Definitely not tire pressure. It shudders when cutting wheel into parking spaces, etc. Simple rolling speeds, like 5mph max.

 

Car went in and had a new transfer case installed. Upon return problem was still there. I called MB and told them that the problem was still there, but I'd give it a week or so to see if it wears in.

Over the next two weeks it became significantly worse. So bad, in fact, that I was hesitant to drive it. So MB picked up the car again and inspected it. Decided to put in a whole new DRIVE-TRAIN!!!! But an entire drive-train can not just be shipped in. They have to have it brought in by a flat bed truck. So now we are waiting for MB to have it brought via a semi. I have the car back and they swear I wont hurt it (or me) by driving it. But the shudder keeps getting significantly worse and at higher speeds, and less turning radius. It can't be good for any components connected to the fault can it?

BTW, my dealer called MBUSA and they were told that the problem appears to be with the transfer of energy; something about the energy going in, isn't equating to the energy coming out.

I'll keep everyone updated.

 

WOW! Very strange that my issue 100% disappeared once the frigid temps lifted.

 

Just arrived back in town this evening and MB has left a message that the new drive-train is in. WOW THAT WAS FAST! (About 10 days). So tomorrow I will call and reschedule. I did drive the car on the highway for 4 hours today and it did seem to make the issue a little better. It is still there when I turn sharply, but not as abrasive.

 

Same thing happened on my wife's C-Class. Temps went above 40 and smooth as butter like before. Go figure...

 

That rules out the "bugs" one could get w/ the first year of a new model. Something is up!

 

Car was picked up Sunday evening and just dropped off at noon today (Tuesday). Complete new transmission was installed. Haven't driven it yet. Will post in a couple of days once I've had some time to drive it.

 

SO far so good. Except it BANGS into 3rd gear either downshifting or upshifting. Its kind of fun. Not sure if I'm going to have that addressed yet.

 

Enzo - Please keep us posted. I experienced the same vibration during slow, sharp turns (i.e. parking into parking spaces). My dealership said it was the transfer case and one is on order. My transmission was changed at approx. 35k miles, and now the transfer case at approx. 56k miles. My CPO warranty expires this November, so I'm watching everything very closely.

Thanks.

 

I think the problem is finally fixed. No more shudder when turning tight & slow. If there are any more developments, Ill be sure to post about it here. If you don't hear from me, all is good.

 

Hey guys,

I had the same problem yesterday and the dealership tried to BS me, saying the spark plugs needed changing. My car only has 78k mi!! The sparks plugs go to 100k.

How did you convince them to change the transfer case? They only offered to change out my fluid. What did you have to say to them, or how did they chain of events go?

Thanks for your help. :-)

 

I'm getting good at resurrecting old threads.
I'm having the same issue.
Problems:
1. Vibration when turning the steering all the way to the left or right, tight turns at slow speeds etc.
2. Jerky shifts from 2-3 or 3-4 as well as down shifts.

Back in 2017 around 46k , they did a software update and in a week time, the issue is back. They replaced K1 Clutch pack and did a tranny rebuilt under factory warranty.
Fast forward 65k miles 2018-2019, the issue is back. Steps like firmware update is repeated this time as well.
Currently vehicle is at the shop and hopefully it will be covered under ELW.
BTW, it doesn't matter the temperature outside. I've had this issue in summer as well.
Now, a silly question: Does this comes under a lemon law? My warranty will expire on June 2020 or 100k miles. I love this car and I want to keep it as far as it could server me.

 

I know this is an old thread, but any updates after that? Do you still own the car or moved on?

 

Update:
The vibration issue is because of a failed transfer case planetary carrier. and IT IS covered under warranty.

 

I have a 2013 GLK 350 4Matic with 49,000 miles, I have slight vibration/humming when turning at low speeds when coming out/coming into a parking spot. Is the issue the transfer Case?

 

Most likely, see attached bulletin.

 

Okay thanks I noticed it didn’t do it this morning

 

How long do I have to fix it? Can I wait a a while or do I have to fix it right away?

 

I don’t have to drop the transmission to do this repair correct?

 

I have vibration when turning right and left while the car is stopped, however while driving the car it is normal my car is E 300 2012 millage 94000 km my question is that a normal and common in this model. Any reply will be appreciated

 

Have the same issue - went to the dealer and was told the same thing. Quoted at 1593$ plus tax for a new "planetary gear".

They said that if I don't fix this, my whole transmission/transfer case will break. Are they trying to scare me or is it true? What happens if I just leave it?

Thank you!

 

Ask your dealer why you don't have the issue other than when turning.

 

I did, their reply was something like "it's starting to break, if you leave it it'll get worse and eventually your transmission and/or steering will break". Is this true? Is that what a broken planetary gear does?

 

Funny comment "it's starting to break, if you leave it it'll get worse and eventually your transmission and/or steering will break". First of all this has nothing to do with the steering so who made the comment gave you just a blah, blah to scare you to do the repair.

Yes, obviously repair is needed but I personally don't think it is as bad situation as they make it sound like. What the problem with planetary carrier I think is with the clutch pack that I understand is built into it. This clutch pack would be the center differential lock between front and rear axles. You feel the shaking / vibration at turns because that is when you generate speed difference between front and rear axles and the differential lock has to slip to allow this speed difference. The clutch pack is going bad and is not allowing for a smooth slip.

The problem obviously is that during original manufacturing the clutch pack is not lubricated properly and this is why the service bulletin specifically instructs to soak the part in oil before installation. This is to soak the clutch disk friction material so it is properly lubricated.

I don't know in detail how MB built this part. If it is built very cheap way (would be hard to believe from MB) the wearing clutch pack would allow the gear wheels shift sideways and possibly allow them to come in contact with parts they are not supposed to come in contact with. I don't believe MB would have made this kind of design so the problem really is that the friction material layers on the clutch disks are wearing and when totally worn then you get metal to metal contact that would not be good as this could cause bigger issues but even this to me does not sound really a catastrophic failure. You would not have center differential locking basically at all but in dry conditions this would not be an issue.

Found the below utube link. It is about a S-class transfer case but I believe it is built the same way on E-class.

 

Wow this is a great reply, thank you so much! Question though - when you say "You would not have center differential locking", what exactly would that result in? A broken transmission? Loss of 4Matic? Is this the worst that could happen?

The car is a 2014 C300, but with 195,000km. It's my understanding that in the W204 model the transfer case is attached to the transmission (and uses the same fuel) so it's harder to service.

I bought it used, it passed an inspection at MB but this was the only thing they found. I don't put in more than 5000km a year - should I pay the 1600$ + tax to fix this in your opinion?