Thank you! I guess I will do that. I'll take some pics and share back with everyone if I encounter anything different on the 63.

 

 

I'm late responding to this, but in my case, I wanted to jack in the center, and I tested weight on the cooling fins a few different ways. The fins are a die cast aluminum and proved to be reasonably robust. On my E63 I ultimately did use a block of wood and jacked under the cooling fins.

 

I did both sides by jacking one side at a time. I disconnected the valve with the first air spring and broke the plastic cover for the compressor. The little plastic nuts broke off so easily.
the first air spring was almost impossible to remove. No matter how hard I tapped it from the bottom. I ended up having to chizel and drill the plastic out of the bottom for it to get lose.
second one was a little easier...
either way. Thanks for the help guys! Hopefully will not have to touch the air suspension for a few years.

 

 

 

Amazing write up and pictures! And further solidifies why I will never DIY anything on a car! Hahaha.

 

 

Thanks you so much guys. If it wasn't for you I would not have tried it! Two things that helped get it over the line. Once I compressed the new spring, having left the disposable plastic insert at the valve in place, I put some chewing gum on the disposable insert to stop the air going back in to the spring. The second thing that helped was a wide based padded bottle jack upside down in the wheel arch to push the hub gently down. There was very little pressure on it but just enough to get the spring in place.
It just all slotted in no problem! Thanks again.

 

Great thread, thank you so much.

The pictures were the best to help us understand what was going on.
I'll not send it to the dealer for this again.

Last time I had the dealer did it on my S550 because Arnott told me they didn't have one in stock, I'll have to wait 3 weeks if I had my old spring "core" sent to them for rebuild. Then I'll have to have a rental car for 3 weeks, figure it's cheaper to have "free" dealer loaner car for 10 days (dealer didn't have it in stock either).

$1695 out the door, and I drove a lovely brand new (18 miles) E class for 11 days, three enjoyable trips to Vegas, Santa Barbra, and Sen Diego. I figure I did ok. LOL.

But this thread was as good as it gets. Thank you again.

 

A couple questions please:

1. When you all were replacing your rear air springs, did you also inspect your leveling arms/rods to ensure they weren’t seized up? My understanding is this would affect ride height as well. And if so, anyone have a picture where these rear ones are exactly located?

2. Did you all remove the air reservoir and it’s attached hose when removing the old oem air spring? Or just leave it hanging and tape the end of the hose off (per Arnott)?

thanks

 

Your DIY is the first time I’ve heard of removing the caliper on the brakes in order to replace the air Maddock shocks I’m going to do this job today and I’m hoping that I don’t have to do that

 

Thank you you again for your posts on this subject. I did my rear air struts today. I’m glad that I invested in a quickjack. Made getting under almost pleasant. Also if I were to give a tip to others I found I was able to remove and install the new airstrut without removing the caliper or like I e seen in other videos disassembling other suspension parts.

i used a woodworking clamp in spreader mode and after drilling a hole in the old air strut body I spread the suspension as is there was the same load on the airbag before deflating it. I still had to compress the airstrut as I installed the new one.

 

I want to thank everyone who has contributed to this DIY thread!! I replaced the air springs in my 2011 E350 wagon this weekend and all is terrific.

My two cents -

1. I bought the Arnott air springs from Rockauto.com. Great price, quick delivery.

2. I let the wagon sit overnight which let the leaky left (driver's side) bag collapse. Then jacked it up the next morning. Being generally collapsed this bag came out easily enough.

3. I didn't really have any trouble getting a small 10mm wrench on the air line fittings and disconnecting the lines while the springs were still in place.

4. As noted by another DIY'er - using a jack to push the suspension *down* makes all the difference in the world. I carefully positioned a bottle jack between the stabilizer link and the top of the fender. Make sure to have a solid position, you don't want that to pop loose.

5. On the air spring that was still in good condition I ran into the same problem that someone noted, about not being able to whack the bottom loose with a hammer. Even though I had removed the air line and released the air, there was enough residual air holding the spring in place. I used another bottle jack underneath to push up on the air spring and collapse it. Once it was high enough I easily pried it out of the bottom cradle.

6. I didn't do it, but another DIY'er had a good idea about using a piece of chewing gum - essentially compress the new spring by hand, and put the gum over the air inlet. This would help keep the spring smaller while you position it in place. I did try a piece of electrical tape but kept knocking it off... So I just fought with things for a couple of minutes. Not a big fight.

7. After you remove the brass fittings from the original MB air line setup you simply push the air line into the new springs after they are in place. Very simple. A little scary since you expect something more involved. My new Arnott springs came with a little plastic clip/mount piece that must be for another application, I couldn't find any reason for it on my wagon.

8. I was done in only two hours. Not a big job at all.

9. The wagon is sitting perfect. It had been collapsing after about 4 hours. The last two mornings it has not budged after sitting overnight.

10. I do notice that the new Arnott springs are a shade firmer and it could be the old springs had gotten soft, I don't know. But the ride feels more stable and I'm very pleased.


I really appreciate this community - thanks all!!

 

I can confirm that you dont have to drill a whole on the old air spring. I just loosened the nut on the Valve Block under the rear bumper. All said and dine it is 45 min each as long as you dont get stuck on taking the old air spring out.

 

UPDATE

After getting everything installed and driving around, it appears that the suspension is stuck in sport mode. The ride does not feel any different, but I am not sure what the issue is. Anyone have any issues with the Arnott Rear air springs doing this? The valve block was recently changed at a MB dealership and there is no malfunction warning going on. Also the raise vehicle function works just fine. Any thoughts? Already unplugged battery for a power cycle.

 

Anyone else experiencing this issue after replacing rear airsprings? Stuck in Sport suspension mode, does not switch to comfort.

 

Unrelated to air springs.. these are your damper settings. Easy to replace...expensive parts.

 

Many suggestions before towing? I checked fuses, how do u check relay? They say 12volt but do this as car is on? Unplug it and check or attached?
Please help

 

Swap the relay with another one..example the AC relay and see if that works. If its not kicking on, its either the relay or the compressor.

 

I will try this👍
I tried to google the AC relay? And couldn’t find it. I’m not that experienced with relays, I tried to see which one it wouldn’t need (similar in size) without interfering with starting and running vehicle, would fuel pump to swap be ok because not driving? Sorry prob a dumb question.
thank u for your help!

someone said have to clear codes before the compressor will kick on I’m some situations🤷*♂️

 

Relay did Not work. I changed 40 fuse also. I can’t imagine that the compressor just went out while working on this. I was looking and should I check fused on floor board or rear trunk? This has been the worst repair of my life

 

has to be the compressor then.. you can manually test it by hot wiring it to a battery or use a manual override relay that forces 12v to the compressor

look up the manual relays on this video.

 

Is it just one relay and 40fuse? under the hood? Or take off the panel under it or under floor board passenger? Or anything rear SAM?
Remember the electrical connector to airbag “clip” broke so may not be getting clean connection🤷*♂️
I just before starting another project with this car want to make sure I didn’t do anything wrong.
also I did lower car way low to see if get it to manually fill. Maybe it broke bag?

 

When I read on compressor it says all sides will be lowered. I have to get a new scanner since mine does not run suspension. Debating be autel and I carsoftII?
any other suggestions on fuses to check. I didn’t see the 40 amp under hood unless it’s the one hidden below the main one?