Who's considering buying out after Lease's up? Any tricks of the trade(get cheaper)?
I'm happy about the nice monthly, and current situation where my money isn't tied up into a car, but come 3/2014, I'll have a decision to make. I do know that I don't want to Lease again (don't like the idea of spending $20+K during each Lease interval and having nothing to show for it, it's a personal thing and of course we all vary when it comes to Lease VS buy).
Saying that my car stays pristine, low mileage, and I decide that I want to buy it, but not at that ridiculous price, and saying MBUSA doesn't negotiate. I've heard people say that you can return a car to a Dealer, have them take it, put a price on it, and you immediately buy it as a CPO for a more fair market value? Anybody done this? Is it a fool-proof plan or any catches to be aware of?
Already started pricing out alternatives, and even at $38K buyout, it's relatively super cheap compared to anything else I'd consider (which would be well over $70K). I won't be considering another E-Class simply because I've already had 2 W212's, and even though it'll be a facelift model by that time, if I don't buy this one out, I'll force myself to try something else out.
I'm happy about the nice monthly, and current situation where my money isn't tied up into a car, but come 3/2014, I'll have a decision to make. I do know that I don't want to Lease again (don't like the idea of spending $20+K during each Lease interval and having nothing to show for it, it's a personal thing and of course we all vary when it comes to Lease VS buy).
Saying that my car stays pristine, low mileage, and I decide that I want to buy it, but not at that ridiculous price, and saying MBUSA doesn't negotiate. I've heard people say that you can return a car to a Dealer, have them take it, put a price on it, and you immediately buy it as a CPO for a more fair market value? Anybody done this? Is it a fool-proof plan or any catches to be aware of?
Already started pricing out alternatives, and even at $38K buyout, it's relatively super cheap compared to anything else I'd consider (which would be well over $70K). I won't be considering another E-Class simply because I've already had 2 W212's, and even though it'll be a facelift model by that time, if I don't buy this one out, I'll force myself to try something else out.
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Really, I'd love the new 911 as it's the only thing that's really tugging at the heart strings that's come out lately. However, they come with a few premiums!
Obviously if you finance a car for say 60 months and then keep it for a few more years, then financing is the way to go. But if you finance for 60 months to only turn around and trade that car in for something else that you finance for 60 months, I don't know if you really come out ahead. Worse yet, if you finance for 60 months but then want something new after 24-48 months, you'll likely be upside down when getting into a new car.
Really depends on the individual and what they want.
For your buyout price, I would DEFINITELY jump on it.
If you think about it, by buying it out, you get MB Financial "back" in terms of reaping the value aspect out of your car.... if you give it back to them, they got a new-body-style higher Lease rate (before major incentives got thrown at 2011+ models), and they get it back for VERY cheap.
Get it! My residual, for comparisons sake, is friggin' $38K after 33 months! F'ing ripoff! It's due to such an artificially low Lease payment, of course.
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With cars, whether you buy them outright, finance them or lease them, the only thing that you can and should compare is the total real monthly charge over the life of ownership. That way, you can take into account down payments, residual costs, payments at the end to turn a car in, origination fees and so on. Assuming you like two cars equally, that's the way to compare them.....not MF's not residuals...and please, not monthly payments.
As for the residual, I understand how it works, and true, it is what gives me the great Lease payment. It's really an annoyance I have toward myself and the situation I'll be in as if I let the car go after the Lease, I "win" in terms of getting the better end of the deal. If I buy it out, I essentially undo the great terms of the Lease that I got and they get the better end of the stick.
Of course this is hypothetically saying that I'll want to buy the car out, however I'm trying to plan that scenario out to be "armed" in the case that I do want to continue with the car.
As for the residual, I understand how it works, and true, it is what gives me the great Lease payment. It's really an annoyance I have toward myself and the situation I'll be in as if I let the car go after the Lease, I "win" in terms of getting the better end of the deal. If I buy it out, I essentially undo the great terms of the Lease that I got and they get the better end of the stick.
Of course this is hypothetically saying that I'll want to buy the car out, however I'm trying to plan that scenario out to be "armed" in the case that I do want to continue with the car.
I'm not happy about the ditching of the quad lights and lower part of the Ponton fender as purported so far, so not sure how much I'll like it, but I guess we'll have to wait and see....

If you lease with a high residual and then buy the car, the total cost of the car is probably within dollars of leasing at a lower residual and buying the car.
The leasing company only "wins" if they can sell the car for more than the residual value at the end of the lease. If they can't sell the car for that much, they will take a loss on their books.
2002 First was a cash purchase of a demo E430 -$10k off sticker, sold 3 years later for $28k with a roughly $20k depreciation or about $670 a month. Most expensive monthly out go.
2007 Second one was a one pay check up front for 33 mos for a E350 w/leather and P1 only $16k across 33 months. $8k off and almost negative interest, not negative, but like .0007. Less than $500 a month.
2009 Third was the same car as #2 minus leather, first and tags drive off and $540 a mo for 36. Residual was ridiculously low, like 48% across 36, but MF was also less than .00100 so payment worked. Discount was 10%, plus E trunk money and loyalty $. Bonus at the end was used values went up and car was worth $27.5 vs the $25 or so residual. Rolled the gravy into the next one.
2011 got a fully loaded P2 and leather car w/about 1.5k cap red from the previous car, $9k discount off $62k and a very high residual of $44k for 24. But my payment is, get this, $490 plus tax.
You cannot beat the monthly outgo for the car you get when you lease the E class. I would not buy one outright again unless I was going to hold the car for over 8 years.
Don't stress over the residual. You can see that it really doesn't matter in the long run if you're leasing. Do not lease and then buy unless you're ahead like my 2009.
Another component that really helps the equation is great discounts and getting one off the lot. Buying 5 or 6 cars from the same dealer also helps.
Last edited by A C; Jul 31, 2012 at 10:12 PM.
It just seems increasingly likely to me that when my Lease is up and my $38K residual is all the more real (and huge), a buyout won't be a realistic option to consider. Only reason I'm considering flattering the notion of a buyout is that if I'm still fully happy with my car and don't see anything else pulling my strings enough to pay up for it, or don't feel the desire to try something else just for the sake of it, then it would make sense to just buy what I got, as I think the car will look and function great for as long as it wants to.
It just seems increasingly likely to me that when my Lease is up and my $38K residual is all the more real (and huge), a buyout won't be a realistic option to consider. Only reason I'm considering flattering the notion of a buyout is that if I'm still fully happy with my car and don't see anything else pulling my strings enough to pay up for it, or don't feel the desire to try something else just for the sake of it, then it would make sense to just buy what I got, as I think the car will look and function great for as long as it wants to.
Obviously if you finance a car for say 60 months and then keep it for a few more years, then financing is the way to go. But if you finance for 60 months to only turn around and trade that car in for something else that you finance for 60 months, I don't know if you really come out ahead. Worse yet, if you finance for 60 months but then want something new after 24-48 months, you'll likely be upside down when getting into a new car.
Really depends on the individual and what they want.
Exactly.
What happens if you finance the car and 6 months after buying it, you have a massive accident, but the car is not written off? Now you are the owner of a car that is worth a whole lot less than one that hasn't been smashed. With a lease, u are not penalized when you return it to MB, as long as the car has been repaired.
MB lease also have GAP protection built in, so if the car is written off & the actual value is less than the lien, the GAP is covered.
You also only pay taxes on your monthly payments with a lease, so by the end of your term, you haven't paid tax on whatever your residual is.
If you only keep your cars 2-4 years, leasing is the way to go. If you're a 5+ year type owner, finance it.
What happens if you finance the car and 6 months after buying it, you have a massive accident, but the car is not written off? Now you are the owner of a car that is worth a whole lot less than one that hasn't been smashed. With a lease, u are not penalized when you return it to MB, as long as the car has been repaired.
MB lease also have GAP protection built in, so if the car is written off & the actual value is less than the lien, the GAP is covered.
This does not apply to one pay leases which are handled differently financially. A one pay lease is set up like a bank account and your monthly payments are deducted from it. If your car is totaled in month 6 of a 12 month lease, then you are assumed to have only paid 1/2 of the money and you will get the other 1/2 back....and any gap will be covered by insurance.







