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So for a week now the car isnt starting intermittently. Usually it does after it is already warm , like when i drive for sometime and then stop to put gas lets say. It wont start. Battery is at 12.5 and when the car runs is at 14.2 so everything works as it should. So even when its cold outside (pretty much everyday here in Quebec) it starts no problem. When the car is already warm it may take up to 4-5 minutes of trying. The starter doesnt turn but you can hear something trying to move. So i guess the starter is going bad , maybe a solenoid or something... After those 4-5 minutes trying with the key on and off the car will start without any problem/delay/weird sound like there is nothing wrong. I checked the service history of my car from the previous owner and i can see that 20.000kms and 2 years ago they either refurbished the starter on installed a refurbished one. 2 years and the starter going bad again ? Weird right ?
Not so weird. Rebuilt/reman components come in varying quality and price points. Odds are the starter/solenoid is responsible. Your 4matic does an excellent job of hiding the starter so getting to it for DIY diagnosis isn’t practical. Instead, try this. I don’t know the limits of your mechanical skillset but IF you are familiar with a 12 volt test lamp you will easily be able to determine whether the failure point is at the starter or upstream through the convoluted communications path back to the key. Slide both latches to UNLOCK on the front left fuse and relay module lid beneath the left side engine hood hinge. Remove the lid. Immediately, you are staring at connector B2 toward the front of the module. There is a fat, bright purple with blue stripe wire leading out of B2…it goes directly to the starter solenoid. Probe the test lamp down into the socket with that wire. No need to disconnect anything. While the car is “broken”, with a helper, someone needs to attempt to start the car, while you observe the test lamp. While that someone holds the key in the crank position does the lamp light? If is does…STARTER/SOLENOID. If it doesn’t, you need professional diagnostic assistance. Connector B2 up front with Purple/white wire to starter
Is this the M112 engine? If so, check the CPS, Crankshaft Position Sensor. Known to go bad. When the sensor starts failing, you get the issues you described. No codes, just won't start when the car has been driven. What is worse is that the car might stall on you while the car is running. The part is fairly inexpensive and even your local auto parts store may have something. I would just replace it as your car is over 20 years old.
The only issue is the location of the sensor. If you have skinny arms, you might be able to reach it from the top of the engine.
@F1Fan
Filgarg2 observed the starter does not turn. A defective CKP crank sensor will inhibit starting...not cranking. I agree that replacement of the CKP as preventive maintenance is a great idea. Just not going to fix his current issue.
My 2003 E 320 does the same thing. My, new to me, car had a used starter in a new starter box. I'm thinking PO put a new starter on it and what's in the box is the old one for a core?
My 2003 E 320 does the same thing. My, new to me, car had a used starter in a new starter box. I'm thinking PO put a new starter on it and what's in the box is the old one for a core?
try replacing your crank position sensor since it's obvious a new starter is already in there, however i would still try the steps that starman above stated to do on checking the purple cable for 12V just for completeness.
E 320 gas engine. Using @BenzNinja laptop I connected Xentry and navigated my way into the "start operation" values. From there I could monitor what gear the transmission is in and if the Starter Lockout Contact was "Open" or "Closed". Using the "actual values" option I went for a drive with the laptop in the car. After driving far enough to trigger a no crank (good and warmed up) I parked and put the car in park. Xentry showed the car in park but the Starter Lockout Contact was in the "Closed" state which would not allow the car to crank. At this point I felt like I had the smoking gun.
I took the 3 connectors to the shifter and shift module off and checked the pins. Not finding anything wrong with the pins, I cleaned them with electrical contact cleaner and put it back together. Testing showed the Starter Lockout Contact matching up with the gear selector. Meaning it was "Open" when in park or neutral and "Closed" when in reverse or drive. I've driven the car long enough to trigger the no crank issue several times over with it starting correctly every time. I would not have gotten here without the @BenzNinja/Xentry solution or the training I've picked up when @BenzNinja remotes in to work on my car. This is getting fun learning, one baby step at a time, how this car works.
Sorry for the delay and not replying. Car stopped doing it for a while and now did it to me a couple times yesterday night. So i paid more attention while my wife tried to start the car without any luck for a couple times and you can hear the starter turning like half a turn or trying to and then stops. After some tries it starts perfectly fine. At the same time i started thinking what i did when this issue started. This issue started right after i pressure washed the undercarriage of the car on a very cold day with a temp of maybe -20c outside. Im thinking that maybe water/moisture got inside the solenoid of the starter and acting weird now that its still cold. At the same time my wife (she has her own key) never had an issue. Like ever . She drives the car every day too to work and back . So , really im not sure what is going on.
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