When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys,
I am about to do this job on my E63 - I have a question
How do I jack the rear of the car? I have cooling fins on my differential. Do I jack behind the fins? I feel like it's not an even surface.
Can I jack one side at a time and work on each side? I have done that in the past by using a hydraulic jack on the side front jack point and lift the car high enough that I can stick a jack stand on the rear point.
I'm late responding to this, but in my case, I wanted to jack in the center, and I tested weight on the cooling fins a few different ways. The fins are a die cast aluminum and proved to be reasonably robust. On my E63 I ultimately did use a block of wood and jacked under the cooling fins.
I did both sides by jacking one side at a time. I disconnected the valve with the first air spring and broke the plastic cover for the compressor. The little plastic nuts broke off so easily.
the first air spring was almost impossible to remove. No matter how hard I tapped it from the bottom. I ended up having to chizel and drill the plastic out of the bottom for it to get lose.
second one was a little easier...
either way. Thanks for the help guys! Hopefully will not have to touch the air suspension for a few years.
I just jacked the rear of my 2007 E63 after properly raising the front on Reverse Logic SS rectangular swivel Posts atop the Esco tall 10498 Jackstands. In order to do this, I had to use Xentry to raise the front Airmatic struts first so my low profile jack would clear the front spoiler. Before doing this, I placed 2x8s under the rear wheels which provide clearance for the jack to clear the aluminum fins once the front is raised. While lifting the front, I gradually released air from the fronts with Xentry to relieve stress from the struts being fully extended under 8bar or pressure.
Affter carefully placing the Esco stands in place, it takes a few checks to confirm the OEM mounting pads line up with the RL rectangular posts. Once mounted up front, I used a 6” piece of 4x4 laying horizontally across my jack pad and carefully lined it up with the differential which is foreword of those fins. There’s about 2” of clearance of the fins using the 4x4 and the 6” width supports the diff fully. Raise then support rear with Esco Stands and do it over again for more hieght if necessary!!! Also release air with Xentry for the rears while doing this, if possible.
Thanks guys for this informative DIY. I have a 2012 cls63 that drops in the rear after a day or two of sitting. Wondering if this DIY would work on my vehicle? Thanks in advance!
Thanks you so much guys. If it wasn't for you I would not have tried it! Two things that helped get it over the line. Once I compressed the new spring, having left the disposable plastic insert at the valve in place, I put some chewing gum on the disposable insert to stop the air going back in to the spring. The second thing that helped was a wide based padded bottle jack upside down in the wheel arch to push the hub gently down. There was very little pressure on it but just enough to get the spring in place.
It just all slotted in no problem! Thanks again.
The pictures were the best to help us understand what was going on.
I'll not send it to the dealer for this again.
Last time I had the dealer did it on my S550 because Arnott told me they didn't have one in stock, I'll have to wait 3 weeks if I had my old spring "core" sent to them for rebuild. Then I'll have to have a rental car for 3 weeks, figure it's cheaper to have "free" dealer loaner car for 10 days (dealer didn't have it in stock either).
$1695 out the door, and I drove a lovely brand new (18 miles) E class for 11 days, three enjoyable trips to Vegas, Santa Barbra, and Sen Diego. I figure I did ok. LOL.
But this thread was as good as it gets. Thank you again.
1. When you all were replacing your rear air springs, did you also inspect your leveling arms/rods to ensure they weren’t seized up? My understanding is this would affect ride height as well. And if so, anyone have a picture where these rear ones are exactly located?
2. Did you all remove the air reservoir and it’s attached hose when removing the old oem air spring? Or just leave it hanging and tape the end of the hose off (per Arnott)?
Your DIY is the first time I’ve heard of removing the caliper on the brakes in order to replace the air Maddock shocks I’m going to do this job today and I’m hoping that I don’t have to do that
Originally Posted by pwells
Jack on differential
Disconnect battery, you don't want the airmatic doing anything while you're working on it.
Compress ears on tabs so cover comes free.
Cover from under lower arm.
I couldn't figure out how to disconnect the air line without being able to compress the spring, so pull down the dust cover to expose area to drill hole.
Thank you you again for your posts on this subject. I did my rear air struts today. I’m glad that I invested in a quickjack. Made getting under almost pleasant. Also if I were to give a tip to others I found I was able to remove and install the new airstrut without removing the caliper or like I e seen in other videos disassembling other suspension parts.
i used a woodworking clamp in spreader mode and after drilling a hole in the old air strut body I spread the suspension as is there was the same load on the airbag before deflating it. I still had to compress the airstrut as I installed the new one.
Two things I've learned since changing the rear spring...
Firstly, the air compressor sits under a cover on the left rear of the car, do a search and you'll find pictures elsewhere on this forum or just look where the small pneumatic lines go. The compressor is under a cover (4 x 10 mm nuts). Next to the compressor is the valve block which controls the air to and from each of the four springs. So instead of drilling a hole to let the air out of the old spring you can just back off the nut of the appropriate line at the valve block. Best to clean the area prior to disconnecting. The lines are color coded and labeled to make it easy. I found it easier to remove the valve block (2 torx screws) so I could access the nut. See the attached picture.
Secondly, installing the new spring into the limited place is quite tricky and if the car has been sitting with the spring without pressure, i.e. collapsed then be prepared to push down on the wheel hub to extend the space to receive the spring. Easier if you have a helper. Be careful when installing the new spring not to damage the air fitting.
Good luck, it's not a tough job, just don't get in a rush.
I want to thank everyone who has contributed to this DIY thread!! I replaced the air springs in my 2011 E350 wagon this weekend and all is terrific.
My two cents -
1. I bought the Arnott air springs from Rockauto.com. Great price, quick delivery.
2. I let the wagon sit overnight which let the leaky left (driver's side) bag collapse. Then jacked it up the next morning. Being generally collapsed this bag came out easily enough.
3. I didn't really have any trouble getting a small 10mm wrench on the air line fittings and disconnecting the lines while the springs were still in place.
4. As noted by another DIY'er - using a jack to push the suspension *down* makes all the difference in the world. I carefully positioned a bottle jack between the stabilizer link and the top of the fender. Make sure to have a solid position, you don't want that to pop loose.
5. On the air spring that was still in good condition I ran into the same problem that someone noted, about not being able to whack the bottom loose with a hammer. Even though I had removed the air line and released the air, there was enough residual air holding the spring in place. I used another bottle jack underneath to push up on the air spring and collapse it. Once it was high enough I easily pried it out of the bottom cradle.
6. I didn't do it, but another DIY'er had a good idea about using a piece of chewing gum - essentially compress the new spring by hand, and put the gum over the air inlet. This would help keep the spring smaller while you position it in place. I did try a piece of electrical tape but kept knocking it off... So I just fought with things for a couple of minutes. Not a big fight.
7. After you remove the brass fittings from the original MB air line setup you simply push the air line into the new springs after they are in place. Very simple. A little scary since you expect something more involved. My new Arnott springs came with a little plastic clip/mount piece that must be for another application, I couldn't find any reason for it on my wagon.
8. I was done in only two hours. Not a big job at all.
9. The wagon is sitting perfect. It had been collapsing after about 4 hours. The last two mornings it has not budged after sitting overnight.
10. I do notice that the new Arnott springs are a shade firmer and it could be the old springs had gotten soft, I don't know. But the ride feels more stable and I'm very pleased.
I can confirm that you dont have to drill a whole on the old air spring. I just loosened the nut on the Valve Block under the rear bumper. All said and dine it is 45 min each as long as you dont get stuck on taking the old air spring out.
After getting everything installed and driving around, it appears that the suspension is stuck in sport mode. The ride does not feel any different, but I am not sure what the issue is. Anyone have any issues with the Arnott Rear air springs doing this? The valve block was recently changed at a MB dealership and there is no malfunction warning going on. Also the raise vehicle function works just fine. Any thoughts? Already unplugged battery for a power cycle.
Many suggestions before towing? I checked fuses, how do u check relay? They say 12volt but do this as car is on? Unplug it and check or attached?
Please help
Originally Posted by Paulcomi
Your DIY is the first time I’ve heard of removing the caliper on the brakes in order to replace the air Maddock shocks I’m going to do this job today and I’m hoping that I don’t have to do that
Swap the relay with another one..example the AC relay and see if that works. If its not kicking on, its either the relay or the compressor.
I will try this👍
I tried to google the AC relay? And couldn’t find it. I’m not that experienced with relays, I tried to see which one it wouldn’t need (similar in size) without interfering with starting and running vehicle, would fuel pump to swap be ok because not driving? Sorry prob a dumb question.
thank u for your help!
someone said have to clear codes before the compressor will kick on I’m some situations🤷*♂️
Last edited by Dustin Agnelli; 07-28-2019 at 04:51 PM.
Reason: Update edited question
Swap the relay with another one..example the AC relay and see if that works. If its not kicking on, its either the relay or the compressor.
Originally Posted by Dustin Agnelli
I will try this👍
I tried to google the AC relay? And couldn’t find it. I’m not that experienced with relays, I tried to see which one it wouldn’t need (similar in size) without interfering with starting and running vehicle, would fuel pump to swap be ok because not driving? Sorry prob a dumb question.
thank u for your help!
someone said have to clear codes before the compressor will kick on I’m some situations🤷*♂️
Relay did Not work. I changed 40 fuse also. I can’t imagine that the compressor just went out while working on this. I was looking and should I check fused on floor board or rear trunk? This has been the worst repair of my life
Relay did Not work. I changed 40 fuse also. I can’t imagine that the compressor just went out while working on this. I was looking and should I check fused on floor board or rear trunk? This has been the worst repair of my life
has to be the compressor then.. you can manually test it by hot wiring it to a battery or use a manual override relay that forces 12v to the compressor
Is it just one relay and 40fuse? under the hood? Or take off the panel under it or under floor board passenger? Or anything rear SAM?
Remember the electrical connector to airbag “clip” broke so may not be getting clean connection🤷*♂️
I just before starting another project with this car want to make sure I didn’t do anything wrong.
also I did lower car way low to see if get it to manually fill. Maybe it broke bag?
When I read on compressor it says all sides will be lowered. I have to get a new scanner since mine does not run suspension. Debating be autel and I carsoftII?
any other suggestions on fuses to check. I didn’t see the 40 amp under hood unless it’s the one hidden below the main one?
12-08-2018, 07:47 AM
