Diesel value last year plunged due to:
1 high diesel fuel prices
2 all the troubles DPF and DEF brought.
But now ScanGauge makes gauge for DPF monitoring, tuners pop up with DPF delete on accelerating rates and look what is happening to fuel pricing.
Been driving diesels for 30 years, even when they have been hogs and don't think you can go wrong with them, even if you have to deal with oil cooler seals
Guess what? The W123 TDT I sold 20 years go for $3000, now would be worth $6000

 

Planning to keep it around 10 years, unless I face any big problem. Never think to jump from one to another car

 

I think you are trying to point out lower operating cost? I agree with that. I just hope the market isn't too brutal when I go sell it in about 3 years. I'll probably have about 115K on the odo by that time.

As for the dpf delete, there really isn't much we can do here in CA unless I blatantly disobey state smog laws. I want to drive legal cars.

 

Just acquired a 2013 E350 Blutec with 75k miles. Planning to drive it to at least 200k, unless there's a catastrophic failure. Maintenance records are one of the best I've seen, and I'm pretty **** about upkeep...hoping for a good long ride... no warranty.

 

Due to the chip shortage and super price gouging by all car dealers and manufacturers, will have to keep mine at least a couple of years more. That said, I still like my 2010 and think it is one of best looking M-B or anybody else ever did. Fortunately I had a lot of things corrected while it was still under warranty.
Only have 42,000 miles on it, but has a couple of problems that are annoying, but not worth fixing. The light sensor or the light switch is erratic. Park in a dark garage and sometimes when I drive off, auto lights never turn off. Mine has an actual off switch and I can use it, then wait a while and auto usually (but not always) functions normally. If I leave it in off, the right side parking lights come on in the middle of the night. Dealer looked at while under warranty, but decided no problem and MBUSA refused to do anything about it.
Another problem is the easy entry/exit. It failed under warranty and MBUSA repaired it. It has now failed again, but not worth fixing. Took them three days the last time.
Not sure if it is a problem or me, but over last couple of years noticed that it blows a lot of cold air out of upper vents, even when Auto temp is set on 72 and outside temp is in 50's. Seems to happen more in Spring and Fall seasons.
All work has been done by M-B dealership and in line with maintenance guidelines.
When I purchased my car, M-B rated it above average in reliability and the most reliable of all M-B's. Just got the Jan, 2022 CR magazine and CR no longer recommends the E Class because of declining reliability. A lot of people are going to disagree with CR, but it surveys more actual owners over a longer period of time than any other organization.
Might add that I was thinking about getting a Buick Envision. At age where I need something easier to get into and M-B SUV's rate pretty low and have high costs to own. Also, want something where the dealership is 20 minutes away instead of 50.
Good luck with your new car.

 

Have you gotten a scanner lately? That sounds like either a bad temperature sensor or a blend valve door.

 

I believe S-Prihadi has threads on this or similar issue... basically involves adjusting the temp high and low quickly in succession (multiple times) to get the motor "freed".

 

Mine is approaching 8 years old (2014), and while at times it frustrates me over stupid little things that shouldn't be on a car like this, it only has 61k miles on it and I do love having it. Long since paid for, and if it takes a couple thousand a year to keep it running like new, then so be it. Would rather maintain a paid off car like this, than pay even more for a new one, which I'm still not in love with design wise. I love how the 212 is the last of the old-school ways. You can just feel it. It's meant for highway cruising, and tolerates city life (but doesn't love it).

 

Being long time MB owner, it is funny to read how
W124 owners used to say it, then
W210 owners used to say it, then
W211 owners used to say it.
Evidently we all have different opinions what old school is.
Lot of owners don't even know that W123 had few electronic modules as well, like CC, tachometer. But those would not leave you stranded, or in limp mode.

 

Ha! Very true! And I suspect when a 214 comes out the 213 crowd will say the same thing!

but you do have to admit a change occurred between the 212 and 213, especially in the interior materials and feel. The 212 to me anyways, feels like MB was making a statement that Chrysler is gone, and therefore pulled out the stops on designing a beautiful interior that is reflective of that statement. The 213, especially with the bland seat covering, feels like the accounting folks stepped back in a bit more. Feels like one large piece molded from a single press and then inserted into the car with a digital panel screwed into it, instead of several individual pieces each made uniquely and then assembled bit by bit. Both have pros and cons. But when I’ve got a 10 hour drive in front of me, I love being in my 212 more than any car I’ve ever owned before. I recently drove it from DC to IN and back for a family event, and thoroughly enjoyed it, especially through the hills of PA!

 

Had this 124.036 for many years, but now after five years ownership I'd say the S212 is a better car in every way.

 

I have a 2012 E550 with 220K miles. I plan on keeping it as long as it's practical. I tell my friends that I'm 1 deer hit away from losing it. My last quarter panel hit resulted in an $8K claim 3 years ago. If it happens again, the insurance company will just deem it totaled. So I am not willing to sink $10K repair when a 4 legged animal can flush it down the toilet. Say bye bye to your repair warranty too. Not to mention all these distracted drivers ready to rear end me.

 

"Driving them all" I have to confirm that going from W124 to W210 my long leg felt the difference immediately, when handling went from "boating" to "crispy cornering".
But then we come to rims-bending designs -sacrifice to better handling and pimping trends.
Than comparison will never be fair as not too many would consider older MB where air bags were non-existent or would age and become non-operatable.
we can discuss if you like like traffic and factory GPS on newer models.
For me going from 25 mpg , 134 HP on W124 diesel to 45 mpg and tire burning engine on W212 Bluetec is the biggest issue. I also feel better making less poisons, although that is not something I can see or measure.

 

I plan to keep my E400 past 10 years. Now my 2014 will hit 10 years by June 2023.
I shall re-evaluate my decision there then at its 10th Bday.

The problem with my OCD nature is, I like keeping car feeling as virgin as possible as it ages and that gets very expensive.
I am ultra sensitive to deviation/degradation from suspension system and engine power and the typical "cricket-concert" (sound ) an aging car will generate interior wise, froms seats,
dashboard, panaromic roof liner, all door cards and the like. My local bad road are "cricket-concert" generator. My humid climate are rubber eaters.

The thin foam MB uses to cushion wires have many turned to dust mid last year, so that is at merely its 6th Bday. I noticed this when I was re-tigtening my panaromic roof chassis mechanism.
The same thin foam around the rear SAM wire harness has turned to dust too. These are baby "cricket-concert" generator, a little annoying but so MUCH work to access it, but I will re-do it.

Looking at my friend's C200 W204 at year 10, there are similar components made of plastic or rubber which my car will have the same aging fate, based on years and hours of exposure to
city driving. Nothing to do with mileage, which his is only 70,000KM. Its just irritating too see rubber goes soft and gooey like a bloody black sealant ... LOL. I am speaking gooey of the rubber lip/seal which is above the
radiator. Its called fan shroud. That is a hood seal preventing whistling noise at high speed. This item : https://partslinkent.com/mercedes-be...tor-cover-oem/
I wonder how much it will cost in my country from MB and how many months to special order.

I can't comment much on my M276.820 3.0 TT reliablity, as I only have logged 35,000KM max today.
For sure my savage WOT habit will age this engine fast, but I can accept predictable wear and tear of mechnical nature.
I am now casually chasing a missing 0.6 psi turbo boost , and will need to buy a smoke machine to verify the potential super minor air intake leak after/downstream of the compressor.

The plastic component inside the engine bay which handles coolant or oil is priority #1 to replace at year 10, to play it safe for me if I will keep past 10 years this W212.
The cost of the component are okey, but the plastic pipe from engine block to HVAC heater core for my car will be a nightmare to replace and it has to be replaced at year 10.

Later the headlight plastic lens will age and goes yellowish...., not so fast for my garaged 24/7 car....I hope.


Some tips for those with earlier W212 which has passed 10 years today, if your climate is like mine, do pay attention to the rubber grommets of the ABS sensor cables.
Once the grommet breaks and cable dangle, it maybe severed by steering system or suspension system. Do inspect it and do a DIY repair on it.

Photos below based on 2010 W204, 70,000KM my friend's car. Garaged car, mainly city traffic mileage and his 70,000/20 = 3,500 hours at least.... of heat exposure and 87,000 hours humidity exposure if 10 years.

Here is the rubber grommet, a sample it is still there, 50% of it but is crumbling. Many grommets are totally gone.


DIY "rubber grommet".


This can handle 120C temperature



The DIY rubber grommet is chafing protection. The cable tie is a big movement restrictor, that is all, so that the ABS sensor wire will not comes out of its clip but is still free to move a little.


Since the 3M 130C rubber is not very sticky, baby cable ties secures it.



When the grommet does not crumble when I squeeze it, it get insurance using cable tie. Below is the rear wheel.





50,000KM is the typical limit for rubber bushings life in Jakarta road. It can be 3-5 years, but more mileage related. This is how bad our roads are and adding fire to misery... the humid climate is to rubbers.
My friends front caster arm bushing at 70,000KM. That should been replaced when it was 50,000KM but he is ULTRA NUMB , he can't feel negative changes .... LOL.



On my E400, undercarriage inspection using Quick Jack is like at least 12 times a year.
I find early sign, visual ones : of wear and tear, aging, oxidation and the like. I don't wait till any becomes a problem.

I try preventing heat related accelerated aging/oxidation too. DIY solutions, to save me money in the long run from transmission computer accelerated aging from heat.
I still have not figured out how to cool the engine ECM yet. My friend's W204 engine's ECM already went bad and his install it not at the Vee bank like mine, but at the air intake side ( smart and suction cooling ).
Its a M271.860 engine.

.

 

The brittle grommets and wire holders become a problem starting with W210 and W163.
In the past I was visiting junk yards quite often and I made a habit of stripping W124 from those and also window regulator sliders.
When 5 or 7 yo plastic failed on W210 or W211, the 20-25 yo part from W124 worked perfectly.
My conclusion is that between those years MB subcontract those parts to other countries.

 

Hhhm interesting K, thank you.
I do notice some newer poducts have poor rubber or rubber/plastic materials compared to the older generation products of same brand.
My 1st dive computer is a Gen 1 device , its flexibe wrist band can survive 20 years of use. Its like silicone mix with something.
The later generations, 3rd and the much newer ones, its flexibe wrist band of different material very much probably, hardly survive 5 years before snapping and the US$1,600ish dive computer will sink to the depth.
Some newer rubber/plastic coated marine VHF I have, the coating becomes super sticky after just 4-5 years and my older Icoms are just fine.

I read somewhere that it is mandatory for German cars to use a percentage of recycle plastics, I doubt recycled rubber though.
https://www.audi-mediacenter.com/en/...plastics-14024

Remember the MB biodegradable wire insulation of 1990s models ?

 

Lucked to never had those, but it is interesting how plastic can be formulated.
In Las Vegas weather even exterior -rated plastic start chalking after 2 or 3 years.
Than we pick up biodegradable dog poop bags and when not used for over 6 months, they turn into flakes while still on the shelf.