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Swirl marks galore on glossy B-Pillar trim. Best way to get out?

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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 10:39 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by steelgrey
The reason that you are seeing the hazing is that Scratch-X is fairly abrasive (By the way what did you use to apply the Scratch-X?) Polishing the paint is a multi step project. Removing paint swirls and scratches/blemishes can require as many as five different compounds/polishes each applied with a pad of diminishing cutting properties until you end up with a final polish with almost no abrasive properties and a black or red polishing pad which also has no abrasive properties. Your mistake was starting out with a product that although not highly abrasive was a little too much. The key is to always start in the other direction beginning with the least abrasive product and corresponding pad that you feel will do the job and if that doesn't work then go with the next more abrasive combo until you remove the defects. Then back the other way being gentler until the paint is highly polished. You now need to polish out the haze with a gentler polish and a foam application pad. I use Menzerna polishes so I'm not sure what's available at an Autozone etc. Just pay attention to the abrasive levels. People who enjoy detailing (and own two black cars like myself) have cupboards full of products/pads. Always searching for that do everything product. In the end there are no shortcuts.
Good post, and having Black cars myself I found out the hard way that most products you get at auto stores, wal-mart, etc. just don't cut it with that ceramic paint. I had to move up to machine polish and using the more professional lines of Meg's, Menzerna, and Swissvax.

Question, have you ever used Souveran?
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 10:59 PM
  #27  
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I used a soft cotton towel for it (one of the ones you buy that are intended for "detailing"). Problem with all this is if I want to get more aggressive, I have to do it all in direct, low sunlight, just before the sun sets. Or else I can't see the imperfections at all to know whether or not I'm making any progress.

What a buzzkil! This is why I hate black!
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 11:08 PM
  #28  
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Definitely a multistep process and is exactly like steel said. I many times use a light polish and work it more as I hate using cutting cleaners unless it's really a bad blemish. In some cases I wet sand scratches out if they are deep. It's a step by step process gradually using less and less abrasive products till you get a mirrow shine without an inkling of a swirl. I don't care if it's plastic. Same process works and have done plexiglass using the same process for paint. Secret is using a good rondom orbital like a Flexx. For the A-Pillars I would have used a light swirl remover with diminishing abrasives then a finishing glaze with diminishing abrasives. Don't hide scratches with emoilents, waxes, and fillers, remove them properly. Cause many of you will be dissapointed at the car wash drying station after those oils and waxes have diminished or washed off.
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 11:20 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by bigben320e
Good post, and having Black cars myself I found out the hard way that most products you get at auto stores, wal-mart, etc. just don't cut it with that ceramic paint. I had to move up to machine polish and using the more professional lines of Meg's, Menzerna, and Swissvax.

Question, have you ever used Souveran?
I have not tried Souveran...it is just too expensive. As far as waxes go I've used P21S 100% pure carnuba. I personally prefer sealants. I've used Wolfgangs, Menzerna Power Lock Polymer, and Blackfire. Of the three I like the Blackfire Wet Diamond with Blackfire Deep Gloss Spray as a QD.
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 11:35 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by K-A
I used a soft cotton towel for it (one of the ones you buy that are intended for "detailing"). Problem with all this is if I want to get more aggressive, I have to do it all in direct, low sunlight, just before the sun sets. Or else I can't see the imperfections at all to know whether or not I'm making any progress.

What a buzzkil! This is why I hate black!

Soft cotton towels will put more swirl marks in. Only let Microfiber touch your car.
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 11:42 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by K-A
I used a soft cotton towel for it (one of the ones you buy that are intended for "detailing"). Problem with all this is if I want to get more aggressive, I have to do it all in direct, low sunlight, just before the sun sets. Or else I can't see the imperfections at all to know whether or not I'm making any progress.

What a buzzkil! This is why I hate black!
Unfortunately a cotton towel has too much tooth to use with Scratch-X. It would be better to use a foam or microfiber applicator pad and wipe off with a microfiber towel. You will still need a less abrasive polish to remove the haze. Again foam applicator/microfiber towel. It would be best to work in a garage and check your work with a Brinkmann Dual Xenon gun or a halogen shop light.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 12:11 AM
  #32  
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(*&%#(*%&

Now I know I shouldn't have used a cotton. All while I had Microfibers AND an applicator pad in the trunk.

I guess I'll just try it again at some point. What do I have to lose.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 02:39 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by K-A
(*&%#(*%&

Now I know I shouldn't have used a cotton. All while I had Microfibers AND an applicator pad in the trunk.

I guess I'll just try it again at some point. What do I have to lose.
Uhhh...you actually used cotton towels. Well, I hope that doesn't look too bad. Microfiber like they said 80/20 blend.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 10:58 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by bigben320e
Uhhh...you actually used cotton towels. Well, I hope that doesn't look too bad. Microfiber like they said 80/20 blend.
Microfiber doesn't have enough bite at times. I found foam with a light polish, or cotton with a clear plastic polish worked best on the outside pillar material. Microfiber on paint, is absolutely worthless for anything but bird ****.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 11:51 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by thekurgan
Microfiber doesn't have enough bite at times. I found foam with a light polish, or cotton with a clear plastic polish worked best on the outside pillar material. Microfiber on paint, is absolutely worthless for anything but bird ****.
NOT TRUE AT ALL. Like everything else about detailing, you need to have the correct MF for the proper job. I have a huge assortment of MF with everything ranging for high pile to no pile whatsoever.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 03:39 PM
  #36  
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I have a 2011 E350 that I only use 100% Zaino cotton towels on (The white border free ones), and I have very minimal swirling.
In other words, cotton towels are great, but only the Zaino ones. I barely use microfiber and my black car has barely any swirls, except on the bumpers, because the dealer really messed up my rear bumper and instilled so many (literally thousands of) swirls on it during the new car prep. Too bad I can't get rid of them. The dealer said that when they used their machine to remove water spots on the rear bumper, they removed almost all of the clear coat so they told me not to use abrasives on the rear bumper like Scratch-X, otherwise I'll cut into the clear. I was going to buy a paint thickness meter, only to find out that they cost a few hundred dollars...FML

I never use microfiber anymore for drying, applying waxes, etc...but I do use the Costco microfibers for applying Menzerna. I use the foam pads for Scratch-X, which sadly, leaves an ugly haze.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 04:20 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by enzo thecat
NOT TRUE AT ALL. Like everything else about detailing, you need to have the correct MF for the proper job. I have a huge assortment of MF with everything ranging for high pile to no pile whatsoever.
Meh, I agree to disagree, especially with the nano ceramic clear on these cars. If this were soft Honda paint, breathing on it will impart, or remove scratches
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 05:54 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by enzo thecat
NOT TRUE AT ALL. Like everything else about detailing, you need to have the correct MF for the proper job. I have a huge assortment of MF with everything ranging for high pile to no pile whatsoever.
the capital "MF" really makes my day .
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 10:35 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by amaycg
I have a 2011 E350 that I only use 100% Zaino cotton towels on (The white border free ones), and I have very minimal swirling.
In other words, cotton towels are great, but only the Zaino ones. I barely use microfiber and my black car has barely any swirls, except on the bumpers, because the dealer really messed up my rear bumper and instilled so many (literally thousands of) swirls on it during the new car prep. Too bad I can't get rid of them. The dealer said that when they used their machine to remove water spots on the rear bumper, they removed almost all of the clear coat so they told me not to use abrasives on the rear bumper like Scratch-X, otherwise I'll cut into the clear. I was going to buy a paint thickness meter, only to find out that they cost a few hundred dollars...FML

I never use microfiber anymore for drying, applying waxes, etc...but I do use the Costco microfibers for applying Menzerna. I use the foam pads for Scratch-X, which sadly, leaves an ugly haze.
Paint thickness meters don't work very well on plastic but I would really ream the dealer for screwing up the clear on your bumper. They owe you a respray of clear coat.
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 01:04 PM
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Ahhh it was so long ago, they didn't even document what they did...
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 02:49 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by thekurgan
Microfiber doesn't have enough bite at times. I found foam with a light polish, or cotton with a clear plastic polish worked best on the outside pillar material. Microfiber on paint, is absolutely worthless for anything but bird ****.
Question then...why do so many professional detailers use microfiber then?
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 04:04 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by thekurgan
Meh, I agree to disagree, especially with the nano ceramic clear on these cars. If this were soft Honda paint, breathing on it will impart, or remove scratches
I just used microfiber to get out some gnarly scratches on our black r class. And if that isnt enough proof for ya, I just detailed my brothers 2007 black CLS 550 (60K miles) that has never passed a crappy carwash without stopping.

Behold, The power of Micro fiber:


before and after shots
Attached Thumbnails Swirl marks galore on glossy B-Pillar trim. Best way to get out?-img_0229.jpg   Swirl marks galore on glossy B-Pillar trim. Best way to get out?-img_0232.jpg   Swirl marks galore on glossy B-Pillar trim. Best way to get out?-img_0233.jpg  
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 06:02 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by enzo thecat
I just used microfiber to get out some gnarly scratches on our black r class. And if that isnt enough proof for ya, I just detailed my brothers 2007 black CLS 550 (60K miles) that has never passed a crappy carwash without stopping.

Behold, The power of Micro fiber:


before and after shots
Impressive by hand, yes.
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 06:03 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by bigben320e
Question then...why do so many professional detailers use microfiber then?
Removal of the cleaner/polish/wax. There aren't many pros who use microfiber with a flex or a rotary.
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 08:23 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by thekurgan
Impressive by hand, yes.
Just to be clear. Polish application was on McGuiers microfiber buffing pads on a Porter Cable Random Orbital. Then removal with MF towels and Zaino on and off with MF towels.


e

Last edited by enzo thecat; Jan 8, 2012 at 09:29 PM.
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 10:28 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by enzo thecat
Just to be clear. Polish application was on McGuiers microfiber buffing pads on a Porter Cable Random Orbital. Then removal with MF towels and Zaino on and off with MF towels.


e
Oh, sorry man, I was thinking the OP didn't have any type of machine. I have seen the MF on the porter cable work well, I thought he was talking about doing his B-pillar by hand ... my mistake.
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 06:31 AM
  #47  
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Yeah I was doing mine by hand, and would do it by hand if I attack it again.

Enzo, would product did you use to get that nastiness off that black?
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 07:41 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by enzo thecat
Just to be clear. Polish application was on McGuiers microfiber buffing pads on a Porter Cable Random Orbital. Then removal with MF towels and Zaino on and off with MF towels.


e
Good job! Never used Zaino before, but heard good things about it.

Originally Posted by thekurgan
Oh, sorry man, I was thinking the OP didn't have any type of machine. I have seen the MF on the porter cable work well, I thought he was talking about doing his B-pillar by hand ... my mistake.
I think that's where the mix-up came in, I was talking about machine polishing and using the MF to remove the polish/wax. Sorry!
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 12:14 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by K-A
Yeah I was doing mine by hand, and would do it by hand if I attack it again.

Enzo, would product did you use to get that nastiness off that black?
I stared with my Griots Machine Polish 1-4. The ended up switching over to Zaino fusion and then the ZIAO (Zaino All in One). I was doing some experimenting so I was back and forth a little.
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Old Jan 9, 2012 | 05:14 PM
  #50  
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So I think I'm gonna dive in and go the "Use this as an excuse to mod" situation, and get the pillars wrapped in Gloss Di-Noc CF Wrap, and have to take in the ridicule from fellow Board Members. Still on the fence, but starting to think "f it".

To be honest, I had this mod in mind when I first got my 2011, searching for cheaper ways (stickers.... though tastefully is the plan) to make it further stand out. I always liked the CF pillars on the W210 E55's and W202 Sport C-Classes, so technically it's been on a Merc before. Finally, it'll just cost a $100 or so, so why not experiment.
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