swirls..............
The amount of carefulness you have to be with a black car, namely when you let OTHER PEOPLE handle it, can drive one crazy. I gave my car to a Valet guy the other night, completely paranoid about doing so from the get-go, yet telling myself that I'm just being overly **** and paranoid. Turns out my initial apprehension was right, as when I looked at my car afterwards, the fingerprints they put all over the doors resulted in light marring. Also, I think they placed my keys on the trunk or something, because there were some areas where I could see the dust on the car was swiped, and similar marring. Also some marring on my B Pillar frames again where I could see they used their greasy hands to close the door.
I used Scratch X 2.0 very lightly to get those little bits out pretty successfully.
For you, with a whole car of swirls and not being experienced in doing the work yourself. Find a good Paint Correction SPECIALIST, someone who is vouched for on Message Boards, and pay them $300-$400 to correct your paint. DO NOT go back to another "cheap detailer" as they will further damage your paint and remove even more clearcoat.
I made the mistake of taking my car to a Car Wash after I got it, they swirled up the paint. THEN they offered to "fix it", which resulted in MASSIVE holograms. Finally, I took it to a true specialist who did a great job. I can PM you his info.
After you get it corrected, just be careful with it. I figure if you're careful enough, one correction a year or 8 months apart from each other with a black car should keep it looking great even in sunlight (where every black car will show swirls unfortunately).

I've already started learning that swirls in sunlight will be inevitable. Like you, my goal is to just make sure I do my best to maintain from it, and of course accept the reality. The most important thing with black is to be happy as long as it looks stunning in low light, shade and night, which is easy (since you can't see swirls in black under dimmer lighting).
Yeah, a good detail once to twice a year makes things much easier with black. It allows you to sleep better about inevitable swirls that will occur.
Still learning the tricks of the trade with this color. Loving it though, the merits are worth it.... so far, lol.
Since you are in CA , I have a very excellent source for you , www.innovativedetailing.com , contact Dave he is a great guy
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Try the link below and scroll down the regional forum section. I’m sure you will be able to find someone that will be able to help you out.
http://www.autopia.org/forum/forum.php
If you are DIY and a newbie, take the time to learn. The more powerful the tool, the more damage you can inflict, but poor technique/methods is bad too. All of these products require initial $, and it is going to take time as well. Polisher, pads, polishing compounds, lighting, etc...
If you are not a DIY, then a professional is best. Someone who can at least show you examples of their work and offer to do a test area on your car, would be plus?
Lastly, if you recently got your bumper painted and usually, the paint shop will blend in to the body, I would avoid polishing any fresh painted area for 30 days.
The amount of carefulness you have to be with a black car, namely when you let OTHER PEOPLE handle it, can drive one crazy. I gave my car to a Valet guy the other night, completely paranoid about doing so from the get-go, yet telling myself that I'm just being overly **** and paranoid. Turns out my initial apprehension was right, as when I looked at my car afterwards, the fingerprints they put all over the doors resulted in light marring. Also, I think they placed my keys on the trunk or something, because there were some areas where I could see the dust on the car was swiped, and similar marring. Also some marring on my B Pillar frames again where I could see they used their greasy hands to close the door.
I used Scratch X 2.0 very lightly to get those little bits out pretty successfully.
For you, with a whole car of swirls and not being experienced in doing the work yourself. Find a good Paint Correction SPECIALIST, someone who is vouched for on Message Boards, and pay them $300-$400 to correct your paint. DO NOT go back to another "cheap detailer" as they will further damage your paint and remove even more clearcoat.
I made the mistake of taking my car to a Car Wash after I got it, they swirled up the paint. THEN they offered to "fix it", which resulted in MASSIVE holograms. Finally, I took it to a true specialist who did a great job. I can PM you his info.
After you get it corrected, just be careful with it. I figure if you're careful enough, one correction a year or 8 months apart from each other with a black car should keep it looking great even in sunlight (where every black car will show swirls unfortunately).
If you are DIY and a newbie, take the time to learn. The more powerful the tool, the more damage you can inflict, but poor technique/methods is bad too. All of these products require initial $, and it is going to take time as well. Polisher, pads, polishing compounds, lighting, etc...
If you are not a DIY, then a professional is best. Someone who can at least show you examples of their work and offer to do a test area on your car, would be plus?
Lastly, if you recently got your bumper painted and usually, the paint shop will blend in to the body, I would avoid polishing any fresh painted area for 30 days.
Since you are in CA , I have a very excellent source for you , www.innovativedetailing.com , contact Dave he is a great guy
- Poter cable 7424XP Variable Speed Polisher
- Menzerna Super Finish Nano SF4000 (specially designed for ceramic clear coats on newer MBZ)
- Lake Country CCS Grey Finishing Foam Pad (Composition is firm enough to withstand added pressure during final finishing to remove buffer swirls. It has no cut and will apply thin, even coats of waxes, sealants, and glazes)
Good luck



- Poter cable 7424XP Variable Speed Polisher
- Menzerna Super Finish Nano SF4000 (specially designed for ceramic clear coats on newer MBZ)
- Lake Country CCS Grey Finishing Foam Pad (Composition is firm enough to withstand added pressure during final finishing to remove buffer swirls. It has no cut and will apply thin, even coats of waxes, sealants, and glazes)
Good luck
- FLEX XC3401 polisher
- Menzerna FG400 with Lake Country Hydrotech Cyan pad (twice).
- Menzerna SF4000 with LC Hydrotech tangerine pad (twice).
- use IPA mix or Menzerna Top Inspection as polish remover.
- Apply Blackfire Wet Diamond sealant with yellow applicator pad and buff with microfiber bonnet.
- Cure above 55 degrees in garage for 12 hours.
- Apply second coat of sealant.
- For extra bling, try SF4500 with a crimson pad before Black Fire.
Improper washing & drying techniques can be scratch & swirl contributors in the absence of a sealant.
Anybody else with their recipe for black MB cars??
What I'm doing is I got some super plush MF towels which I'll use to dry my car, a MF Wash Mitt, and use ONR Wash/Wax which hopefully with the wax content will help to constantly "mask" any potential swirls. I've come to realize that black is so sensitive that even BUFFING off wax with even a super plush MF towel can streak the paint. I was using a wax that was so damn hard to buff (perhaps my MF was too plush for buffing in retrospect) that I noticed it in itself left some light "swirls" on the paint. Just gotta live with those dynamics of black.



I've used both a Toro super leaf blower and a Metrovac, and while the Toro is faster, do prefer the Metrovac because I felt I had better control of the nozzle. The Metrovac serves as vacuum too, which is it's real primary purpose.
One tip if you are using Metrovac as a blower is make sure you have the hose and attachments on tight, as something loose could mean damage to your car!
ImInPA is right in that blowing helps cleans out the crevices. My experience is that W212 tends to have water build/drain at the mirrors/front doors, fuel door, chrome trim accents for those who have it, wheels/tires/lug nuts and headlight assemblies.
Last edited by mbuster25; Mar 15, 2013 at 08:32 PM.
ONR is also great product, but if given a choice, a traditional wash is far more thorough, should be safer, and is quicker than ONR wash.
The time to fill would be with the application of a glaze, which is before applying a sealant or wax.
ONR is also great product, but if given a choice, a traditional wash is far more thorough, should be safer, and is quicker than ONR wash.
The time to fill would be with the application of a glaze, which is before applying a sealant or wax.
Unfortunately I don't have access to a hose where I live. I've been trying to find the best way to to a waterless or rinseless wash and it seems that ONR is the highest regarded. I used a waterless before this but buffing out the Kaolin Clay was such a pain I think the buffing aspect did more marring than anything else. I'm hoping buffing/drying ONR is easier.
What I love about ONR W/W is that the wax content in it will keep my car thoroughly protected at all times, especially since I already have a coat of Menzerna's Polymer Sealant on the car.
Another tip for those especially with black cars. Get in the habit of washing each panel in one direction only. If streaking at least only occurs in a straight lines then you won't be able to see the swirls at every angle of light.
I guess I'll see how this ONR rinse less stuff works out. Got the dual bucket method in effect, grit guard, plush MFs and mitt, etc.



