don’t buy used stuff that is “Theft Relevant” as it will need coding.
You KNOW what got wet.
You have 3 choices:
1. Take to dealer, they will throw parts at it until it works, expect bill between $3K-$10K.
2. Take to Indy. They will throw parts at it until it works, expect bill between $1K-$5K.
3. Figure it out yourself. Look up all those codes. Check every mentioned module. Test every fuse. If you really and truly can’t find a single thing wrong (doubtful) then replace the major bits that got soaked. ie, SAM and any other modules. Expect bill between $0-$2K.
Years back, everything in a car ran on 12V and you could easily track the power to where it crapped out and fix. Now, a microswitch sends a signal at miniscule voltage to tell a microprocessor that you want to open the rear window. A CPU decides that all parameters are met, it OKs a relay somewhere far away to close, sending 12V to a motor. Another microswitch tells the microprocessor that the window has reached the end of travel, it signals the relay to open the 12V connection. If water gets in, the tiny switching voltages can get leaked or blended. The CPUs get weird signals and don’t ever send the power, or send it to wrong place, etc. A little bit of water can do a lot of damage without blowing fuses or melting wires. It just messes up those low voltage signals and nothing works anymore.
You KNOW WHAT GOT WET. These problems came from there. You have to track them down. Or preemptively swap out the expensive modules. Just don’t buy used stuff that is “Theft Relevant” as it will need coding.






