pfarmer58

So, I recently replaced the front rotors and pads on my 2011 E350 sedan. Very easy job. However I must have missed a step somewhere along the way. Since the repair, the front brakes seem to be dragging, and making a bit of noise along the way. The noise stops as soon as I put any pressure on the brake pedal. I put the car on a lift, took the wheels off and put the car in drive, and no noise. As soon as I put the wheels back on, lots of noise, until I depress the brake a bit. The wheels seem to be acting like speakers and amplifying the noise. You can feel a slight vibration in the steering wheel when the noise is present. It does not feel like the rotors are warped. I put anti vibration stuff on the pads, and cant see any place where there is anything rubbing.
Did I miss resetting something?
Thank you for any ideas.

ss3964spd

Odd. What rotors and pads did you install?

I recently replaced the front rotors and pads on my '11 E550, using MB rotors and pads. No noise whatsoever, no vibration. The MB pads come with some kind of anti vibration goo on the back right out of the box.

Go back through the process and double check that the rotors are sitting flush against the hubs, that the caliper attaching bolts are tight, and that you didn't inadvertently install one or more of the pads backwards.

pfarmer58

Thank you for the reply. I pulled them apart and found that the inner pads are marked right and left and that in had them reversed. Non OEM pads are not directional for this vehicle.
Thanks again.

ss3964spd

Glad you got it sorted.

equetefue

how easy is it to do it? I've always done my brake jobs in all the cars I have ever owned, but was hesitant on doing it on this car when time comes around as I hear there is some sort of sensor or wire to let you know they are worn. Didn't want to mess with that

ss3964spd

Insanely, actually. More so if you have the few tools required.

The pad wear sensor simply pulls out of a hole in the top of the pad. You may be able to wiggle it out with your fingers, otherwise a needle nose pliers will extract it without damage. You can opt to unplug the connector first before removal. If the sensor has already triggered the brake light you'll have to replace the sensor. Old sensor or new - both just slide right back into the hole in the top of the new pad. Be sure you seat it all the way in.

One could do the entire job in an hour, not more than two. I recently posted how I did mine, which took me considerably longer, but I probably went over board, in an **** retentive sort of way.

Dan

aeroconfigs

Where do you jack at for the rear end and where do you put the stands to support it (front and rear) once it's up? I've been thinking about doing my rear pads soon before it gets too cold out. I might be able to get a lift but probably will use a jack or have someone else do it. But it seems easy enough that it wouldn't take a ton of time.

ss3964spd

You can jack it under the side jack points. Once the wheel is removed slide it under the side of the car just in front of the jack to catch it in the unlikely event of a jack failure. You can also jack it under the lower control arm - as I did mine (the decorative control arm cover will deflect a little but will not be damaged), then either arrange a jack stand under the side jack point or use the wheel. Or if you have a spare wheel and tire, as I do, use that.

If the car has airmatic use caution. There doesn't appear to be a way to jack the front under the front control arms which would be my preference so as to not unload the suspension, so when I did the fronts I raised the car via the button, then used the front center jack point. When I finished I lowered the jack but, because the front suspension was completely unloaded, I suspect the system bled air out of the bags and the car sank to a lower point than when I started - resulting in the front air dam contacting the jack. Luckily I saw it, stopped, started it and let the suspension get it's act together.

Dan