Brake Pad and Rotor Options
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 102
Likes: 1
From: Toronto, ON
2010 E550 4Matic, P1, P2
Brake Pad and Rotor Options
Hi,
I have a 2010 E550 with about 85KM on it. Recently at about 40km I have a vibration in the pedal that then goes away at about 30km. I'm guessing I need new brakes after reading lots on here that the rotors can go pretty quickly.
My question is do most people go with the OEM pads and rotors or do you guys switch to something aftermarket that's going to last longer and preform better. Not looking to save any cash here, just want to get the best set up as I plan to keep the car for another 2 or 3 years.
I have a 2010 E550 with about 85KM on it. Recently at about 40km I have a vibration in the pedal that then goes away at about 30km. I'm guessing I need new brakes after reading lots on here that the rotors can go pretty quickly.
My question is do most people go with the OEM pads and rotors or do you guys switch to something aftermarket that's going to last longer and preform better. Not looking to save any cash here, just want to get the best set up as I plan to keep the car for another 2 or 3 years.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 357
Likes: 2
From: Toronto, Canada
2013 E350 BlueTec, 2011 VW Jetta TDI
I'm in the same bot as you.
My 2013 E350BT has around 75,000 KM and on the last service the dealer told me my brakes and rotors will need changing soon.
I was quoted $1,292.00 + 13% HST for the job!
I'll be looking at getting an Indi shop to do the job with OEM parts.
I was quoted $200.00 for the labor plus parts costs of OEM brakes + rotors.
My 2013 E350BT has around 75,000 KM and on the last service the dealer told me my brakes and rotors will need changing soon.
I was quoted $1,292.00 + 13% HST for the job!
I'll be looking at getting an Indi shop to do the job with OEM parts.
I was quoted $200.00 for the labor plus parts costs of OEM brakes + rotors.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 102
Likes: 1
From: Toronto, ON
2010 E550 4Matic, P1, P2
Which dealership quoted you 1200 + tax? I was told 800+ tax for fronts and 700+tax for the rears.
I'm going to look around for the OEM parts and then get another shop to do the work
I'm going to look around for the OEM parts and then get another shop to do the work
Member
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 141
Likes: 32
From: Portland, Maine
2020 S560 sedan, 2018 Volvo v90 Cross Country
Brakes
Just had the fronts done on mine by an Indy, genuine rotors pads and sensors 713.00 total labor and parts . Second set of replacements at 55,000 miles on a 2013
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,141
Likes: 1,293
From: Southern US
2010 E550, 273 Engine: 2012 S550, 278 Engine
Especially if an indi shop does the work why go with the OEM parts that seem to have the problem. If MB shop does the job the only option is OEM parts.
After market parts seem to be a better choice especially for the pads that there are many to choose from made ceramic, which the OEM does not have. Ceramic will eliminate the brake dust issue.
You need to read a bit more in this forum about the brake issue.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 357
Likes: 2
From: Toronto, Canada
2013 E350 BlueTec, 2011 VW Jetta TDI
I always get a loaner car even though I have not bought any vehicle from them.
Most likely I'll get the next one from them since the service department has been good to me so far.
It's just that the sales department didn't work hard enough for my business!
Cheers
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 347
2011 E-350 4Matic Sport
My planned replacements for the front are OEM rotors and Akebono Euro Ceramic pads, plus new sensors. I do my own work whenever possible, total cost for the parts is about $300.
Mine is a sport, therefore has the drilled front rotors. IMO they are useless at the moderate commute speeds I typically drive, and I'm considering simply installing solid rotors to allow possibility of turning them at a later brake job if needed, but even if I replace the drilled for the same it's not that big of a deal.
Drilled rotors can chip at the holes therefore usually they are replaced rather than turned. Also, if you replace drilled rotors get rotors that are cast with the holes rather than getting solid rotors that have been drilled as the surface treatment does not extend to the newly drilled holes which can also get chipping at the edges. I think that the cast in place holes have a very slight chamfer at the edges as well.
Ceramic pads can have less of an initial "bite" when braking but for me I've not found that to be an issue. My personal preference for all of my vehicles has been using the appropriate Akebono pads, pleased with them over many miles and several vehicles.
Mine is a sport, therefore has the drilled front rotors. IMO they are useless at the moderate commute speeds I typically drive, and I'm considering simply installing solid rotors to allow possibility of turning them at a later brake job if needed, but even if I replace the drilled for the same it's not that big of a deal.
Drilled rotors can chip at the holes therefore usually they are replaced rather than turned. Also, if you replace drilled rotors get rotors that are cast with the holes rather than getting solid rotors that have been drilled as the surface treatment does not extend to the newly drilled holes which can also get chipping at the edges. I think that the cast in place holes have a very slight chamfer at the edges as well.
Ceramic pads can have less of an initial "bite" when braking but for me I've not found that to be an issue. My personal preference for all of my vehicles has been using the appropriate Akebono pads, pleased with them over many miles and several vehicles.
