E550 Rotor and Brake pads replacement advice.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
From: Nashville, TN
C32 AMG
E550 Rotor and Brake pads replacement advice.
I've seen numerous threads on the topic of W212 E550's with pulsating brakes/rotors. Alot of them are pointing to poor OE materials and having to "bed" the brakes properly.
I'm reluctant to replace them with OE parts since people are claiming the same problem reoccurring after using OE. Haven't seen much on the topic on what people are replacing them with using aftermarket parts and reviews.
I have a nice road trip ahead of me this weekend and need to replace them beforehand. I've called around some auto shops (Advanced, AutoZone, O'Reilly's, Pepboys) and their quoting me prices between $240-$315 for the fronts. Checked fleabay and found that I can get a whole set F&R rotors and pads for that price. Anyone have any experience with Eline or PowerStop?
Would like for opinions to which aftermarket rotors and pads to get. And if there's any reasons to stay away from one brand vs. the other as well as cross drilled vs. slotted and drilled.
Thanks in advance!
I'm reluctant to replace them with OE parts since people are claiming the same problem reoccurring after using OE. Haven't seen much on the topic on what people are replacing them with using aftermarket parts and reviews.
I have a nice road trip ahead of me this weekend and need to replace them beforehand. I've called around some auto shops (Advanced, AutoZone, O'Reilly's, Pepboys) and their quoting me prices between $240-$315 for the fronts. Checked fleabay and found that I can get a whole set F&R rotors and pads for that price. Anyone have any experience with Eline or PowerStop?
Would like for opinions to which aftermarket rotors and pads to get. And if there's any reasons to stay away from one brand vs. the other as well as cross drilled vs. slotted and drilled.
Thanks in advance!
Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 77
Likes: 15
2009 Subaru WRX, 2011 E550
Rotors
Hi there,
I replaced my rotors and pads with OEM rotors and pads a few months ago. Like you I read all the posts about the pulsating associated with the OEM parts and was weary about going that route. The original owner had all four done under warranty at about 25k miles due to pulsating. The dealer installed OEM parts at that time. So, I was just about at the 50k mark and I noticed a little vibration. I would not say they were pulsating really but, for the record, my experience with most brake parts is that they last for about 25K with me behind the wheel. So, I stopped by the dealer and inquired about the pulsating issue and the parts guy reassured me that they have fixed the issue with the rotors. There was not a huge cost savings going aftermarket so, I decided to take a chance with the OEM parts.
As it worked out I did the fronts a couple weeks before I did the backs. I never had a rear brake job makes such a significant effect on braking. Now the backs were not in horrible shape I would say about 50%?? Anyways, I have about 5K on the new set and they still feel like new (as they should). If I get 25K like the last set I'll be satisfied. If not I will not hesitate going aftermarket next time.
Good luck!
I replaced my rotors and pads with OEM rotors and pads a few months ago. Like you I read all the posts about the pulsating associated with the OEM parts and was weary about going that route. The original owner had all four done under warranty at about 25k miles due to pulsating. The dealer installed OEM parts at that time. So, I was just about at the 50k mark and I noticed a little vibration. I would not say they were pulsating really but, for the record, my experience with most brake parts is that they last for about 25K with me behind the wheel. So, I stopped by the dealer and inquired about the pulsating issue and the parts guy reassured me that they have fixed the issue with the rotors. There was not a huge cost savings going aftermarket so, I decided to take a chance with the OEM parts.
As it worked out I did the fronts a couple weeks before I did the backs. I never had a rear brake job makes such a significant effect on braking. Now the backs were not in horrible shape I would say about 50%?? Anyways, I have about 5K on the new set and they still feel like new (as they should). If I get 25K like the last set I'll be satisfied. If not I will not hesitate going aftermarket next time.
Good luck!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,142
Likes: 1,295
From: Southern US
2010 E550, 273 Engine: 2012 S550, 278 Engine
I've seen numerous threads on the topic of W212 E550's with pulsating brakes/rotors. Alot of them are pointing to poor OE materials and having to "bed" the brakes properly.
I'm reluctant to replace them with OE parts since people are claiming the same problem reoccurring after using OE. Haven't seen much on the topic on what people are replacing them with using aftermarket parts and reviews.
I have a nice road trip ahead of me this weekend and need to replace them beforehand. I've called around some auto shops (Advanced, AutoZone, O'Reilly's, Pepboys) and their quoting me prices between $240-$315 for the fronts. Checked fleabay and found that I can get a whole set F&R rotors and pads for that price. Anyone have any experience with Eline or PowerStop?
Would like for opinions to which aftermarket rotors and pads to get. And if there's any reasons to stay away from one brand vs. the other as well as cross drilled vs. slotted and drilled.
Thanks in advance!
I'm reluctant to replace them with OE parts since people are claiming the same problem reoccurring after using OE. Haven't seen much on the topic on what people are replacing them with using aftermarket parts and reviews.
I have a nice road trip ahead of me this weekend and need to replace them beforehand. I've called around some auto shops (Advanced, AutoZone, O'Reilly's, Pepboys) and their quoting me prices between $240-$315 for the fronts. Checked fleabay and found that I can get a whole set F&R rotors and pads for that price. Anyone have any experience with Eline or PowerStop?
Would like for opinions to which aftermarket rotors and pads to get. And if there's any reasons to stay away from one brand vs. the other as well as cross drilled vs. slotted and drilled.
Thanks in advance!
Go with a car part store where they give you a good warranty for them. If you order on line you are on your own pretty much and even if they give you warranty you need to return the part to them before they send the replacement.
If you buy from a store that you can walk to you can get the part the same day you remove the defective one and not be without your car for extended number of days.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 264
Likes: 3
From: OKC, OK
2022 GLE 450;
Go with a car part store where they give you a good warranty for them. If you order on line you are on your own pretty much and even if they give you warranty you need to return the part to them before they send the replacement.
If you buy from a store that you can walk to you can get the part the same day you remove the defective one and not be without your car for extended number of days.
If you buy from a store that you can walk to you can get the part the same day you remove the defective one and not be without your car for extended number of days.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
From: Nashville, TN
C32 AMG
Do you know if they used an updated rotor or pads? Part #'s would be great if you have it. Assuming you're still running the OE semi-metallic pads, right?
Does anyone know if semi metallic or ceramic pads are more prone to leaving deposits on the rotors which may contribute to vibration while braking?
Wow! Does the 25k before new brake parts include rotors? Seems pretty quick... I previously had a w203 AMG and didn't have any problems with pulsing brakes or rotor issues with spirited driving. Used akebones as pad replacements, worked great. Had the car from 20k to 100k miles without having to replace rotors granted the w212 is definitely heavier.
Does anyone know if semi metallic or ceramic pads are more prone to leaving deposits on the rotors which may contribute to vibration while braking?
Wow! Does the 25k before new brake parts include rotors? Seems pretty quick... I previously had a w203 AMG and didn't have any problems with pulsing brakes or rotor issues with spirited driving. Used akebones as pad replacements, worked great. Had the car from 20k to 100k miles without having to replace rotors granted the w212 is definitely heavier.
Hi there,
I replaced my rotors and pads with OEM rotors and pads a few months ago. Like you I read all the posts about the pulsating associated with the OEM parts and was weary about going that route. The original owner had all four done under warranty at about 25k miles due to pulsating. The dealer installed OEM parts at that time. So, I was just about at the 50k mark and I noticed a little vibration. I would not say they were pulsating really but, for the record, my experience with most brake parts is that they last for about 25K with me behind the wheel. So, I stopped by the dealer and inquired about the pulsating issue and the parts guy reassured me that they have fixed the issue with the rotors. There was not a huge cost savings going aftermarket so, I decided to take a chance with the OEM parts.
As it worked out I did the fronts a couple weeks before I did the backs. I never had a rear brake job makes such a significant effect on braking. Now the backs were not in horrible shape I would say about 50%?? Anyways, I have about 5K on the new set and they still feel like new (as they should). If I get 25K like the last set I'll be satisfied. If not I will not hesitate going aftermarket next time.
Good luck!
I replaced my rotors and pads with OEM rotors and pads a few months ago. Like you I read all the posts about the pulsating associated with the OEM parts and was weary about going that route. The original owner had all four done under warranty at about 25k miles due to pulsating. The dealer installed OEM parts at that time. So, I was just about at the 50k mark and I noticed a little vibration. I would not say they were pulsating really but, for the record, my experience with most brake parts is that they last for about 25K with me behind the wheel. So, I stopped by the dealer and inquired about the pulsating issue and the parts guy reassured me that they have fixed the issue with the rotors. There was not a huge cost savings going aftermarket so, I decided to take a chance with the OEM parts.
As it worked out I did the fronts a couple weeks before I did the backs. I never had a rear brake job makes such a significant effect on braking. Now the backs were not in horrible shape I would say about 50%?? Anyways, I have about 5K on the new set and they still feel like new (as they should). If I get 25K like the last set I'll be satisfied. If not I will not hesitate going aftermarket next time.
Good luck!
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
From: Nashville, TN
C32 AMG
Great point about local auto store warranty vs online purchases. Since the job is urgent to be ready for my cruise down the beach with my pretty lady... I'm crossing my fingers and going with AutoZone. Not my first preference but I've read some positive reviews and the 3yr warranty isn't bad for $240 for the front set of R&Ps. Considering if the pulsing occurs again, I can go back to the source. Hopefully it doesn't happen. Most local auto shops were quoting $80 give or take for the rotors.. pad prices varied. Order the best ceremic pads they carried.
Dealer was quoting $680 plus tax per axle.. not sure if that's the original parts or the remediate versions??Local Eurofix shop quoted me $760 for the fronts tried justifying the price due to their 3yr warranty using OE parts. Said they can go cheaper with aftermarkets but didn't recommend it. I know the pricing from MB and there's alot of labor buffer in there. Might as well do them yourself if you're capable. Not sure what MB offers in terms of warranty but sounds like they've given owners problems after the first warranty repair. Shame on you MB!!
Thanks for the list of known quality aftermarkets.. I'm more familiar with those than the China makers. Be a nightmare for brakes to fail due to heat or whatever... Was looking at the EBC yellowstuff but ordering wouldn't be here in time.
Dealer was quoting $680 plus tax per axle.. not sure if that's the original parts or the remediate versions??Local Eurofix shop quoted me $760 for the fronts tried justifying the price due to their 3yr warranty using OE parts. Said they can go cheaper with aftermarkets but didn't recommend it. I know the pricing from MB and there's alot of labor buffer in there. Might as well do them yourself if you're capable. Not sure what MB offers in terms of warranty but sounds like they've given owners problems after the first warranty repair. Shame on you MB!!
Thanks for the list of known quality aftermarkets.. I'm more familiar with those than the China makers. Be a nightmare for brakes to fail due to heat or whatever... Was looking at the EBC yellowstuff but ordering wouldn't be here in time.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,084
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From: Seattle
2011 Mercedes E550 Sport
I purchased my 2011 E550 with 35,000 miles on it few weeks ago and it had the brake paddle vibration when braking at any speed. I replaced front rotors with OEM and pads with ceramic low dust ones. Time will tell if the vibration will come back. So far its only been about 1000 miles and all is good 
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MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: Southern US
2010 E550, 273 Engine: 2012 S550, 278 Engine
I would stay away from Brembo as I understand that is or was the maker of the problematic OEM rotors.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,084
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From: Seattle
2011 Mercedes E550 Sport
From what I am independent mechanic who used to work for Mercedes told me, Brembo was not and is not manufacture of rotors for E350 or E550. He told me at the company who makes them and they also sell same rotors but not under Mercedes name. Right now I can't recall the company that makes them... I purchased my rotors from a Mercedes wholesale website and install them myself .
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,142
Likes: 1,295
From: Southern US
2010 E550, 273 Engine: 2012 S550, 278 Engine
Great point about local auto store warranty vs online purchases. Since the job is urgent to be ready for my cruise down the beach with my pretty lady... I'm crossing my fingers and going with AutoZone. Not my first preference but I've read some positive reviews and the 3yr warranty isn't bad for $240 for the front set of R&Ps. Considering if the pulsing occurs again, I can go back to the source. Hopefully it doesn't happen. Most local auto shops were quoting $80 give or take for the rotors.. pad prices varied. Order the best ceremic pads they carried.
Dealer was quoting $680 plus tax per axle.. not sure if that's the original parts or the remediate versions??Local Eurofix shop quoted me $760 for the fronts tried justifying the price due to their 3yr warranty using OE parts. Said they can go cheaper with aftermarkets but didn't recommend it. I know the pricing from MB and there's alot of labor buffer in there. Might as well do them yourself if you're capable. Not sure what MB offers in terms of warranty but sounds like they've given owners problems after the first warranty repair. Shame on you MB!!
Thanks for the list of known quality aftermarkets.. I'm more familiar with those than the China makers. Be a nightmare for brakes to fail due to heat or whatever... Was looking at the EBC yellowstuff but ordering wouldn't be here in time.
Dealer was quoting $680 plus tax per axle.. not sure if that's the original parts or the remediate versions??Local Eurofix shop quoted me $760 for the fronts tried justifying the price due to their 3yr warranty using OE parts. Said they can go cheaper with aftermarkets but didn't recommend it. I know the pricing from MB and there's alot of labor buffer in there. Might as well do them yourself if you're capable. Not sure what MB offers in terms of warranty but sounds like they've given owners problems after the first warranty repair. Shame on you MB!!
Thanks for the list of known quality aftermarkets.. I'm more familiar with those than the China makers. Be a nightmare for brakes to fail due to heat or whatever... Was looking at the EBC yellowstuff but ordering wouldn't be here in time.
I just had service done at 95000 miles and have never had issues with brakes pulsating at all. My car is a 2010 model but it was made in May or June 2009 so I may have brake rotors that were of an older make compared to the newer cars. Don't know but sometimes they change design or supplier and end up with problem parts and clearly they had issues with the rotors.
When it is time for new rotors for my car I will go with AutoZone again. Been very happy with their parts.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,142
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From: Southern US
2010 E550, 273 Engine: 2012 S550, 278 Engine
From what I am independent mechanic who used to work for Mercedes told me, Brembo was not and is not manufacture of rotors for E350 or E550. He told me at the company who makes them and they also sell same rotors but not under Mercedes name. Right now I can't recall the company that makes them... I purchased my rotors from a Mercedes wholesale website and install them myself .
you might be right but in the lengthy warped rotors discussion in this forum Brembo is mentioned as the rotor manufacturer for MB. I don't know better but it very well could be.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 146
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From: Nashville, TN
C32 AMG
Glad to hear that you've been happy with AutoZone parts. I installed my pads and rotors earlier today. Total cost was $242.50 after taxes. 2yr warranty on the perforated rotors and lifetime on their best ceremic pads. The pads I order don't come with sensors.. Tried to reuse the old ones since they didn't brake but the AutoZone pads didn't have the hole for the sensor to plug into. Did yours? Don't think it's a huge problem.. I just flipped on backward into the slot, obviously they won't alert. Just didn't want any error codes which I don't. Noticed I didn't have a sensor on the drivers side.. not sure if it ever did.
About 1.5 hrs labor if you do it yourself but I work slow. Apparently the W212 E350 brakes are different than the E550. There's a video on YouTube for 2010 E350 which I realized are different after I took off the wheel. There's an E550 brake and rotor video on YouTube from the previous model and the brake pad and rotor change is identical.
Drove around bedding the brakes and allowed them to cool AND GUESS WHAT??? No more pulsating brakes!! Mission accomplished, now I can really enjoy driving this car!!
I'll be sure to report back if the issue resurfaces but if not, safe to assume all is well.
About 1.5 hrs labor if you do it yourself but I work slow. Apparently the W212 E350 brakes are different than the E550. There's a video on YouTube for 2010 E350 which I realized are different after I took off the wheel. There's an E550 brake and rotor video on YouTube from the previous model and the brake pad and rotor change is identical.
Drove around bedding the brakes and allowed them to cool AND GUESS WHAT??? No more pulsating brakes!! Mission accomplished, now I can really enjoy driving this car!!
I'll be sure to report back if the issue resurfaces but if not, safe to assume all is well.
I bought my car with 14700 miles on it almost five years ago. I changed the brake pads for dusting issues. Went with AutoZone ceramic pads.
I just had service done at 95000 miles and have never had issues with brakes pulsating at all. My car is a 2010 model but it was made in May or June 2009 so I may have brake rotors that were of an older make compared to the newer cars. Don't know but sometimes they change design or supplier and end up with problem parts and clearly they had issues with the rotors.
When it is time for new rotors for my car I will go with AutoZone again. Been very happy with their parts.
I just had service done at 95000 miles and have never had issues with brakes pulsating at all. My car is a 2010 model but it was made in May or June 2009 so I may have brake rotors that were of an older make compared to the newer cars. Don't know but sometimes they change design or supplier and end up with problem parts and clearly they had issues with the rotors.
When it is time for new rotors for my car I will go with AutoZone again. Been very happy with their parts.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 1,273
Likes: 129
From: Orlando, FL
2015 GL550 4matic
Just be glad you don't have the E63. I was comparing costs of simple parts like brakes as I evaluate a purchase and the front rotors are only available from MB, they cost $850 each!!! 
That might be one defining factor in my choice of 2012 Biturbo E550 over the E63.
That might be one defining factor in my choice of 2012 Biturbo E550 over the E63.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 38
Likes: 1
Previous: 2011 e550 Current 2014 E350
It appears Autozone ceramic brakes have received good reviews here. My e550 needs brake replacement (after 30,000 miles) and I was looking for alternatives to OEM brakes. Looks like I have to drop by my neighborhood Autozone location.
Thanks for the information from you all on this thread.
Thanks for the information from you all on this thread.
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: St. Louis, MO
2013 E350 4matic
Check autobrakecenter.com. I just received my Centric front pads and sensors for my e350 for $47 plus shipping. Looking forward to trying out as they were rated good on this forum and supposed to last twice as long as my OEM's did.
My rotors weren't pulsating too much but showed a lot of wear so I bought some Zimmerman drilled rotors for $186 shipped. Hopefully for $235 I'll have some brakes that will last longer than 20K!
My rotors weren't pulsating too much but showed a lot of wear so I bought some Zimmerman drilled rotors for $186 shipped. Hopefully for $235 I'll have some brakes that will last longer than 20K!
Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 77
Likes: 15
2009 Subaru WRX, 2011 E550
rotors
Sorry it took so long to get back to you. I turned out to be one of "those" weeks.
My Mercedes receipt reads:
(front pads) Part number 004-420-80-20-41
Part number 004-420-80-20-4, replaces 005-420-85-20
(front rotors) Part number 000-421-15-12-07
(rear pads) Part number 007-420-68-20
(rear rotor) Part number 000-423-11-12-07
Part number 000-423-11-12-0 replaces 000-423-11-12
I read you have already gone in another direction but, maybe someone can use this. If I read this right, I guess it means that Mercedes replaced the front pads and rear rotors with updated parts??
I know I could have gotten many more miles out of the brakes however, after 25k they just did not have that new feeling. The fronts and rears were about 50% gone.
I will not play any games though. If these turn out to be a problem I will head to the aftermarket and not look back. I can't stand pulsating or vibrating brakes, just does not feel safe.
My Mercedes receipt reads:
(front pads) Part number 004-420-80-20-41
Part number 004-420-80-20-4, replaces 005-420-85-20
(front rotors) Part number 000-421-15-12-07
(rear pads) Part number 007-420-68-20
(rear rotor) Part number 000-423-11-12-07
Part number 000-423-11-12-0 replaces 000-423-11-12
I read you have already gone in another direction but, maybe someone can use this. If I read this right, I guess it means that Mercedes replaced the front pads and rear rotors with updated parts??
I know I could have gotten many more miles out of the brakes however, after 25k they just did not have that new feeling. The fronts and rears were about 50% gone.
I will not play any games though. If these turn out to be a problem I will head to the aftermarket and not look back. I can't stand pulsating or vibrating brakes, just does not feel safe.
Do you know if they used an updated rotor or pads? Part #'s would be great if you have it. Assuming you're still running the OE semi-metallic pads, right?
Does anyone know if semi metallic or ceramic pads are more prone to leaving deposits on the rotors which may contribute to vibration while braking?
Wow! Does the 25k before new brake parts include rotors? Seems pretty quick... I previously had a w203 AMG and didn't have any problems with pulsing brakes or rotor issues with spirited driving. Used akebones as pad replacements, worked great. Had the car from 20k to 100k miles without having to replace rotors granted the w212 is definitely heavier.
Does anyone know if semi metallic or ceramic pads are more prone to leaving deposits on the rotors which may contribute to vibration while braking?
Wow! Does the 25k before new brake parts include rotors? Seems pretty quick... I previously had a w203 AMG and didn't have any problems with pulsing brakes or rotor issues with spirited driving. Used akebones as pad replacements, worked great. Had the car from 20k to 100k miles without having to replace rotors granted the w212 is definitely heavier.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
From: Nashville, TN
C32 AMG
Yes, they were quite simple actually. 2 pins hold the pads in place. C clamp to compress the calipers, 2 bolts holding the caliper in place (not the torque bolts), one philips screw for the rotor. Here's a video for the DYI.
https://youtu.be/mPb5soEeQuE
Shows an earlier model E Class but the brake and rotor replacement is the same as the W212 E550. Pretty sure the brakes on E350 are different.
https://youtu.be/mPb5soEeQuE
Shows an earlier model E Class but the brake and rotor replacement is the same as the W212 E550. Pretty sure the brakes on E350 are different.
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 7
Likes: 1
2010 E550
Didn't read all the replies but I hope this helps: Wifes 2010 E550 had pulsating brakes. Did the brake pad clean (100mph stops) and it worked for 200 miles or so. Replaced pads, 200 miles or so and it came back (pulsating pedal). Turned the rotors (OEM MB rotors) and they were still in tolerance after being turned (they were warped before) put them back on and in < 1000 miles, pulsating pedal again. Replaced rotors with new Centric OEM replacements ($196 shipped from RockAuto), these are the OEM, nobody makes replacements for our E550's that are not drilled. Problem gone and that was 10K miles ago and lots of hard stops since then. What I learned is that as the factory rotor gets thin, it warps. Don't bother turning them, it is a waste of money. 40K miles and replace with new.
