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- Mercedes-Benz E-Class: How to Replace Cabin Air Filter
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
DIY: Mercedes e550 cabin filter
#26
Just did mine, installed the Mann filter. I ended up using the slider from the original filter. Those little clips are a ***** but putting it all back together is a breeze. Easy DIY but a PITA.
#27
MBWorld Fanatic!
I had a whistle in that area and now after changing the filter it is gone. I used the Mann Filter and it had a much better sealing foam around the filter than the MB one. Mine must have been leaking air and whistling, which is very annoying. I would recommend the Mann filter over the OEM. All is nice and quiet again.
#28
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2013 ML 550, CLK63 AMG, 2012 E350 4MATIC
[QUOTE=El Cid;5486995]
Benz oil changes are actually quite simple since they mount the filters on top of the engine. My ML didn't have a drain plug, wouldn't surprise me that the E doesn't have one, MB techs pump the oil out. The mighty vac is a great tool to have.
There's no reason to swap out 7 quarts of synthetic every 5kmi. it's not "cheap insurance", it's just recreation. You're not getting 7 quarts of synthetic changed for $25-$40.
Man,
You need to understand that most MB drivers DO NOT service their cars. The dealer makes more money for a job that they do as it takes more time than just 10 minutes. I bet a MB technician can do this close to 10 minutes but I bet they charge 1 hour for the job.
I do understand that most owners do not service their cars.
My point is that American and Asian manufacturers make it very easy and intend for owners to replace the cabin filter, if so inclined. that's why the instructions are in the owner's manual under owner DIY section. Simple or NO tools required. Ironically, changing air filter and oil are not in DIY sections.
BTW, dealerships make more profit off service than they do off selling new or used cars. However, I still use only dealerships for vehicles I purchase-bad experiences with independents in past.
I do a lot of DIY household projects and used to do maintenance on my cars, so I have lots of tools. Not sure what a Torx wrench set is though. Cars got too complicated now. Also, can get oil & filter changes from most American and Asian dealerships for $25-40.
You need to understand that most MB drivers DO NOT service their cars. The dealer makes more money for a job that they do as it takes more time than just 10 minutes. I bet a MB technician can do this close to 10 minutes but I bet they charge 1 hour for the job.
I do understand that most owners do not service their cars.
My point is that American and Asian manufacturers make it very easy and intend for owners to replace the cabin filter, if so inclined. that's why the instructions are in the owner's manual under owner DIY section. Simple or NO tools required. Ironically, changing air filter and oil are not in DIY sections.
BTW, dealerships make more profit off service than they do off selling new or used cars. However, I still use only dealerships for vehicles I purchase-bad experiences with independents in past.
I do a lot of DIY household projects and used to do maintenance on my cars, so I have lots of tools. Not sure what a Torx wrench set is though. Cars got too complicated now. Also, can get oil & filter changes from most American and Asian dealerships for $25-40.
There's no reason to swap out 7 quarts of synthetic every 5kmi. it's not "cheap insurance", it's just recreation. You're not getting 7 quarts of synthetic changed for $25-$40.
Last edited by schorert1; 02-01-2014 at 02:48 PM.
#29
Senior Member
I just changed my cabin filter today, myself. I followed these instructions - which helped a lot.
I do think in principal the 'job' is easy to complete, but given the location of the filter in the footwell, it's pretty hard to get at and makes the job harder just by nature of the difficult access.
Anyhow, thanks again for the DIY - very useful.
Rich
I do think in principal the 'job' is easy to complete, but given the location of the filter in the footwell, it's pretty hard to get at and makes the job harder just by nature of the difficult access.
Anyhow, thanks again for the DIY - very useful.
Rich
#30
#31
mb OEM filter must have changed
I had a whistle in that area and now after changing the filter it is gone. I used the Mann Filter and it had a much better sealing foam around the filter than the MB one. Mine must have been leaking air and whistling, which is very annoying. I would recommend the Mann filter over the OEM. All is nice and quiet again.
#32
sour odour solution
Thanks for a great write-up! A small detail: when removing the black plastic underdash panel, after removing the three retaining screws, reach a finger into the square hole near the center rear, and push the plastic hook to one side to release it and allow the panel to drop down for removal.
The panel can alternately be removed with a sharp tug, but in my case, this method made a couple of small cracks in the panel near this hook.
My 2012 E350 had developed a sour odor emanating from the AC upon startup. I noted this odor on the old filter, too. A thorough application of Lysol disinfectant "White Linen" into the fresh air intake just forward of the windshield while the AC was running on max and filter replacement has eliminated the noxious odor.
The panel can alternately be removed with a sharp tug, but in my case, this method made a couple of small cracks in the panel near this hook.
My 2012 E350 had developed a sour odor emanating from the AC upon startup. I noted this odor on the old filter, too. A thorough application of Lysol disinfectant "White Linen" into the fresh air intake just forward of the windshield while the AC was running on max and filter replacement has eliminated the noxious odor.
#33
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Join Date: Jul 2003
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'71 Pinto
Confirm dry blow feature is activated/functioning via SDS see here https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post5015730
Confirm evaporator drains are clear see here https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post6053539
See attachment regarding evaporator cleaning for 212 up to VIN A407859
Confirm evaporator drains are clear see here https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post6053539
See attachment regarding evaporator cleaning for 212 up to VIN A407859
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pierrejoliat (11-02-2020)
#34
For me, the new filter fixed it for a year or year and a half. Basically it made things OK for one full summer and then it needed to be replaced again. This time I got the one with the little fin blade on the top instead of filter material all the way to the top. We'll see how long this one lasts. I just replaced it last week at the end of the summer after I noticed it smelling again.
#35
clips getting lost
just did this install
freaking sucks.....not hard, but a pain in the @$$
the two little metal clips around the filter....history.....fell of somewhere.....
dunno how they get them off with out dropping them, especially that one in the back....
anyways i dont have mine them anymore...otherwise...everything else was ok
freaking sucks.....not hard, but a pain in the @$$
the two little metal clips around the filter....history.....fell of somewhere.....
dunno how they get them off with out dropping them, especially that one in the back....
anyways i dont have mine them anymore...otherwise...everything else was ok
#36
Confirm dry blow feature is activated/functioning via SDS see here https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post5015730
Confirm evaporator drains are clear see here https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post6053539
See attachment regarding evaporator cleaning for 212 up to VIN A407859
Confirm evaporator drains are clear see here https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post6053539
See attachment regarding evaporator cleaning for 212 up to VIN A407859
#38
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'71 Pinto
Remove cover below passenger side dash.
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pierrejoliat (11-02-2020)
#42
Confirm dry blow feature is activated/functioning via SDS see here https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post5015730
Confirm evaporator drains are clear see here https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post6053539
See attachment regarding evaporator cleaning for 212 up to VIN A407859
Confirm evaporator drains are clear see here https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ml#post6053539
See attachment regarding evaporator cleaning for 212 up to VIN A407859
Can someone post a picture of where the evaporator is?
#43
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'71 Pinto
Follow 2nd link in quote.
Last edited by konigstiger; 11-14-2015 at 04:59 PM.
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pierrejoliat (11-02-2020)
#44
E550 2012 coupe cabin filter change pictures
H
So posted pictures of the process..
Pull back carpet
3 screws T20
One hole with plastic hook finger in to release or just pull, mine was broke.
Pull down
2 outlets to unplug
Unplug foot light
Ac sensor twist whole thing quarter turn, counter clockwise, and will pull out
Pull out cover it's now loose
Remove metal clips 2 one each end, mine was missing one and you will lose one if not careful.
Slide white plastic and filter will pull straight down and out.
Hope it helps...
Next time it will take me like 5 minutes
#46
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thanks Ken Clark for your post. Changed the cabin air filter today. Went just like your explanation other than I had to turn the air temp sensor CW looking from the sensor side to remove it.
I had no metal clips at either end of the filter frame and don't even understand why there would be any. The frame is quite stiff and the white plastic locking part should hold the parts together just fine. At least on mine it seemed to be in place just fine without the clips.
I spent most time to get the 3 screws back in place. The screw ends had to be worn out as the screws, all of them, did not want to sit straight on the tip of the there brand new T-20 keys I have. The opening for the screws is so big in plastic but the actual hole where the screws need to go thru is small compared to the indentation the screws with big heads go thru. Some thick grease on the tip of the T-20 key helped a lot.
I had no metal clips at either end of the filter frame and don't even understand why there would be any. The frame is quite stiff and the white plastic locking part should hold the parts together just fine. At least on mine it seemed to be in place just fine without the clips.
I spent most time to get the 3 screws back in place. The screw ends had to be worn out as the screws, all of them, did not want to sit straight on the tip of the there brand new T-20 keys I have. The opening for the screws is so big in plastic but the actual hole where the screws need to go thru is small compared to the indentation the screws with big heads go thru. Some thick grease on the tip of the T-20 key helped a lot.
Last edited by Arrie; 07-06-2019 at 11:18 PM.
#47
Junior Member
Cab Filters.
I know about the 2 filters under the glove box, but isn't there another one that you have to raise the hood to access?.... Excluding the two engine filters..... I thought there were 3 altogether.
Thanks for any replies
Fred
2010 MB E550. base
Thanks for any replies
Fred
2010 MB E550. base
#48
MBWorld Fanatic!
And yes, the air compressor for the Airmatic probably has one too in the back of the car...
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hafferf (10-07-2020)
#49
Junior Member
Thank you Arrie for your response. Odd that they would talk about 2 under the glove box and 1 under the hood for outside air coming in. I wish I would have kept the URL for that information.
Thank you again for taking the time for your block of instruction.
Be Well
Fred
Thank you again for taking the time for your block of instruction.
Be Well
Fred
#50
Member
Surround the metal clip with a microfiber towel with one hand. Pick or micro screwdriver in the other hand to unseat it. This clip will pop off and fly so you need to make sure you contain it.