Timing Belt/Waterpump Change on W212
I have about 93,000KM on my 2010 E550, had it in for service "A" a few weeks ago and was told the spark plugs needed to be replaced. I went ahead and had the dealer do that for about 350 bucks. (Less then I thought) but it got me thinking. What is the suggestion time for the water pump and timing belt?




Please don't take this the wrong way Sean, this is not a dig but a situation that I simply don't understand...
Generally when they start to fail you will see a telltale stream of drips of coolant or smell it. On my older c230, I started to smell it when she had around 80k on her, but she was 16 years old too. Besides the serpentine belt, the pump unbolts from the front of the engine. Nothing all that involved compared to a timing belt job.
Generally when they start to fail you will see a telltale stream of drips of coolant or smell it. On my older c230, I started to smell it when she had around 80k on her, but she was 16 years old too. Besides the serpentine belt, the pump unbolts from the front of the engine. Nothing all that involved compared to a timing belt job.
I have never owned any brand of car that had a replacement interval specified for the water pump
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The youngest and lowest mileage car is the current 2011 E350. The oldest is the current 2001 SLK320 and the one I drove the furthest was a W124 E320 DOHC inline 6 to 300,000 km.
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Now lets use a subaru for example here, however, there are others that also use a timing belt rather then chain. Now, on a subaru the belt is serviced ever 91k miles i believe. This is to prevent it from breaking. A rubber belt is worn over time, stretches, the auto tensioner maxes out, and thus will eventually break. If this happens to an interference motor the pistons will contact the valves and cause a lot of damage usually remedied by motor replacement as the most cost effective repair. But that's another thread. Our motors are interference motors by the way so timing is critical and this is why the chain is always a better option for engineers. So... the confusion here is based on this logic. On a subaru (and some others) the timing belt drives the water pump. It is recommended to replace the water pump while servicing the timing belt solely because it is cost effective in the long run- not because the water pump is upon a service interval. Its just a smart move because most of the labor is done to get at the pump- may as well replace it while you're in there. Also, if the pump fails down the road it could very well take out your new belt and destroy your motor.
Our water pumps are pretty good, rarely fail, and are driven by the serpentine belt (poly v-belt). This belt is replaced when it looks worn. Your dealer will recommend it when its ready or just ask to have it checked for piece of mind.
Now lets use a subaru for example here, however, there are others that also use a timing belt rather then chain. Now, on a subaru the belt is serviced ever 91k miles i believe. This is to prevent it from breaking. A rubber belt is worn over time, stretches, the auto tensioner maxes out, and thus will eventually break. If this happens to an interference motor the pistons will contact the valves and cause a lot of damage usually remedied by motor replacement as the most cost effective repair. But that's another thread. Our motors are interference motors by the way so timing is critical and this is why the chain is always a better option for engineers. So... the confusion here is based on this logic. On a subaru (and some others) the timing belt drives the water pump. It is recommended to replace the water pump while servicing the timing belt solely because it is cost effective in the long run- not because the water pump is upon a service interval. Its just a smart move because most of the labor is done to get at the pump- may as well replace it while you're in there. Also, if the pump fails down the road it could very well take out your new belt and destroy your motor.
Our water pumps are pretty good, rarely fail, and are driven by the serpentine belt (poly v-belt). This belt is replaced when it looks worn. Your dealer will recommend it when its ready or just ask to have it checked for piece of mind.
Now lets use a subaru for example here, however, there are others that also use a timing belt rather then chain. Now, on a subaru the belt is serviced ever 91k miles i believe. This is to prevent it from breaking. A rubber belt is worn over time, stretches, the auto tensioner maxes out, and thus will eventually break. If this happens to an interference motor the pistons will contact the valves and cause a lot of damage usually remedied by motor replacement as the most cost effective repair. But that's another thread. Our motors are interference motors by the way so timing is critical and this is why the chain is always a better option for engineers. So... the confusion here is based on this logic. On a subaru (and some others) the timing belt drives the water pump. It is recommended to replace the water pump while servicing the timing belt solely because it is cost effective in the long run- not because the water pump is upon a service interval. Its just a smart move because most of the labor is done to get at the pump- may as well replace it while you're in there. Also, if the pump fails down the road it could very well take out your new belt and destroy your motor.
Our water pumps are pretty good, rarely fail, and are driven by the serpentine belt (poly v-belt). This belt is replaced when it looks worn. Your dealer will recommend it when its ready or just ask to have it checked for piece of mind.
Getting to the 100km mark and I plan on keeping the car for another 2 years so I want to get an idea of whats upcoming.
I HAVE A 2010 E350 RWD THATS AT 85K. I WANT CHANGE THE ROLLERS AND BELT BUT AM NOT SURE IF TO CHANGE THE WATER PUMP. THERE'S NO LEAKING AND I DON'T THINK IT'S MAKING NOISE. TEMPS AND ALL IS OK TOO.
-WOULD YOU CHANGE IT AND WHY NOT WAIT. THANKS
I think w212 has a timing chain , no belt. You don't really need to replace the pump on any schedule. You usually will know when the pump is failing, and most of the time it is the seal fails first and by then you just replace the pump with new seals.





