Deals on 2012 W212
05-25-2012, 08:44 PM
#176
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2017 E300 • 2016 Tesla Model S 75D
Went back to the dealership and redid the contract with 10 Mulpitle Security Deposits (10 x $500) and the monthly payment is now $416 + $38 sales tax for a total of $454 per month.
05-26-2012, 06:27 PM
#177
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'11 GL450
That's fantastic deal! I talked to my sales and he said its impossible to get deals like this. Let me ask some other dealerships. I'll be interested in getting one at that price.
05-26-2012, 07:02 PM
#178
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2017 E300 • 2016 Tesla Model S 75D
Some, or most, salesmen will say that a deal like this is impossible because they aren't familiar with the Multiple Security Deposit program. They don't realize how significant the drop is in the montly payment due to it and when they hear "$454 per month for a brand new E350" their first reaction is "no way is that possible".
We ended up going to two dealerships and the first one (that we didn't buy from becuase they tried to swindle us) said the exact same thing, actually saying "I've had people call me saying they can get a new E Class for under $500/month and that is just not possible".
The other thing is, if you go in and from the start tell them the price you want to be at because you saw it online, and tell them exactly how and why, they may be reluctant to do it as they will make very little money. They always try and play the monthly payment game but if all you concentrate on is the sale price of the car, then the math will work out to where you will have a low monthly payment as long as they don't lie about other factors like the money factor or residual.
First negotiate the price of the car, don't talk about payments or how much you want to put down or anything, just the price of the car. Once you establish that, then ask what the residual is and what the money factor is. As long as you have good credit, you should get the base money factor that is set by Mercedes Financial (0.0025), the dealership should not raise this. Residual should be 77% on 10k, 75% on 12k and 74% on 15k miles (for the 2012 Bluetec).
With these figures, you can plug them into an online lease calculator and it will give you the exact payment. The dealer may try and tell you that your calculations are wrong, which is what the first dealership told us (and we promplty walked out). They can't be wrong, it's all simple math and if their numbers don't match yours, then they either added some fees somewhere or they are lying about what money factor they are really giving you.
Don't be afraid to corrent them either. The first dealership I went to tried to tell me that the 0.0025 money factor is incorrect and that it's actually 0.00331. I insisted, told them I found that information in multiple places online and said I would take my business elsewhere if they do not give me the 0.0025. They finally did and made the excuse that they based the 0.00331 on not as good credit, though they had never even ran our credit yet.
Good luck and ask if you have any other questions.
We ended up going to two dealerships and the first one (that we didn't buy from becuase they tried to swindle us) said the exact same thing, actually saying "I've had people call me saying they can get a new E Class for under $500/month and that is just not possible".
The other thing is, if you go in and from the start tell them the price you want to be at because you saw it online, and tell them exactly how and why, they may be reluctant to do it as they will make very little money. They always try and play the monthly payment game but if all you concentrate on is the sale price of the car, then the math will work out to where you will have a low monthly payment as long as they don't lie about other factors like the money factor or residual.
First negotiate the price of the car, don't talk about payments or how much you want to put down or anything, just the price of the car. Once you establish that, then ask what the residual is and what the money factor is. As long as you have good credit, you should get the base money factor that is set by Mercedes Financial (0.0025), the dealership should not raise this. Residual should be 77% on 10k, 75% on 12k and 74% on 15k miles (for the 2012 Bluetec).
With these figures, you can plug them into an online lease calculator and it will give you the exact payment. The dealer may try and tell you that your calculations are wrong, which is what the first dealership told us (and we promplty walked out). They can't be wrong, it's all simple math and if their numbers don't match yours, then they either added some fees somewhere or they are lying about what money factor they are really giving you.
Don't be afraid to corrent them either. The first dealership I went to tried to tell me that the 0.0025 money factor is incorrect and that it's actually 0.00331. I insisted, told them I found that information in multiple places online and said I would take my business elsewhere if they do not give me the 0.0025. They finally did and made the excuse that they based the 0.00331 on not as good credit, though they had never even ran our credit yet.
Good luck and ask if you have any other questions.
