Headlight Project on W212
Well long story short, all of these newer style headlight manufacturers use urethane to seal the housings and boy its no easy task to separate them
After
and using a ton of heat and muscle
we were able to get them apart. Once apart I was able to see why this light was half the cost of the OEM light :roll eyes:We removed all of the chrome plastic finishings inside the housing and had our buddy prep them for paint. A fews hours later we had a beautiful set of satin black reflect ( contradiction )
Reassembly took place and 
and the lights were installed back in. Side note : If your going to do this, pay the extra money and get the OEM housings. Fitment blew on these
but after some tweaking they were in


Front Grill is painted Glossy black .
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I would prefer a liiitle more contrast inside the housing, more like the E63's stock lights, and with P2 lights (which it looks like the O/P's car isn't?) you'd be able to see the LED "crystal bulb" parking lights really pop out and look cool I'd think.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
The main thing I found on the M and E55 projectors was that the cutoff was a bit sharper than the kit I installed but (for me) not enough to warrant a full retrofit. The P1's also retain a clear double step cutoff (driver lowest, step up to passenger, step up to right shoulder). Overall, IMO I found the install of this kit to be both cost and light effective.
I'd be interested in seeing how a bixenon retrofit project winds up - in past retrofits I installed a diode in the harness so that the low beams stay on when the hi beams are selected to activate the shutters. For those wondering what the heck shutters are, they are metal plates attached to a solenoid. The plates block off a portion of the light output for low beams, then flip up (or down) further for full lighting for high beams. In a retrofit to a single bi-xenon lamp, if the car had separate hi and lo beam lamps, you need the diode (or wiring mod) to ensure that the HID bulb will stay on when hi beams are selected and that the hi beam selector now activates the solenoid. This is because typically the lo beams turn off when the high beams are selected in most OEM applications. If you didn't modify the wiring your new lights would go off when you clicked the hi beams on.
Clear as Mud
Headlamps are safety equipment, and unless you have a degree in engineering, work in optical design and are familiar with DOT safety regulations then leave them alone. It's not just how well you can see down the road, its what other people have to deal with when they stare down your modified lights. Police can pull you over and ticket you if they find that your lights are modified. Think about the other driver FIRST.
What gets me is that even the OEM factory setups in vehicles seem to be getting more and more intrusive, SUV's seem to be at the forefront of this, blinding.
Wonder if they are also thinking of the other driver FIRST.
Endless topic on all lighting forums....
Well long story short, all of these newer style headlight manufacturers use urethane to seal the housings and boy its no easy task to separate them
After
and using a ton of heat and muscle
we were able to get them apart. Once apart I was able to see why this light was half the cost of the OEM light :roll eyes:We removed all of the chrome plastic finishings inside the housing and had our buddy prep them for paint. A fews hours later we had a beautiful set of satin black reflect ( contradiction )
Reassembly took place and 
and the lights were installed back in. Side note : If your going to do this, pay the extra money and get the OEM housings. Fitment blew on these
but after some tweaking they were in













